Q: How to paint steam loco white driver tire stripes

[mmagliaro]

If I do decide to paint the white tire stripes on my NP W-5, I was going to do it the way I've always done it.
Namely, laboriously and just eyeballing it.
Lay the engine on its side, paint about 1/3 of the driver, touch some clip leads to rotate the wheels a little,
paint some more, and so on.  Use a fine brush, be careful, and you can do it.  It you get a little
on the tread or the wheel center, you clean that up by gently scratching it off with an Xacto afterward.

Does anyone out there do this a better way?  I'd like to hear from you.

I've toyed with the idea of clamping the brush in something like the Xtra hands jig, getting the engine
on it's side but free so the drivers can turn, and getting the tip of the brush positioned just so, so
that as the driver rotates, the brush rides on the tire. Of course, I'd have to keep apply white paint to the tip
of the brush with a toothpick or something.  Seems like it would never work.  And the driver probably doesn't
rotate true enough when it's loose on its side like that.

Perhaps a super-fine white paint marker?   Might be easier to manage than a fine brush, but I have a feeling it
would be harder to get a good opaque coat of white over the metal from a marker.

Anyway... I open the floor to suggestions.  I'd especially like to hear techniques that you have actually
used with success.

[wazzou]

Your first method is all I've done and I thought the results were satisfactory.

[Cajonpassfan]

If the rim is raised, how about spray painting the wheel white, cleaning the horizontal surfaces and flange, and then brush filling the face with black paint, or neolube? This would need to be done before drivers are installed, of course. Never actually tried this, but I might next time....
Otto K.

[chicken45]

Is it possible to "stencil" them on? You know, mask and spray?

[Lemosteam]

What about pulling the axles out and face dipping them onto a smooth surface like glass with a film of paint or a pad soaked in paint that is not really compressible.  You could use your mill as an arbor to control how far you dip into the paint.

[sizemore]

A nice paintmarker would do the trick. Painting leaves multiple layers of paint visible in photographs.

Run the loco at a slow steady speed, and touch the tire. Then take a papertowl soaked with solvent and place it between the loco and track, just like cleaning treads.

The S.

[prdave]

Never tried, but would a dry transfer decal work ?
-Dave

[peteski]

Never tried, but would a dry transfer decal work ?
-Dave

IMO, it would be way to delicate to be feasible.  Dry transfers use soft waxy glue which scratches off very easily (during wheel cleanings or handling).

[mmagliaro]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.
After considering, I finally decided to just do it the old fashioned way, working it with a fine brush.   
As for seeing multiple layers of paint, well, maybe.  But if you apply two thin coats, I think it's awfully hard to
see any deviation in the surface.   

It's comin' folks...  a few more days to finish detail painting, weathering, lettering, etc, and it'll be finished.

[trainutz]

A method I have used for some time utilizes a drafting drawing pen that has adjustable nibs. Be sure that the tires are free of lube oil. For paint I have always used Floquil white undiluted. Open the nibs to almost the width of the tire facing; dip the pen into the paint perhaps 1/8th of an inch. Then touch the nibs to the rim until the paint begins to flow onto the rim.  Once you have wetted the rim with paint the process gets easier. If the paint begins to dry in the pen wash it in thinner and start over. Needless to say, practice on something other than the object loco until you get a feel for how the pen lays down the paint. 

[mmagliaro]

That is a very inventive idea (the drafting pen).   Perhaps next time... I will try that out.

[garethashenden]

That is a very inventive idea (the drafting pen).   Perhaps next time... I will try that out.

That was going to be my recommendation as well. Another advantage is that drafting compasses are also available making circles and arcs even easier.

[UP4-8-8-4]

What type paint is everybody using as most paints dry's too fast for a smooth finish.

I use "One Shot" Sign Painters bright white enamel thinned with turpentine same as done as pin stripping a car.
I also use the smallest Dagger Pin Striping brush which comes to a very small tip.
Generally apply a bit of paint on a magazine page, then add turpentine a little at a time until you get a nice smooth flow.
Flip flop the brush on another section of the page to rid some of the paint out of it.
The Dagger brush will hold enough paint to do go completely around the driver without stopping, also the stripe will be smooth and covered the first time with no signs of any stopping and starting.
Just be sure you don't apply a lot of paint to the Dagger brush as you'll want just enough for each driver.
Only drawback is that type paint needs to dry for no less than 12 hours.
Good advice is to practice on an old steamer until you get the hang of it, won't take much practice until you're ready to stripe your good ones.

[superturbine]

Ernie (UP 4-8-8-4)
You are a painter and that's the Best advice so far!  Thank

[wazzou]

I've used One Shot but mixed with Floetrol extender.