FVM SD70ACe Lights?

[Leggy]

Curious to know how the wheelbase compares vs the Kato.

[kiwi_bnsf]

That's going a LONG way for ditchlight pads...

Be nice if there were a replacement DCC board for FVM...with function pads...I'm assuming all FVMs (except the Hiawatha use the same board...

Hi Jim,

I have used the Digitrax DZ146IN with my FVM GP60s.

It has the standard plug to connect to the FVM light board plus three wires to drive separate ditch lights.

http://www.digitrax.com/products/mobile-decoders/dz146in/

[wmcbride]

Tim,

Thanks! I don't know how I missed that decoder...

[peteski]

That's going a LONG way for ditchlight pads...

Be nice if there were a replacement DCC board for FVM...with function pads...I'm assuming all FVMs (except the Hiawatha use the same board...

Somehow I don't see that happening after FVM went the way of the plug-n-play 6-pin NEM socked for super-easy easy DCC installs.  To make a new complete PC board decoder replacement would be very unusual.

EDIT: correction

[jereising]

Tim,

Thanks! I don't know how I missed that decoder...

Great catch, Tim.  Suddenly we're not so far away

And Peteski - I can always hope but with Tim's find maybe I won't need to worry anymore.

[jereising]

Working on the GP60M project now; decoders on the way.

The way the light pipes go to the ditch lights is going to make for a super easy install in the original housings - I think.

Anyone interested in a tutorial?  If they work...

[GaryHinshaw]

Anyone interested in a tutorial?  If they work...

Yes, please!

[wmcbride]

Working on the GP60M project now; decoders on the way.

The way the light pipes go to the ditch lights is going to make for a super easy install in the original housings - I think.

Anyone interested in a tutorial?  If they work...

I've ordered a decoder to give it a shot as well. I also have a Lokpilot I can try as an alternate.

A tutorial from you would be great, Jim. (That's how I added all those white LEDs to the initial dim FVM GEVOs.)

Bill McBride

[reinhardtjh]

I've ordered a decoder to give it a shot as well. I also have a Lokpilot I can try as an alternate.

A tutorial from you would be great, Jim. (That's how I added all those white LEDs to the initial dim FVM GEVOs.)

Bill McBride

One thing about using the LokPilot is that if you have units with LokSound decoders, there is a CV setting to get them the same startup delay the sound units have for the loco's startup routine so silent and sound units will match up when starting without fiddling with the momentum or starting voltages.

The LokPilot Micros have the extra function pads. The trick is you have to solder to them and those Digitrax units already have the wires attached.  I guess it comes down to how you feel about your small part soldering skills because those pads are small!!

Information is on pages 12 and 15 of the LokPilot manual on the ESU web site http://www.esu.eu/en/downloads/instruction-manuals/digital-decoders/ (Can't get a direct link).

Price difference between the two is only a few dollars (at MBKleins)

Edit:  After re-reading the thread I don't know how I got the idea someone was using LokSound sound decoders also in these... Oops.  Well the info is still correct, just probably not relevant.   

[jereising]

No pix yet but I can tell you it's gonna fly - you can slip an 0402 right into the ditch light housing!  I've got the first two mounted and glued in place, next is putting the housing plate back onto the deck.  This is gonna be sweet!

[jereising]

OK, here's a tease...

[wmcbride]

Quite the difference.

I first saw your photo over on Trainboard.

I had originally though about cutting the light pipe and adding an SMD to the lower part to run the ditch lights but I wondered if it be wasted effort as the bends in the light pipe (as someone, maybe Peteski, mentioned a long while ago) may be the problem.

[jereising]

Quite the difference.

I first saw your photo over on Trainboard.

I had originally though about cutting the light pipe and adding an SMD to the lower part to run the ditch lights but I wondered if it be wasted effort as the bends in the light pipe (as someone, maybe Peteski, mentioned a long while ago) may be the problem.

I think that's exactly the problem.  It's a unique design, and I'm glad they tried it even if it didn't work.  Sure made it easy to put the LEDs in and run the wires!

[wmcbride]

I was looking at the FVM SD70ACe light pipes this afternoon and they seem to be curved like Kato's and not a series of what appear to be relatively straight pieces joined at angles as on the GP60Ms.

[peteski]

I was looking at the FVM SD70ACe light pipes this afternoon and they seem to be curved like Kato's and not a series of what appear to be relatively straight pieces joined at angles as on the GP60Ms.

Yes, photons "leak out" from any sharp bends in the light pipes (conduits).    But the photons also escape throughout the length of those light pipes. So, the longer is the light pipe, the less light will get to the end.

The light pipes (I don't know what is the correct term buy that sounds good) are just molded from clear plastic. They are quite lossy as far as light transmission goes.  The "real" fiber optics have center core and and a jacket (both made from clear materials with different refractive index).  That construction prevents much more light from escaping along the length of the fiber.

Having the light source (LED) directly in the lamp housing (or behind a short straight piece of fiber optic) is the best solution.