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Both hoods slope slightly towards the ends, so there is less clearance the farther you go away from the center. While designing the board I mounted a blank board on the chassis and then I pushed a decoder in under the hood until it jammed. Then I backed it out slightly (to leave a tiny bit of clearance. I already filed down the PC board mounting posts on the chassis to mount the PC board as close to the chassis as possible. I will revisit this while making the 2nd batch of these boards, but I suspect that unless I use thinner decoder, I won't be able to fully move it under the hood.
Next was the decoder conversion. I like clean installs, so I designed and etched a printed circuit board to replace the factory installed decoder. It will hold the DZ125, new warm-white LEDs, the over-current protector for the motor, and the current limiting resistors for the LEDs. I originally thought of eliminating the over-current protector (the yellow disc), but if Bachmann bothered to use it to protect the small motor, I didn't want to take any chances either. This is the new DCC board next to the original Bachmann decoder. It is amazing how many components there are on the very basic Bachmann decoder, and how large it is compared to the DZ125 (which has much more advanced capabilities).Here is the new decoder attached (by the original screws) the the frame. I had to file down the screw posts on the frame slightly to give me enough clearance for the decoder and the LEDs.
I'm an electrical novice, but I want to try to etch my own board for my 44 tonner, and for my S4. From what I read so far, I can draw out the board and print it on a transparency using a laser printer. I can then use an iron to transfer the ink over to the new board. Where do I find the current limiting resistors, and how do I determine which ones I need? I wouldn't mind picking up a few of those LEDs too!Thanks!
Piperguy:The PC board shown in this writeup was hand-drawn directly on the copper-clad PC board using a technical pen and Testors enamel. But you are correct, there are iron-on methods for producing etch masks on PC boards. I have never used that method. If you do some online searches you will find several makers of such etching systems. I recommended http://www.pcbfx.com/ to one of the members here and he told me that the system worked great.This reminds me that one of these days I have to get back to this project as I have few TRW members waiting for some of those PC boards from me.
That's a really cool system! I'll look into it. What about the resistors? Which ones did you use for the 44 tonnor? How would I determine which resistors to use for the Bachman S4? Thanks for your help!
For those of us without a supply of 30 cent Testors ( ), I wonder if nail polish would work?
I then carefully assembled the coupler and the spring in the coupler box. This was a bit of a pain, but I finally managed.
jmlaboda and Reinhardt, what will you do to your shells to make 65 ton GE's?
Mostly just painting it the right number. If you compare dimensions between the 44 and 65 ton models you will find they are within inches of each other in some places and the same in others. The most noticeable difference other than the doors and vents is that the 65-ton has a thicker decking. I think the weight difference is nearly all in ballast comprising a the thicker deck.65-ton:44-ton: