Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build

[up1950s]

As Dave pointed out .



Looks like I could file that section into shape , is it meaty enough there to do so , or will I need to under-fill ...... room to do so ?

[superturbine]

Richie, the picture you are referencing was the starting point boiler.  No profiling or other modifications have been done.
But as Adam and you stated, the boiler profile is a little off.  I am hoping that once boiler bands are scribed in the profile will look completely correct.  The reason for the current profile is that the boiler needs to be about this thick to clear the motor.

[superturbine]

Hey Guys,

I just want to say I truly appreciate the comments, but doubt I am worthy.

THANK YOU!

Right now I am on the tedious task of building the smoke box door, archer rivets are always fun

Oh, and as far as sleep goes, I don't get much when I go on a building binge.  You can ask Loren Perry about that!  One time in the middle of a build he sent me pictures and I wrote back asking why a biker in one of his scene was naked!!  I knew at that point I needed more sleep! ..... Pretty much an embarrassing story!

[RWCJr]

Jason, you have another beautiful model off to a fast start. Thanks for taking the additional time shooting and posting "in-progress" photos.
Robert

[superturbine]

Thank you Robert!

Day 2

The engine is now up and running with a decoder installed.  Body work today included the smoke box door, rear cab roof overhang re-profiled, pilot work and steam pipes added to the cylinders.
In regards to the cab roof overhang not being correct.  I have a decent repair method.  I use tap installed over the cab room making sure all air pockets are out.  Then I use gap filling super glue on the end of a small flat screwdriver to install the glue on the tap to form the new profile I want.  To set it up I hit the super glue with kicker. And then add additional shape with a blade. It makes a strong new cab roof extension which will stand up to abuse.  See last picture for profile change (btw the primer is still wet in the picture).

Here is the smoke box door with archer rivets being added.  I love adding archer rivets in a arc

Details of the front pilot, Pump installed with shield and walkway over the pumps.

To me, with additional details added such are scribed boiler jacketing and the bell, the profile looks correct.


Jason Smith
Tomball Locomotive Works

[superturbine]

Thanks for the Hydrospan link. It seems a better way to do things than Hydroshrink. They recommend urethane molds, but I note you are using Alumilite. Will other clay or putty work?

Pete is correct, Hydro shrink is just repackaged hydospan 400.  As for the alumilite I only use it for a small press on casting like coping a dome.  In general I always silpak for my silicon and urethane.

[superturbine]

Hey, is that smokebox front a separate casting that you are applying detail to, or did it start as a round piece
of plastic?

Hey Max,

The smoke box face started as round plastic. Having a wide variety of molds   I cut and carefully sanded the small door off of a Niagara casting, which is pretty close, then secured the door to the smoke box face and have now added rivet details.

As for scratch building....  you win that contest!!! 

[Chris333]

Kind of reminds me of a hippo. Did UP use them for switching? I know they had some one off equipment,  but I haven't seen this one before.

[up1950s]

I am thinking that this was started earlier than yesterday , and progress shots were taken . Then Jason yesterday started to feed us them in segments Friday and Saturday . It's either that or his heart beats like a 180 lb hummingbird . Looking more like Bullwinkle every few hours .

[up1950s]

Kind of reminds me of a hippo. Did UP use them for switching? I know they had some one off equipment,  but I haven't seen this one before.

They were the predecessors of the early small Challengers in drag freight . 

[up1950s]

Found this on the web , I am pretty sure this is the one I painted and then sold in 1995 . What a hoot .

http://www.brasstrains.com/classic/Product/Detail/039461/HO-Sunset-UP-Union-Pacific-Bull-Moose-2-8-8-0-SAC-Articulated-3518

[mmagliaro]

Archer rivets in an arc:

This is hilarious, Jason.  I was just doing that TODAY on the curved bunker ends on my project.  Previously, I did it
by just applying 2 or 3 rivets at a time (little strips), and making tiny cuts in the film with a SHARP Xacto as
the decal set so I could keep them in an arc. 

Yours look fine on your smokebox front, by the way.

But today, I hit upon an easier way (maybe you did this; I don't know).
I can put at least a whole 1/4 of a circle on at once.  The rivets are in a pretty straight line, completely wrong.  Not to worry.
As they start to stick a little, I put a brush of Solvaset over them.  Yes, you are not supposed to touch a decal
after you put the Solvaset on, because the decal film gets very mushy and you can ruin the decal.
But these things are just little hard blobs on a film.  It worked out great.  As the film JUST starts to get mushy,
you can easily nudge each little rivet up into place (say, with the point of a toothpick) around the circle.
I was able to do a whole semicircle in just two sections and much faster than I have before.  You have to poke it
gently right after putting on the Solvaset so you find the precise moment when the film starts to let you
move the rivets around, and then work a little quickly, but you don't have to be in a panic.

Your project is coming along amazingly fast, of course!
I think the profile fix you did in the center of the boiler looks good, by the way!

[robert3985]

Archer rivets in an arc:

This is hilarious, Jason.  I was just doing that TODAY on the curved bunker ends on my project.  Previously, I did it
by just applying 2 or 3 rivets at a time (little strips), and making tiny cuts in the film with a SHARP Xacto as
the decal set so I could keep them in an arc.
 
I can put at least a whole 1/4 of a circle on at once.  The rivets are in a pretty straight line, completely wrong.  Not to worry.
As they start to stick a little, I put a brush of Solvaset over them.  Yes, you are not supposed to touch a decal
after you put the Solvaset on, because the decal film gets very mushy and you can ruin the decal.
But these things are just little hard blobs on a film.  It worked out great.  As the film JUST starts to get mushy,
you can easily nudge each little rivet up into place (say, with the point of a toothpick) around the circle.
I was able to do a whole semicircle in just two sections and much faster than I have before.  You have to poke it
gently right after putting on the Solvaset so you find the precise moment when the film starts to let you
move the rivets around, and then work a little quickly, but you don't have to be in a panic.

Wow!  Thanks Max for that pointer!  I've had a helluva time doing arced rivet lines with the Archer rivets.  I'll be sure to use your method on the next project!

Jason, most excellent as usual.  One of these days soon I'll become a customer as you've got several engine conversions I really need for my Ogden roundhouse.  Can't wait for the conclusion of this project....

[superturbine]

Max,
luckily that's exactly what I did  to install the archer rivets, I'd bet I would really complain otherwise!!!

[draskouasshat]

looking great jason. Ive got mine notched down and thats about it.