The LIRR Industrial Service, Inc. shelf layout

[Lemosteam]

Little bit of work on the LIRR IS today.  Added road crossings for my intended single-lane two track roads.

Here are the intended roadways:

[Lemosteam]

Added some transition pieces using long door shims up to the automobile side of the LIRR IS bridge and down to grade.
 

[Lemosteam]

This weekend, I designed most of a smaller icing facility for the Long Island Railroad Indusrial Service (my layout). It is based loosely on the one in Huntington, PA (pictured below). I have printed the parts and fit them in the scene. I have the ability to add one more length, but I am still not sure if I will. A PRR 44 Tonner pulls reefers along the ice loading dock, while a GG1 pulls a string of P70’s on the elevated line with catenary overhead.

[Lemosteam]

The main icing facility is almost complete, just need to weather the decking and main icehouse. I decided to add two extensions to the concrete supports, I’m glad I did.

Here is the main icehouse:





Adding the icehouse deck and platform decking.





The platform in place on the layout extension. I still need to add the filler foam and screw heads under the pillars for the magnets to grab underneath.

[Lemosteam]

This weekend I printed and painted the icing facility’s ice conveyor. I plan on adding strips of 4000 grit sandpaper up and back into the lower icehouse. Just need to sand the roof, install corrugated roofing, paint and weather the lower icehouse.

Also picked up two era Ice trucks for deliveries. Thinking of digging a concrete dock ramp into the foam for easy unloading into the lower ice house.

[Lemosteam]

More on the never ending Icing platform saga. Today, I mounted the screws for the platform pillars’ magnets, punched holes for the conveyor structure, and finished a loading ramp for the lower icehouse dock.











Here is the loading ramp before planting:





And after planting:









Also I cleaned up and prepped the ramps to the roadway bridge over the channel. Just need some paint.

[Lemosteam]

Started finishing some structures for the LIRR IS and tested a white Indian Ink mortar in the bricks. These are Walthers parklane towers.



This one was kitbashed for some two bedroom apartments on the right side of the entry.



This one is normal.



Here they will be magnetized to the layout. Maybe some lighting later.

[chuck geiger]

Great build!

[Lemosteam]

Thanks Chuck! I am enjoying you layout progress too!

Today, I added some lighting to my two apartment flats.

First I added some fiber pitch filaments for the stairway platform lighting after heat bulging the ends and heat bending them 90 degrees on the very ends. Note the black glue holing them in place. I bought black hot melt glue sticks from Hobby Lobby, and I am finding lots of uses as a light seep blocker where lighting is concerned.



After I routed the four strands, I shrink wrapped them together, and heat bulged all four, for improved light pickup.



Next I made a little 3v battery holder to test the LED’s and the lights. The LED on the holder is from a battery operated Christmas strand of 0402’s encased in blobs of resin.



Here is a shot of the platform lights. The 3v battery is not very bright, but the LED will be much brighter after I use a wall ward and appropriate resistors.



On the back of the grey apartments, I decided to light the first floor apartment by encasing the room in styrene, and adding an 0201 LED in a hole in the ceiling, centered on the large window. I also added a divider between the two windows before I buttoned up the back. Not shown is aluminum duct tape over the white styrene to eliminate bleed.



Here is the corner apartment dweller who will later be looking out under the elevated trusses at the back of the hot rod garage.



A dark pic with the apartment lit. Note this is a single 0201 LED on 3 volts! Note the divider bleed allows just a bit of light into the next room seen through the small window on the right.

[peteski]

That's pretty good John.  IMO, you actually don't want them too bright to look realistic in the dark. No nuclear glow from the windows. 

Also for accuracy, I have never encountered those Christmas ligths LED strings using 0201 size LEDs. If these are the same Walmart ones we discussed several years ago (and I ended up buying some based on your recommendations), they use 0603 size LEDs, which are 2 sizes larger than 0201.

0201 LEDs are really tiny, with footprint of only 0.020" x 0.010". 0603 are 0.060" x 0.030".

[Lemosteam]

That's pretty good John.  IMO, you actually don't want them too bright to look realistic in the dark. No nuclear glow from the windows. 

Also for accuracy, I have never encountered those Christmas ligths LED strings using 0201 size LEDs. If these are the same Walmart ones we discussed several years ago (and I ended up buying some based on your recommendations), they use 0603 size LEDs, which are 2 sizes larger than 0201.

0201 LEDs are really tiny, with footprint of only 0.020" x 0.010". 0603 are 0.060" x 0.030".

I am using both sizes here. I have pre wired 0201 for the light in the apartment and 0402 Christmas ones (the same ones we discussed) for the fiber optics. There are no resistors yet on either. Only a straight 3 volts.

I think the apartment is still a bit too bright at 3v, and that one is the 0201.

[Cajonpassfan]

Nice and gritty, John, but that vertical seam bugs. Why not run the downspout over it? Or you have other plans?
Otto

[Lemosteam]

Hi Otto, Many brick walls have expansion joints so the walls aren’t too long. The joint where the added downspout is, is worse than that. 3 foot rule applies. I may cut a groove in there and use panel liner to simulate the expansion joint.

Barely visible here at 18”:

[peteski]

I am using both sizes here. I have pre wired 0201 for the light in the apartment and 0402 Christmas ones (the same ones we discussed) for the fiber optics.

As I mentioned in my last post, those Christmas lights use 0603, not 0402 size LEDs.  I know that in this particular application the size doesn't matter, but I'm being anal - sorry, can't help myself.

Direct 3V will make them glow rather bright. As you mentioned, best to use additional current limiting resistors.  White LEDs are very efficient and will emit quite a bit of light, even at very low currents.

[peteski]

I have not seen any brick buildings that have walls with expansion joints (brick interlock for strrength), but I can't say that they don't exist.  I wonder what then keeps the wall together as a single wall?