ER Models Sharknose motor help

[CodyO]

I have 4 ER models Sharknoses dressed in PRR problem is 2 run so painfully slow I can't use them 10 smph max
The other A/B set also isn't fast topping out at 30smph
All 4 are hard wired with Digitrax DZ123's in them I've check all my CVs and there not causing this

so I was thinking of remotoring the 4 unit set has anyone done this before or any ideas on how to improve the speed of these models?

[Alwyn Cutmore]

Cody,

I am going to replace the mechs on mine with RS3s. Cannot cop the noise and the click click from split gears.

Regards

Al

[eric220]

I've got several of these that have similar problems.  I can get my fastest to top out after warming up at 34 SMPH.  I know that the PRR shells were done fairly early in the run, and I was wondering if swapping out new RF-16 mechs might help.

[Hornwrecker]

I've got two A-B sets (single and five stripe) and luckily they run together and are quiet.  I got them from a friend who has about a dozen sets, and I suspect that he mixed and matched them for me.  I'll ask him about it, since he also does some tweaking  of the mechs, to get them to run better.

 I bought some Red Caboose short shank dummy couplers to covert them to run as an ABBA.  Don't want to assemble all those MT ones that I bought if they're going to stay together for coal drags.

[Carolina Northern]

I'm in the process of fitting LifeLike FA2 chassis into my Sharks.
I remembered someone on one of the boards talking about doing this some years ago - can't find the post - so I jumped in.
Needs a little trimming, but pulls like crazy. I'm at the test fitting stage and think I've trimmed enough for a good fit.
I have to finish cleaning the chassis after cutting and reassemble to try it.
I want to fit some body mounted couplers into the body while I have it apart - may be a while before they run again.

[CodyO]

What about maybe a motor from NWSL or the motorman?
Or maybe a change of gearing? There not really loud just slow!

[victor miranda]

hi CodyO,

mechanical and electrical issues cause your problem.

If you want to fix the problem you are going to be re-assembling the mechanism a few times at least.
the quickest fix is to buy more chassis.
test them for natural speed matching.

your slow locos...
get the mechanism apart look for snug bearings, pivots, and hairballs.
anything that can slow down a loco.  clean the motor, including the commutator plates
bridged comm. plates can eat a lot of power and that will slow the mechanism.
after you reassemble the cleaned and loosened parts into the mechanism
run it. If you get good speed you are done.
If you don't...  try to find where the power is getting lost.
for running alone the motor should not get even warm and definitely not hot.
motor hot is a bind on the motor shaft.  bearings universal joint not universaling.

if the motor is ok then you have a bind near the drivers OR
an electrical problem like a burnt lighting diode or such.

I hate to say this but pull the decoder if you can if you are at this point
and still have no clear indicator of the cause of the 'slows'

luck.
victor

[Hornwrecker]

I wish all my freight diesels ran this slow, especially the switchers.

[eric220]

I wish all my freight diesels ran this slow, especially the switchers.

I've had that thought as well.  If these locos are for drags, do we really need them to go faster than 34 SMPH?

[DKS]

I have a bunch of sharks and they all creep along at wonderful switcher speeds. I believe this is inherent in the mechanism and not some sort of fault.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

A very easy fix would be to replace those 5 pole motors with Bachmann 3 pole counterparts. they are available from virtually any split frame Bachmann engine such as the F9 that is available on eBay for next to nothing.

If I remember correctly, the F9 uses plastic universals that can be pulled very easilly.

[Alwyn Cutmore]

I'm in the process of fitting LifeLike FA2 chassis into my Sharks.

Are these the split frame FA2s or the old plastic frame model. Never gave that a thought.

Regards

Al

[CodyO]

That's for the advice guys ill have to pull them apart and look at them again

I'd like to try and get them up to 50smph just to get some juice out of them
20smph is a bit too slow for me personality

[Carolina Northern]

I used the old Atlas/Kato RS-3 and the plastic frame FA-2 on my V-line shells. I suppose I could have used the updated Atlas mechs on these.
I seem to remember that the V-line was originally designed for the old - old FA-2 chassis that everybody sold for a while, so I tried the new one.

I'm using the split frame. They're not as easy to find, but I'm working on getting all my locos to have similar mechs.
I've needed to do a little trimming to make it fit, but it was only a few minutes work.
I have to clean out all the metal dust and reassemble the mech.

My modelling is done in short sessions whenever I can find time, so it might be a whlie before it's finished.

[NYC1956]

Before you attempt replacing motors, check this:
The ER Sharknose are really excellent mechanisms, they are geared for slow speed. That extra gearing does make them a little noisier than similar diesels.
The motors are very good - they have flywheels and have been balanced at the factory.
The biggest weakness in the design is the poor contact wipers. It is easy for them to get deformed or dirty.
When they first came out I notified Al Muniz, the importer, of two problem areas. They were overlubed with that gummy white grease. They also had those white nylon gears that are prone to shrinking, then cracking. Al took steps to correct this and some Sharks were delivered with the black acetyl plastic gears.

I recommend you just give yours a good cleaning and re-lube with quality plastic-compatible lubes. Check the gears. If they are black, you should be fine. If they are white, inspect for cracks. If they are cracked it will be necessary to find replacements to prevent binding of the mechanism. We may have to commission NWSL to offer replacement gears unless Bachmann can supply proper replacements (since they picked up the model).