Shapeways FM switchers: Cleaning FUD

[Lemosteam]

Bustin' this one out again.

Last post was 2012 and there have been some others, but @katfudgirl has missed it all I'm sure! 

Wonder what became of her cleaning tests, etc?

Missing DKS for sure.

Since the last post FXD is now a higher resolution printing and HDA is another option (which i personally do not care for).

Do we all now agree that Bestine is the "Best" cleaning solution or have others discovered more ways?

Edit- removed bad idea!  LOL.

Please note that In all of my printed parts, ALL have still needed further cleaning/scraping/priming after cleaning.

In another thread I demonstrated how porous the parts are, and filling/soaking or brushing on clear finishes or using reduces the overall number of topcoats necessary, maybe saving some good paint in the process.

I have not tried Mr. Surfacer yet, but some folks out there have and it seems to have a positive effect.

FUD/FXD can be stained using Neolube for some of those under-chassis detail parts that really don't need paint.

What else has been discovered/accomplished with respect to cleaning and finishing FUD and FXD?

[sd45elect2000]

I use Bestine and I also have the same ultrasonic Cleaner that you have. I have thought of using the Bestine in the cleaner but since it already has a low flash point I discarded the idea. I think you are getting close to a flash fire if you are heating the bestine , I wouldn't risk it. I just have to be a little more patient and let the Bestine work.

Randy

[C855B]

Wellllllllll... I wouldn't use flammables in an ultrasonic cleaner, and Bestine is on the "Oh, crap!" end of the flammable scale. The warning the cleaners come with isn't one of those lawyer things you can ignore, it's an honest problem. Ultrasonics clean by cavitation, so you basically what you have is a very efficient carburetor saturating a highly flammable liquid with oxygen. Boom.

If you still want to see if the ultrasonic cleaner does a better job, use diluted Goo Gone.

[bbussey]

Bestine works just fine without agitation. I let parts soak for 24 hours in a glass container. That works in 95% of the cases. For the remaining 5%, I let the parts soak for another 24 hours, and repeat if necessary. I've never had an issue with Bestine not working, and I've soaked a lot of parts.

[Lemosteam]

Bestine works just fine without agitation. I let parts soak for 24 hours in a glass container. That works in 95% of the cases. For the remaining 5%, I let the parts soak for another 24 hours, and repeat if necessary. I've never had an issue with Bestine not working, and I've soaked a lot of parts.

I dunno- I've never seen residual like that by just soaking.

[Lemosteam]

Wellllllllll... I wouldn't use flammables in an ultrasonic cleaner, and Bestine is on the "Oh, crap!" end of the flammable scale. The warning the cleaners come with isn't one of those lawyer things you can ignore, it's an honest problem. Ultrasonics clean by cavitation, so you basically what you have is a very efficient carburetor saturating a highly flammable liquid with oxygen. Boom.

If you still want to see if the ultrasonic cleaner does a better job, use diluted Goo Gone.

@C855B and @sd45elect2000 Flash point info understood, removed the offending portion of the post.

So what about my other questions?

[C855B]

I mentioned the Goo Gone. There's one fellow I correspond with who does a lot of FUD/FXD, and Bestine/heptane is very hard to obtain where he is. He uses Goo Gone, and scrubs it.

I used Tamiya gray surfacing primer on one project, and it filled-in too much detail. Haven't tried the white primer which is supposedly less filling (tastes great!). I also tried Scalecoat I as a primer and pore filler. It took nearly three days to dry, so scratch that one. I'm currently using a couple of coats of Tru-Scale white as a primer and seem to get good results. The acetone base solvent appears to penetrate the material well for sealing, and there's enough body to it to help with the striations.

[bbussey]

I dunno- I've never seen residual like that by just soaking.

Gotta be patient and  let it soak, in a sealed glass container.  The more fresh the Bestine the better, but it lasts a long time before it slows down.

[C855B]

I've had great results recovering used Bestine in the fridge. Wax precipitates right out.

[Lemosteam]

OK gonna try the Goo Gone- flash point is 185 deg F vs. 20 deg F  for the Bestine!

On my roofs after light sanding, 400 grit) I have use Tamiya TS6 with (I think) nice results after 5-6 light coats and dullcote over that:

[sd45elect2000]

I like the results I got on my two Electroliners. Lots of priming and sanding with micromesh. I just use the Bestine soak, sometimes for a week. I recover the Bestine by chilling it and then straining it with coffee filter.

[Hornwrecker]

Off topic Bestine side branch:  Since I know that there are a few brass players on TRW, I'll relate another used for it.  Last year as I was getting my horns ready for the upcoming concert season, I found my trusty old, 1938 Kruspe's valves were really sluggish.  Not wanting to pull and restring the rotary valves, I looked around the shop for ideas, resting upon the  can of Bestine.  I pulled the valve and change valve slides, put a few drops of heptane into each, depressed the keys for a minute or so, and the valves were as fast as they ever were.  This has now become a regular, yearly "tune-up" procedure for each of my horns.  Works just as well for piston valves; recently had an old Paris-Selmer trumpet in the shop for a minor repair, when the client came to pick it up, he said "What did you do to the valves? They've never been this fast."

[C855B]

(Thanks, Bob! Much appreciated! Who'd a thunk? My poor, neglected brass collection is mostly sitting fallow since I got serious about oboe. So for the one or two times a year I get the brass out, this will be perfect to free the pistons and rotors. ... "Free the Rotors!" I see a T-shirt in the making. )