With a show at the Toy and Model Train Expo on March 1 & 2 at the Santa Clara Convention Center
http://www.trainexpo.org/and in an effort to improve operations, I'm building a new insert for Effett Yard.
Old Insert: 2', 15-degree with single track off to Staging Yard O' Necessity (or a branch):
The main issue wasn't backing trains in but having all trains enter the layout in the same direction, especially when that side of the layout was already crowded.
New insert: 3', 30-deg with a wye to staging / branch:
The wye is a separate section to avoid big bulky and because sometimes we don't need it.
Slightly separate note, I'm building two of each section (for inverting and sandwiching between endplates), with the other module adding some needed industries, perhaps something like:
A bit over-packed on purpose: will decide actual plan after finishing the Effett insert.
Started building the module (Effett Yard is flat so no need of foam) and to ensure the ply was flat during construction I screwed two metal shelving channels on top:
Then when building the second one (with ply base lowered 1" for foam) I realized I could place one underneath [Duh] and it'd make space for wires as well:
The channel does make the section ram-rod stiff and flat, but it also effectively eliminates the space for Bullfrogs or other switch machines without some actuating cable action.
For the trapezoidal section I used an 1"-wide strip of ripped ply for the same effect (seen here before cross supports installed):
Will look like this when all assembled and inserted:
The two notches at the end are to allow the clamps to reach up to secure the Staging Yard O' Necessity, which is framed with 1"x2"s (not a standard module).
Clamped the insert between the Effett Yard sections and GorillaGlued the American Tie & Timber GapMasters at the end:
http://www.americantieandtimber.com/4.htmlAdjusted the insert until ALL tracks on insert will be level with existing Effett Yard tracks, then drilled alignment pin holes underneath (same holes double for attaching protective endplates), then fit & installed track:
A bit more difficult than starting from scratch, as you can't lay track over the gap and then cut, or use the mirror trick.
Here you must line it up by eye and carefully trim rail to fit both ends and with smooth curve:
Caulk allows enough working time so you can run a long flatcar over the section back and forth before soldering to identify any kinks or bad angles.
I think it worked out pretty well.
Today I'll mock up the wye tracks to determine the turnout templates.
The "top" can be a normal wye but the two leads will probably be custom asymmetric.
Thanks for looking.