Author Topic: Weekend Update 9/2/12  (Read 21396 times)

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Bsklarski

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #75 on: September 03, 2012, 02:43:46 PM »
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DavidGray, Pardon me if it has been told already, what are the length and width of the layout?
Brian Sklarski
Engineer, New England Central Railroad

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Boston-Maine-Conn-River-Line/173358446076160

DKS

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #76 on: September 03, 2012, 03:00:43 PM »
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DavidGray, Pardon me if it has been told already, what are the length and width of the layout?

You can see the genesis and revisions of his plan here: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=24011.0

PAL_Houston

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #77 on: September 03, 2012, 04:08:10 PM »
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...
Long story short.... I paid $425 for $4000 worth of senery materials  :D

Ballast, Static grass, flocking, trees, armatures, ground foam, heat guns...everything! I can't believe this guy was even stocking this much stuff! So here's a few pics of the haul. The picture of the stuff on the table is about half of the loose stuff I got... I still have to go through it all to see what I can use and what I can sell but I think I'll be able to use about 70% of the stuff!!!!!!

...
JACKPOT!!!!!!!


Mike Maisonneuve
Modeling the Northern Alberta Railways' Peace River subdivision in N scale
http://nscalenar.blogspot.ca/



Nice bridge!  But that deal you got on scenery stuff is incredible!!

You must be livin' right! :D
Regards,
Paul

davidgray1974

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #78 on: September 03, 2012, 04:16:44 PM »
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You can see the genesis and revisions of his plan here: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=24011.0
By the way Dave, thank you again for all your help in refining the layout plan.   :D  Can't say enough for what you do for everyone on here.

Modeling the L&N, well at least a few times a year.

davidgray1974

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #79 on: September 03, 2012, 04:23:29 PM »
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Really like the pull out tray for the Digitrax throttle.  I think this is a great way to keep it stored away.  Will definately use this idea on my layout.

Modeling the L&N, well at least a few times a year.

davidgray1974

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #80 on: September 03, 2012, 04:26:31 PM »
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Here's the transformer at the crossovers proper.  Got to have some way to power the switches and light the signals!




Love all the little additions you bring to this scene.  Always enjoy your layout progress shots.

Modeling the L&N, well at least a few times a year.

robert3985

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #81 on: September 03, 2012, 04:54:12 PM »
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Robert,

Very nice turnout work.  I have a few more questions to follow up on Ed's if I may.  To make my questions more clear, I annotated one of your photos and re-posted it here - I hope you don't object:



My questions:

1. Is the material indicated by the green arrow simply the end of the brass wire filed to shape, or is this somehow one of Andy's throw-bar clips reshaped?

2. Do you solder the actuating throw-bar (blue arrow) to the points, or let them pivot along the point web?

3. Have you ever had a problem with a PC throw-bar bridging a gap in a head tie (red oval) causing a short?

I have done a similar build using Andy's solderable clips, as shown, e.g. in the 2nd photo of this post.  I like your (and his) idea of having a solid mechanical connection to the point base through a hole, but I couldn't make it work with the pre-drilled point holes (they are too far from the point tips) and I don't have the tools to easily drill my own.  (By the way, have you been able to drill holes in the base of code 40 rail?)  I ended up relying on a soldered connection for this throw-bar, including a small fillet where the point clip touches the point.  Since there is no torsional stress on this joint, and very little stress during actuation (since the actuating throw-bar carries most of the load by pushing directly on the point web) they *should* be pretty durable - and they seem to be - but only time will tell....

Thanks,
Gary

Gary,

No, I don't mind at all.  Posting photos and explaining what I'm doing is my way of getting a hopefully better way of making turnouts made public and overcoming some common problems that exist with nearly every one made.

Firstly, I am not using Andy's etched throwbars.  What you see in the photo are just the .015" brass rods filed a little to shape after they're installed. I just take a LITTLE off of them.  I don't want to compromise their durability.

Secondly, I am careful to NOT solder the brass rod to the points, or the points to the PCB tie under the throwbars.  I drill .015" holes through the rail foots (feet) at appropriate points.  I have found that Andy's holes can be used sometimes if I clip off a lot of the pointy end of the points, but only as the second set of holes furthest from the headblocks towards the frog.  I still have to drill the first set of holes, positioned midway between the headblocks.

I want there to be a "hinge" at both ends of the closure rails.  An easy way to ensure that solder does not flow into the hole is to coat the PCB tie under the rail (and surrounding the hole in the PCB tie) with simply pencil graphite.  I just use a pointy #2 pencil to do this.

I carefully position the points where I want them to be as far as the point gap is concerned, and use the holes in the rails as guides to drill matching holes through the PCB tie I'll solder my .015" brass rod "throwbars" to.  To make it easier, I leave the PCB portion of the throwbar long so it sticks out from under the rails enough to be taped to my workbench (I trim them to proper length after the holes are drilled and dressed).  I also stick a spare .015" piece of wire into the first hole (through both the hole in the point rail and the hole in the PCB tie underneath it) I've drilled into the PCB tie under the point rail to hold the point and PCB tie in proper relationship to drill the second hole. 

Make sure you "dress" the holes you've drilled into the PCB ties with a significantly larger bit to remove any burrs from around the holes, both tops and bottoms.

Thirdly, I have not had a problem with the copper cladding making a short across the throwbar and headblocks.  However, I HAVE had, in the past, a tiny, loose shard of copper bridge gaps in my PCB ties.  With DC it always went up in flash and a puff of smoke.  I'm thinking with DCC it wouldn't do that, but it hasn't happened since I converted to DCC.

I always check for continuity and shorts with my multimeter before I sock my turnouts down, and I always make sure that I file the edges of my headblock ties and the throwbar tie to get rid of rough edges or shards of copper bridging gaps.  I also give all of my trackwork a coat of Krylon flat black to give the PCB ties, solder joints, Delrin and Styrene ties and the sides of the rails a common base coat to paint and weather.  This coat also forms an insulative layer to further ensure no shorts or loose copper shards.

Drilling small holes is very easy and doesn't require expensive special tools.  It's especially easy on brass and nickel silver and this is how I do it.

You'll need a new, SHARP drill bit, a little 30 weight oil (or beeswax), a sharp center punch (I use a special carbide rod I've ground to a sharp, precise point) or a sharp dental pick to put a starting dimple in the foot of the rail near the web.

You'll also need a small chuck that goes down to 0 (zero), or a quality pin vice that will allow you to chuck the rear of it into a cordless drill or screwdriver.

And, you'll need the smallest cordless drill or cordless screwdriver you can find with a 1/4" chuck.

First, locate the hole you're going to drill by positioning and cutting the point rail to the proper length.  Use your dental pick or center punch to put a "dimple" in exactly the correct spot on the foot of the rail, close to the rail web.

Then, chuck up your new, sharp drill bit so that only about 1/4" of it is sticking out of the chuck.  Chuck your little "0" chuck, or your precision pin vice into your cordless drill or screwdriver, and put a little oil or beeswax on the tip of the drill bit.

Next, position the point of your drill bit onto the "dimple" you've made on the foot of the rail.  You'll be able to feel if the dimple is holding the tip in place.  If it isn't, then use your dental pick or center punch and press more firmly this time.

Position the tip of your drill bit again on the dimple and see if it holds the bit.  If it does, take the tip of the drill bit off of the dimple and, using your cordless screwdriver, start spinning it slowly (SLOWLY...between 10 and 5 revolutions per second), and place it on the dimple and press very gently.

You should see a curl of nickel silver coming off the point of the bit.  It will take about ten seconds for it to go through the foot of the rail.  Don't press too hard.

"Dress" the hole with another drill bit that's about .060" by chucking it up in another pin vice (if you have one) and spinning it on the hole you've just drilled.  Do this gently as you want to remove just the burrs.

VOILA!...you're done.

You can actually do this without a cordless drill or screwdriver just by using the pin vice, but it takes a lot longer.

NEVER use a variable speed Dremel or equivalent rotary grinder as the slowest speed they handle is 3,000 RPM, which will "cook" your little drill bit in about half a second.

The difficult part is to make sure you're holding the pin vice in the correct relationship to the piece you're drilling.  For instance, the top of the foot of rail is not parallel to the base.  If you attempt to drill a hole through it from the top of the foot but perpendicular to the base,  your bit will crawl  because it's not perpendicular to the top surface.  I start the hole by holding my drill perpendicular to the top surface, and after I see the first curl of metal come off, I change my position so my drill is perpendicular to the bottom surface, and continue drilling until I'm through.

Once you've done a few, you'll see it's easy.

Yes, your soldered throwbars will probably work just fine if you're using Andy's hinges.  The trick is to not have a rigid parallelogram, and with Andy's hinges, you'll never have that.  Also, with code 40, it's a lot more flexible than code 55, which alleviates the soldered points problem even more.   However, I've had bad luck with my code 55 soldered points, and even if they were easily soldered back on when they broke the solder joint,  I wanted a purely mechanical connection for better appearance and zero failures. 

We'll see how they work, but I believe they'll be much more durable than mere solder...but...they are a lot of work.

Cheers!
Bob Gilmore.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2012, 05:50:20 PM by robert3985 »

PAL_Houston

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #82 on: September 03, 2012, 05:06:43 PM »
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I wish I had something better to report:  Really hard to concentrate on model railroading lately.

I spent the last couple weeks of nites & weekends redecorating the upstairs bathroom and vanity....the parts that are quasi-attached to "the train room" that are now used for guests when they visit....   Before that it was travel or house guests (at least one of whom suggested new color schemes for the aforesaid bath and vanity  :x.). 

Now it's a "destination wedding"  that my best buddy's daughter is having in Cancun, and football season started! 

Interruptions, interruptions!!!    :D
Regards,
Paul

alhoop

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #83 on: September 03, 2012, 06:18:09 PM »
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Entrance to my train building. The brake wheel was originally black but I prefer red.
Were the brake wheels usually painted the same color as the associated car?

Al
« Last Edit: September 03, 2012, 06:26:20 PM by alhoop »

Bsklarski

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #84 on: September 03, 2012, 06:53:24 PM »
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Entrance to my train building. The brake wheel was originally black but I prefer red.
Were the brake wheels usually painted the same color as the associated car?

Al

not sure about years ago but today, yes.
Brian Sklarski
Engineer, New England Central Railroad

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mcjaco

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #85 on: September 03, 2012, 06:57:56 PM »
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Wish I had photos, but the main project I'm working on is for an article. Let's just say I have a Kato F40PH with a lot square holes in it now.

I also added gutters to Oakwood depot.  Basically the boys gave me a good of hours to myself!
~ Matt

up1950s

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #86 on: September 03, 2012, 07:05:31 PM »
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Al could you have put it to the left of the door and added a ladder or grabs ?


Richie Dost

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #87 on: September 03, 2012, 07:59:04 PM »
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I have made good progress on a particularly turnout-dense part of Fort St John yard.  Powered track now extends to the right hand turnout at the bottom left of the screen.  Also, there is less than 18 inches separating the Fort St John sub from the Fort Nelson sub which will curve in from the lower left.   Also attached pilots and couplers to the CRS 20s.



« Last Edit: September 03, 2012, 08:58:13 PM by BCRail_FSJ »
Attempting Canadian prototype modelling in Australia

British Columbia Fort St John Subdivision
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Zox

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #88 on: September 03, 2012, 09:05:01 PM »
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I've finally got the front elevation of the Kankakee Station laid out:



Only three more to go, then the real work starts...  :scared:

At least I'm learning some new-to-me CorelDraw techniques in the process. Among which was finally finding the transparency setting, so I could fake some shadows into place on the picture above.
Rob M., a.k.a. Zox
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Sokramiketes

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Re: Weekend Update 9/2/12
« Reply #89 on: September 03, 2012, 09:25:22 PM »
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Was able to spend a few good hours behind the workbench today.  Last week a 4-pack of Stoney Smith's Difco side dump cars showed up.  I thought it was going to be a quick project, but things in Z get out of hand quick...  After cutting away the end platforms because they interfered with coupler boxes, I decided to draw replacements for etching instead.  So these are lacking platforms and steps for the time being.  No matter, lots of decals to do.



This one is a stock Stoney Smith car.



Stock but with an added plate.  Prototype lettering variation from the first car.



The cool thing about BNSF is the variety of BN and Santa Fe equipment still on the rails.  This has the added plate, and is lettered for an ex-ATSF car.



And finally for some more variety, I modeled a shorter BN car.  I shortened the floor and ends and added scratchbuilt sides.

Decals are all a variety of N and HO Microscale decals.  I wish BNSF wasn't using 6-digit numbers... it takes awhile to do them individually.

These cars get parked at Gold Bar loaded with boulders. 

More detail here: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=27182.0
« Last Edit: September 03, 2012, 10:15:22 PM by Sokramiketes »