The LK&O Railroad

[LKOrailroad]

I did get a knife blade for the jigsaw based on a comment received on the MRH forum. Yes, finding one long enough proved to be a challenge. Big box stores turned up empty but a hard core tool store over near Flint had one. I found the knife blade tended to melt the foam if I tried to cut at the same feed rate as the wood blade. Other than that it worked just fine and, as you state, there was no debris whatsoever. In the end I find myself sticking with the wood blade. With the shop vac attached to the saw there is very little debris and the wood blade allows me to cut as fast or as slow as I want. For others doing the same either blade does a fine job.

[LKOrailroad]

Speaking of MRH forum, a discussion ensued about electrical requirements for a train layout and room. It is a shocker to actually calculate the requirements for a large layout. Here is a snapshot of the LK&O lighting as completed:

[LKOrailroad]

http://www.lkorailroad.com/base-foam-landform-complete/

[Sokramiketes]

I cut all my foam with a jigsaw as well, but I use a smooth leather cutting blade in it. Usually there isn't a single piece of foam debris when I'm done. The only slight problem might be finding a long enough blade for 2" foam.

Up to 6" on the smooth blade ones:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T313AW3-6-Inch-Jigsaw-3-Pack/dp/B001J0U1HC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_4

[C855B]

FWIW, after following Mike's link, Amazon presented another link to a sabre saw blade expressly for foam: http://www.amazon.com/Festool-493656-Foam-cutting-Jigsaw-3-pack/dp/B0033LBOJY/

I will definitely try it out, and soon. The rounded teeth are intriguing; I had similar experience with the knife-edge blades not moving too well through thick foam and went back to fine-toothed conventional blades.

[LKOrailroad]

That Festool blade is interesting. Now that I have hundreds of feet of foam cutting under my belt I really have to say the coarse wood blade worked extremely well. It is a common, cheap as dirt, probably already in your saw kind of blade. The shop vac did a most excellent job of capturing the debris making shop clean up a trivial task. I know I am as guilty as anyone but sometimes we really over think a lot of stuff. I now own a slightly used leather blade that will probably lay in the drawer forever never to be used again.

[LKOrailroad]

10 Mile Tunnel ... or so that is what I am calling my hidden track that connects the north staging helix with the upper deck at Kitzmiller. Finished constructing the sub-roadbed this past week. The full story and many more pictures are here: http://www.lkorailroad.com/10-mile-tunnel/ The hanging end you see is where the north helix will connect once I get it built.

In this first picture the track is under scenery. I took the foam out temporarily so you can see the track below. The track is making the final curve before entering the visible layout through a tunnel portal on the opposite side of the backdrop.


In this second picture the hidden track will be inside cardboard web mountains.


Finally in this picture the hidden track is below the benchwork and will be behind a drape. After I get track laid, hardboard short walls will be put in place on each side to prevent possible plunges to concrete.

[davefoxx]

Your construction reminds me of Gary Hinshaw's: precise and immaculate.  However, I finally found a flaw!    You've got a screw point sticking through the front of that table edge joist (at the very bottom of the following photo) that could cause an "owie" until you get the final fascia installed. 



DFF

[LKOrailroad]

However, I finally found a flaw! 

Only one flaw? You aren't looking very hard! There are many. 

Yes, the screw is an OSHA hazard at the moment. This particular screw and its 7 other mates will be under foam scenery once all is done. That's why I didn't nip them with the cutoff wheel. The problem stems from using countersunk 1-5/8" drywall screws. I sometimes get a touch deep with the countersink bit. You are right. Perhaps I should nip'em before they draw blood.

[LKOrailroad]

New Year's eve and I am having a blast with cork and pushpins. Who needs champagne anyway?

[Baronjutter]

That's some amazing benchwork.  I'm a big fan of this open style benchwork but just not talented enough to pull it off my self.

[nscalemike]

Got started on layout lighting panels.

I had a couple questions for you.  Tried looking back through but havent found answers but I admit I didn't reread everything.  How did you cut your light panels?  Also, what is the measurement of the valance on top,  I know you have a multideck layout, but was still curious.  I am debating between coming off the ceiling about the 3' down or putting in a valance off the wall, only about 8" tall.  My layout is in a finished part of my garage so the ceiling is about 9' tall with the layout being about 55".  If I put in about a 14" view opening that leaves 3' or so to the ceiling.  Not sure if that will create a tunnel effect in the room or not.  I really like how yours is finished off so nice though!

Thanks in advance!

[LKOrailroad]

Light panels were scribed and snapped. Here are two posts that explain the process: http://www.lkorailroad.com/aisle-ceiling-panels-part-i/    http://www.lkorailroad.com/layout-lighting-panels-part-i/

Top of the valance is at the bottom of the floor joists - 92-5/8", suspended ceiling wall angles are at 90", bottom of valance is at 75", view window is 22" tall, upper deck zero elevation is 53".

[LKOrailroad]

Still corkin'. Ran out of cork roadbed so had to wait for more. Back at it now.

http://www.lkorailroad.com/cork-roadbed-part-i/

http://www.lkorailroad.com/cork-roadbed-part-ii/

[LKOrailroad]

Cork and glue have been a big part of my life for a while now. Nearing the end of the roadbed installation. I may actually get to lay some track before winter is over!

http://www.lkorailroad.com/cork-roadbed-part-iii/