New Atlas N-Scale 4-4-0 confirmed

[Mark W]

Getting back to the headlight discussion, here's how my Atlas 4-4-0's headlight compares to a Kato Mike and B'man 44t.




I assume this has the advantage of being full power via DCC signal, vs being related to the power on the throttle, and subsequently warp drive speed for DC. 

[Mark W]

Finished up the installation of a decoder into my Atlas 4-4-0, but where did I put it? 





Also threw on a Z 905 coupler.


Atlas, you can guarantee perhaps another 10 units of the 4-4-0 to eventually come my way.

The next 3 will become kit-bash fodder for... El Gobernador
It'll be the perfect way to get a hold of 2 spare tenders for use with Atlas 2-6-0 and Bachmann 4-4-0.

[peteski]

Finished up the installation of a decoder into my Atlas 4-4-0, but where did I put it? 

Nicely camouflaged under the coal load? 

[nkalanaga]

Mark W:  Too bad you can't swap the LEDs.  The yellow would look fine for an oil lamp, while the white would be better for a modern electric headlight.  That white doesn't look very bright.  In fact, in that picture, it looks more like a polished metal reflector, although the "off" shot shows that it was lit.

[peteski]

Mark W:  Too bad you can't swap the LEDs.  The yellow would look fine for an oil lamp, while the white would be better for a modern electric headlight.  That white doesn't look very bright.  In fact, in that picture, it looks more like a polished metal reflector, although the "off" shot shows that it was lit.

Mark's headlight looks *MUCH* brighter than the one in my 4-4-0.  Mine is barely visible, even in complete darkness. Seems like those models suffer from inconstant assembly.  And no, it isn't the LEDs - with the shell off the LEDs are very bright.  Actually, even with the headlight removed, the LEDs brightly shine through the hole in the smoke box.  The headlight (or its clear attachment point/light pipe) is defective.

[nkalanaga]

Would polishing the intake end help?  Or would that cause more reflection and result in even less light getting through?  I know fiber optics work better if the end is polished, but haven't played with cast plastic light pipes much.

[peteski]

Would polishing the intake end help?  Or would that cause more reflection and result in even less light getting through?  I know fiber optics work better if the end is polished, but haven't played with cast plastic light pipes much.

Neah, it is something other than unpolished surface.  But polishing the surface through which the light enters normally does improve things.

[sharriso]

Here is the unpainted version.  Not sure if I can get the drive rod back where it belongs.  These guys are pretty delicate for FFMs (Fat-Fingered Modelers).  Looks like the whistle is bent, too.



Needs sand pipes and water injectors.  And for us it needs wood, not coal.

    Shawn and Sally Harrison
    - Modeling 1850s B&O

[peteski]

Yeah, the whistle is bent (they are extremely fragile).  I don't have my model handy but IIRC, the main rod just snaps into the cross head. It also is fairly delicate.  It is kind of hard to tell (without seeing my model) if the end of that rod is broken off or still complete.

I bought undecorated but painted loco. Yours (unpainted) nicely shows the clear plastic headlight.

[peteski]

I looked at my model. I didn't want to disconnect the connecting rod from because I fear that during disassembly I'll shear the pivot dimple inside the crosshead.  I think that the end of your connecting rod should have either drilled or etched hole.  Then there should be a dimple inside the slot in the crosshead. The connecting should snap into the crosshead with the dimple fitted inside the hole in the connecting rod.  That dimple retains the connecting rod in the crosshead and acts while also being a pivot allowing the connecting rod to swing up and down.

[rogergperkins]

David, do you have a status report on the cast part you mentioned? Thanks.  I think you are in a position to address many of the needs for specialized parts for this and other locomotives, thus I hope you move on this. 

Peteski, are you mounting the decoder over the motor? I ask because I've been contemplating making a cast part that looks like a wood bunker with wood to cover the decoder.

[DKS]

The spoked wheel inserts have been lasered and I'm evaluating them to see if revisions will be needed. Then I'll put in the order for the final lasered masters, at which point I can begin casting them.

The upgrade kit will also include a back for the cab, and glazing for the windows. All of that artwork is done, and the test lasering is perfect--no revisions needed for that.

In addition, I'm looking at making a wood pile for the tender to cover the Z2--I have a number of good reference images from which to work.

I can't say exactly when the kit will hit the street, as the work is interleaved with several other concurrent projects, but it shouldn't be all that much longer.

[Mark W]

In addition, I'm looking at making a wood pile for the tender to cover the Z2--I have a number of good reference images from which to work.

Will this be a full tender 'topper' replacement such that we just swap parts, or will it be a load only and require modification of the current 'topper' thing. 

(If it's an option, my vote goes to full replacement.)

[DKS]

I considered a full "tender topper" replacement part, but it would increase the cost of the kit substantially. As it is, the original part is actually three parts glued together.

[loco-n]

David,
Could you include etched curtains to be used for the Atlas and the BM 4-4-0 ? Perhaps they would also fit the Atlas 2-6-0?
Franz