Seaboard Central 2.0

[davefoxx]

Looking good, Dave.
Can you stagger the bridge sides a little (create a parallelogram)?
That would put the supports more in line with the track below.

As for the trestle, I'm also building a curved span on a slight grade, so it'll be interesting to see what you do 
The late Wolfgang Dudler has a nice tutorial on building a curved span (in short straight stringer sections) on his Westport Terminal site:
http://www.westportterminal.de/trestle.html
Good starting point.

Thanks for the link.  That's some good information there.

I really can't skew this plate girder bridge, because the kit parts (bracing) couldn't be used.  Really, if I were to get into skewing the bridge, the best way would be a longer outer girder, due to the sharpness of the curve that does not show in the picture above.  I should get another picture from the top.

DFF

[davefoxx]

Whys that stopping you!? Just put painters tape 1" where you want to drop your feeders and then start painting track and ballasting!  Its what I've done several times, and again on my new layout as I had ran out of wire in the middle of the night, but still had plenty of energy to do more.

You're right, except now I am hampered by cooler weather.  I would like to take the whole layout outside to avoid paint fumes in the house (I have a ten-month old daughter).  So, I might as well do the wiring first.  Did I mention that I like to procrastinate when to comes to ballasting? 

Thanks for the great tip, though.  Maybe I could consider doing a small section at a time to limit the fumes.  Hmm...

DFF

[davefoxx]

Maybe this will help you help me:







Oh, and feel free to offer suggestions.  I really do want to build a timber trestle here, and if someone has a suggestion how to clear the lower track without a steel span, let me know.

DFF

[M.C. Fujiwara]

One way is to have a wooden "box" under the span over the tracks.
Look at the curved trestles on this site: http://www.pawstrains.com/bridge_scales_and_info_page.htm

Another way is to have an "A-frame" over the span:





My first scratch-built structure from many many moons ago, built from some HO plans in a mid-90's MR (I can find it and scan it if you want).

[wazzou]

Dave -
PM me your e-mail address and I can send you a photo with some commentary.

[davefoxx]

One way is to have a wooden "box" under the span over the tracks.
Look at the curved trestles on this site: http://www.pawstrains.com/bridge_scales_and_info_page.htm

Another way is to have an "A-frame" over the span:





My first scratch-built structure from many many moons ago, built from some HO plans in a mid-90's MR (I can find it and scan it if you want).

That A-frame is beautiful, but the wooden "box" is more what I had in mind.  But, I don't know the specs for designing such a structure.  Sure, I can easily build it to support the model trains, but would it look feasible?  I actually saw the picture in your link (with the "box") earlier this morning when I was trying to research for prototype pics.

Could I perhaps replace the plate girder section with steel I-beams, which I could easily fabricate from styrene?  The question then is how tall would the beams need to be to span 50-60'?

I'm open to suggestions for something that could support a Geep and be reasonably feasible in the 1980s on a short line.  By the way, I've seen photographic evidence that the A&R did have wood trestles (they just didn't cross over another line, only small bodies of water).

Thanks,
DFF

[davefoxx]

Bryan,

PM sent. Thanks

DFF

[Chris333]

Copied from weekend update:

Skewed would be better as far as the bents are concerned:

[davefoxx]

Yeah, I think skewed may be the way to go.  I really appreciate everyone's suggestions.  The stain on the wood pieces is drying, so, hopefully, in the next few days, I can begin to lay it out.  I must continue to search for pictures for guidance, though.

DFF

[M.C. Fujiwara]

Maybe not right for the prototype, but it would be distinctive!

[Chris333]

[Chris333]

BTW my above bridge was build on a 9.75" R and 2.5% grade. I bent ME bridge flex to the curve and turned it upside down to glue everything to it. Had to glue the bridge bents slightly tilted since it was on a grade. The track held the radius (why I like ME flex)

[davefoxx]

Chris, as usual, you nailed it.  The only change will be the left abutment, which won't need to be skewed.  I'll carve the foam to make a straight abutment there.  But your plate girder on the timber trestle is exactly what I had in mind originally.  Guess I'll go back and cut up that ME bridge and build my own bracing for it.  I suppose it doesn't exactly have to be superdetailed under there.  Oh, and I have a piece of ME bridge track awaiting its turn in this project, so I can do the same thing!

By the way, Bryan (wazzou) emailed me a scan of a picture that shows bents skewed on the prototype at a rail crossing.  Now, I have that for guidance and inspiration.

Thanks, guys!

DFF

[davefoxx]

Chris,

This is just a beautiful piece of art you created.  Impressive.

I just ran across an old Atlantic Coast Line bridge that was similar to yours in that a double bent supported each end of the girder, so there are three bents together where the wood stringers meet the steel girders.  I plan to follow suit.

DFF

[davefoxx]

Maybe not right for the prototype, but it would be distinctive!

Ha!  Well, it would be easier to build... I think.