Debonding Wood Glue Without Hurting Plastic

[Ian MacMillan]

I need to debond Titebond woodglue that I had used to secure some track to cork roadbed. Titebond gave me some recommendations on what to use, but most seem like they would "melt" the plastic ties.

[davefoxx]

Ian,

I usually go at it with a putty knife that has a really thin, flexible blade.  If you're careful, you can get the blade between the cork and the track without breaking any ties.  Once you get started, it's almost as if you're unzipping it.  Most of the glue residue sticks to the cork, so there's minimal clean up, if any, needed for the track.  You'll probably need to replace the cork, but that's not very expensive and not worth trying to save.

DFF

[DKS]

Use a packing knife and slice through the cork horizontally, splitting it (more or less) in half. You should then be able to peel most of the cork off the track. If a lot sticks to the track, try soaking it in water for several days (IIRC, Titebond is water-resistant, not waterproof--but I could be wrong).

[Ian MacMillan]

I'll give it a shot. I just need to save the turnouts...don't care about the cork.

[Ian MacMillan]

...Once you get started, it's almost as if you're unzipping it. ...

Wow that really was easy. Nice how securely it holds the tack down and then zips right up. I was able to save all the flex and all but 2 turnouts.

[GaryHinshaw]

For those of us about to be laying flex on cork, is Titebond a good choice?  Is this equivalent to other yellow wood glues (Aliphatic resin, IIRC)?  I think it is...

Any problems with unwanted delaminations?

Thanks,
-gfh

[Ian MacMillan]

The Titebond worked excellent. I used it based on a recommendation from John (MEC_Fan). I did not have any delaminations at all...which is why I posted the question because honestly I thought I was never going to get the track up because it seemed by touch that it was so locked down. However like Foxxylady suggested, once I got a corner started it all just zipped right up. I could see where this may be a problem on the edges of modules if you are not careful. I am going to use it again for future projects.

[Bendtracker1]

Use a packing knife and slice through the cork horizontally, splitting it (more or less) in half. You should then be able to peel most of the cork off the track. If a lot sticks to the track, try soaking it in water for several days (IIRC, Titebond is water-resistant, not waterproof--but I could be wrong).

The original Franklin Tightbond formula is not water resistant,
Tightbond II is, but is not water proof.  If it gets wet for any length of time, it will dissolve. 
Tightbond III is water proof.

The original formula dries very rigid while Tightbond II & III have a very slight rubbery feel to it when fully dry.   
I use the original formula at my cabinet shop and when it gets on my clothes, after the next washing, it's gone.

[John]

I've always had good luck with liquid nails for small projects .

[Ian MacMillan]

The original Franklin Tightbond formula is not water resistant,
Tightbond II is, but is not water proof.  If it gets wet for any length of time, it will dissolve. 
Tightbond III is water proof.

The original formula dries very rigid while Tightbond II & III have a very slight rubbery feel to it when fully dry.   
I use the original formula at my cabinet shop and when it gets on my clothes, after the next washing, it's gone.

Tightbond II for me would dry rock hard, it was Tightbond III that I had once bought thinking the water proofing would be better when ballasting and what not. It turned out I did not like the rubbery feel and it did not bond to the masonite as well as I and II.

[DKS]

I believe Atlas is using an acetal plastic (similar to Delrin) for their Code 55 track, which means 1) glues won't truly bond to it permanently, and 2) few solvents would affect the plastic.

[Chris333]

I've noticed Atlas C55 flex to be very slippery. When I use their rail for turnouts I alway clean the slick off the bottom before soldering.

[DKS]

I've noticed Atlas C55 flex to be very slippery. When I use their rail for turnouts I alway clean the slick off the bottom before soldering.

That's a perfect clue it's acetal; so is the "unzipping" effect when being peeled up from roadbed.