Silhouette SD

[Iain]

Miscalculated the sections amidships--or got them in the wrong order, as they are all pretty much the same. And the sides didn't fit well. Spilled my glue bottle. Back to the drawing board.

Maybe include numbering in your artwork in the middle of the stations?


Zox, I'll be sending you the Delrin and a CD with the artwork in various formats by Monday.  I prefer that DXF be used.

[pnolan48]

Maybe include numbering in your artwork in the middle of the stations?

I did. I just forgot to print that layer. And didn't see the notation that stations were 18.45 feet apart. And that sections 10-15 are identical and thus have to be cut. I'm learning the hard way.

[lashedup]

Just a quick SSD (Silhouette SD - I'm getting tired of typing it) related update. I made a few more structures with the cutter. This store building:



The store was built based on the original wood siding look. It has since been "modernized" with shake siding and a different style of bay window roof. There is a scale in front of the store that I'll need to scratch build as well:



So I've set it up in Illustrator so I can scribe the pieces with the SSD. The red lines will be a very light scribe for the metal pieces inset in the concrete. The black lines will all be full strength deep cuts. I over ran the lines for the wood deck. Not sure if I'll separate them out completely and hand lay them yet. They will get the same weathered wood look that the lumber shed below got.



I also used the SSD to scribe and cut the sides on this lumber shed:



Lastly I also used the SSD to cut out the pieces for another feed mill building:



This one is connected to another storage building (both of these buildings are very much a work in progress):



That brings things up to date. More updates as I make progress on things.

-jamie

[pnolan48]

Is that a millstone under the Nutrena sign?

I think I'm going to be buying some 4 x 8 styrene sheets tomorrow.

[pnolan48]

Pointers on cutting long lengths of 0.30 styrene:

Use about a 10-inch width by 39 inches (one meter) long. If you go much below 8.5 inches, one of the two white pressure rollers might fall off an edge. That is disastrous, as the work piece will skew

0.030 styrene does not load easily, especially when using long lengths. It takes me two or three tries to get it loaded, and that is only marginal. Offset the vertical (length) by about 0.5 inch to make sure the white rollers are always engaged with the styrene.

Your laptop has to be plugged in to a power source to power the output port. OK, that is computer age nonsense. But the Silhouette driver seems to require a robust power source to the USB port or--nada.

Man, do I have to learn how to layer the paths, especially when cutting at 1 cm/sec. The cutter will spend many seconds traversing from top to bottom to make one cut, then traverse back. It's not really that bad, but can be annoying when you want to go to bed and are still supporting the work piece.

Support the work piece with a gentle hand on both in feed and out feed sides.

0.020 styrene might be a better choice than 0.030 styrene, as it will load more easily.

[pnolan48]

I have a good hull on my second attempt. I think no one of sane mind would try to construct a 1:160 hull out of 24 stations, a vertical keel and a waterline bottom, with sweep and camber, all of 0.030 styrene, on a Silhouette cutter. Maybe a 1:96 hull or larger. At N scale it would be much easier and more accurate to power carve the hull out of a blank of wood--you could get away with a 2 x 4 even. Or even shape it with small power hand tools such as a saber saw and a disc sander. No one needs a 24-station styrene carcass.

It was a learning experience. I think I am going to have to learn how to cast larger resin parts! Oh boy, another money-wasting and otherwise useless skill at age 63!

[pnolan48]

I'm new to Picasa, so let's try this:



I cannot imagine anyone of sane mind thinking this might be the best way to build the hull of a Fletcher-class destroyer. Yep, it's accurate. I think I'd have to pay people to build another one of these, even if I supplied the parts. It might be museum-accurate after three tries, but museums don't buy styrene-skeleton models in 1:160 scale. The photo actually does it a compliment--it's ugly, but accurate.

Now I've spent a few days drawing this, I realize I probably could have shaped it (and better) in less than an hour out of a 2 x 4 with a band saw and a few sanding accessories (disc and drum) on a radial arm saw.

But I can make another exactly the same! I think it's like cloning a mule--doable, but other methods might be more natural, with better results.

Now for the superstructures, which might be like cloning a unicorn--if I can get the math correct.

[Dave Schneider]

Pete,

Thanks for sharing your experiences with us. Your point about whether this is the best method for the job is especially pertinent. Over the past couple of months I have thought about all kinds of weird stuff I could try to make with the SSD, but it is important to keep perspective. I have have second thoughts about whether this is the correct tool for my Milbrew building. At present there is something like 80 window openings. Although the SSD made very nice precise cuts, would it have been better to lay out the openings with strip styrene since it was covered with stucco? I don't think so, but it is something to consider. Likewise, is this the best tool to use to scribe 1000s of scale bricks for a large building, or would brick sheet work better? I have considered using slightly overscale brick sheets and using the SSD to cut painting masks for applying random brick colors to a building. Would concentrating on the brick finish give a better looking model than just focusing on the brick size? All things to ponder. Keep up the good work on your ship model.  I hope this project has had its moments of fun!

Best wishes, Dave

[pnolan48]

Dave,

Your comments are perceptive. Thanks for sharing them.

In retirement, I'd love to build a little business making N scale ships and, perhaps, long-span bridges as were featured on my railroad.

But I've never found a business model that wasn't akin to standing on my deck throwing $100 bills into the latest tornado passing by this Ohio corn town.

This Fletcher will be really nice, eventually. But, since I will most likely never build another, wouldn't I have been better off just cutting it from plans that I reproduced in N scale?

The answer is yes, in every measure. I can think of perhaps two N scale modelers who might be interested in this computer-generated model, and its cut lines, and I wouldn't think of charging them. The same two might be interested in a Benson-class destroyer, or an Auk-class minesweeper (both already drawn) or any other 1945-1965 ship. A "market-of-two", given the limitations of the SDD cutter, probably doesn't merit the effort to draw the ships.

But who knows what the future will bring? I'm enjoying the effort because I'm learning new things. Maybe a five-minute drawing will earn me a billion bucks in some universe not so far away? Maybe I can learn to produce a kit that a lot of people will want, and earn some money in retirement?

This initial SDD effort has become a challenge to see if I can do it right. The ship would already have been built if I did it the old way--but it would not have been geometrically perfect (or near perfect).

I think I can find justifications for a $200 cutter apart from ships.

Maybe I should try bridges next?

[pnolan48]

I learned today that 100-lb cover stock is about 0.011 inches thick. So it's virtually identical to 0.01 styrene. I have not tried 0.01 styrene yet, as I haven't found the sheet. I also haven't find my micrometer yet after the move!

For outlines, the SDD works perfectly well with 0.03 styrene on a score and snap basis.

In the next few weeks, I am going to try cutting the Fletcher destroyer superstructure from the cover stock, probably on the sticky pad. I did figure out the math for cutting a cylinder intersecting a non-uniform curve, but think it with be easier to cut the structure flat, glue a piece of sandpaper to the deck, sand down the structure, and just trace the result. I will try to cut the portholes. I'm thinking of using two thicknesses, so I can make recessed portholes.

[sd80mac]

I know someone had mentioned about cutting out locomotive sides. Has there been any success with that? Also, have there been any new insights or discoveries using this machine?

Donnell

[Zox]

Also, have there been any new insights or discoveries using this machine?

For my part, I've been too busy lately to do much experimenting. I'll have a chance to get back to it when June rolls around. I haven't received the Delrin sample from Iain yet, but I presume that's because real-world events have taken priority.

The last bit of SSD-related work I did was with the stencil-and-caulk technique, to create a block pattern for a retaining wall:





I also found out, the hard way, that 1/8"-thick material really doesn't work in the machine. (It interferes with the motion of the head.)

[Dave Schneider]

I am working on a tiny little scalehouse, with scribed walls, door, and vinyl over clear styrene windows. Should have pictures tonight (AST) or tomorrow.

Best wishes, Dave

[sd80mac]

How truly straight and square can this machine cut? I had the same idea about cutting locomotive sides to fit Cannon doors, grilles, and other hood components, along with cutting walkways/decks, side sills, pilots, and step wells. One other project I can think of offhand is scratchbuilding a handfull of SP bi-level commute coaches since I royally missed out on the ones from Walthers a few years ago. I do have a few more experimental ideas that I'd like to try, but would I like to test the concept before I make any announcements.

I am contemplating either getting this machine, or hopefully contracting someones services to do the work for me. (I think I would rather have the machine though!)

Donnell

[Dave Schneider]

Donnell,

The SSD cuts extremely straight and true. I (and others) have been able to make some very delicate cuts/scribes. Just look at what Jamie has done with screen doors! The only problems I have encountered was when I set the pressure too high and when the edge of the styrene came out from under the roller feed and pushed the piece to one side. That said, it is important to note that it only cuts very thin styrene (like .010 inch). I have worked more in .020 and .030, which means score and snap. There can be some inconsistencies that develop when do it this way, especially on the inside corners of small openings, but some careful knife work or filing can square things up. I haven't tried any of the things you have on your list, but they seem doable. I am skeptical about the sideframe project, but it will be interesting to see how that works out. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

Best wishes, Dave