Custom Curved Turnout

[davefoxx]

With a very special thanks to the generosity of our own Chris333, I received the custom turnout today that he built for me.  It is just as beautiful a piece of trackwork as I've ever seen, especially considering the severity of the curves that make it up (10" and 8-1/2" radii).

Here's the before:


Here's the "slightly" after (it's only temporarily installed):


I don't know if I'll have the time to complete the installation by SNFF this weekend, because I still need to remove and connect the siding to the turnout lead, creating the run-around that I so desperately need, as well as paint and ballast the track.  I'm going to have to be careful and take my time, because I want the turnout to match the superelevation in the existing curve.  THANK YOU, CHRIS!  

Dave Foxx

P.S. By the way, I reconnected the layout to the DCC system, and a train is running reliably around the loop now.  I even trust it enough to leave the room while I type this.  Keep in mind that I haven't even glued the track down yet or soldered the rail joints.  Unfortunately, I can't really test the inner lead yet with a powered locomotive, because I haven't connected any feeders to the temporary siding.  I can push freight cars through by hand, though, and the severity of the curve does not seem to be a problem.  So, if that side operates as smooth as the mainline side does, it'll be fine. 

[bicknell]

The turnout was all solid lengths of rail. The FT instructions suggest to use a Zona saw to cut those gaps. I have a Zona saw, but I cut the gaps with a "ultra thin" cut off disc used by dentists. It is quicker for me that way.

I have the Zona saw.

Pro: It cuts a really thin gap.

Con: It seems to get "stuck" on rail.  No matter which way I turn the blade (there is a clear "forward and backwards", but I find having it reversed a bit easier to use) it seems to catch a lot on the rail.  It makes it somewhat difficult to hold, and makes me always feel like I'm about the break the turnout.

I have also used some diamond cut off wheels.  Not bad, but a wider gap.

I am planning on showing off some code 55 track work in the near future (waiting on a Fasttrax order).  I've been thinking about some good ideas for some code 40 show off track, but nothing I've decided on yet.

[ednadolski]

Dave, is there enough side clearance for the passing siding?  If not, you may need to position the turnout with the points closer to the tunnel.

Also looks like you may need to re-lay the stub siding, to get the best fit.  Not sure if there is enough clearance with the hill, but if you have to cut into that then a retaining wall would probably be a good-looking scenic solution.

Since you're coming off a superelevated curve, be careful about making the vertical curve too abrupt, or you could introduce operational difficulties.  I find it easier to use thin balsa wood shims for the roadbed, since they are easier to sand to the desired contour.

This is definitely going to be a pretty cool small layout

Ed

[Chris333]

Dave,
Looks good! So you are running trains thru the turnout. How does it work?

Leo,
Some times the saw does want to go just one way. The cut off wheels I use are Dedeco "ULTRA-.009'S" silicon carbide. They are .009" thick and I'm pretty sure that is the same width as a Zona blade last time I checked. I cut the gaps from the bottom so if I nick the stock rails it won't be noticed. zip-zip done 

[bicknell]

Some times the saw does want to go just one way. The cut off wheels I use are Dedeco "ULTRA-.009'S" silicon carbide. They are .009" thick and I'm pretty sure that is the same width as a Zona blade last time I checked. I cut the gaps from the bottom so if I nick the stock rails it won't be noticed. zip-zip done 

I've been told, but not yet taken the time to find, "rope sawblades".  They apparently are a thin bit of wire with diamond dust on them.  It is harder to get them started (want to wander), but once you do they don't get stuck at all. 

The only source I have for diamond wheels is larger wheels (maybe 1.25" in diameter" making them hard to use with N scale track.  I want like 0.50" cut off wheels to make them easier to fit down in the track.

Also, before I cut the gaps  on the diverging end I set the turnout over the tie template and solder a PC tie just beyond where the quicksticks will go (I normally use quicksticks).  The two inner rails are soldered to a single PC tie by the cut otherwise, and I had several come off in cutting until I started adding the extra ties.  A "flaw" in the fixtures if you ask me, although a minor one.

[davefoxx]

Dave, is there enough side clearance for the passing siding?  If not, you may need to position the turnout with the points closer to the tunnel.

Also looks like you may need to re-lay the stub siding, to get the best fit.  Not sure if there is enough clearance with the hill, but if you have to cut into that then a retaining wall would probably be a good-looking scenic solution.

Since you're coming off a superelevated curve, be careful about making the vertical curve too abrupt, or you could introduce operational difficulties.  I find it easier to use thin balsa wood shims for the roadbed, since they are easier to sand to the desired contour.

This is definitely going to be a pretty cool small layout

Ed

Hi, Ed!

Believe it or not, there is actually enough clearance for the siding.  The camera angle makes it look much closer than it really is.  But it's only a foam scenic base, so if I have to cut it back even just for looks, that will be easy to do.  A retaining wall might look good either way.

I definitely have to relay the siding, but that was the plan since the very beginning.  That also should be easy once I have the turnout glued in place.  By the way, I also used a wood shim to ease the transition to get down to the level of the existing siding.  That shim is located between the wye and the right hand turnout at the upper right-hand portion of the first picture I posted above on this page.  I intend to do the same on this end of the siding.

Thanks,
Dave

[davefoxx]

Dave,
Looks good! So you are running trains thru the turnout. How does it work?

Chris,

It works great without even being glued down or the rail joints soldered to eliminate any slight kinks in the curves.  I ran a train consisting of two GP40s, seven freight cars (with Fox Valley wheelsets), and a caboose for about an hour, and it works great!  I won't be able to test the siding with a powered locomotive until I re-lay the track and install feeders on the siding.

Thanks,
Dave

[davefoxx]

I managed to find some time to work a little further on my layout tonight.  As you can see, I have installed the track, including connecting the siding to create the runaround track.  You can see how much the original siding needed to be shifted.  I soldered all of the rail joiners in this area, but I may still need to run feeders.  Once the carpenter's glue dries, I'll be able to test the track.





Dave

[MichaelWinicki]

Very nice work all the way around guys! 

[RDG_Rich]

Dave: I'm glad to see the layout progressing! Looks like the addition of the curved TO added about 6" of space there.

Chris: Very nice piece of work! (although I shouldn't be surprised)

[amato1969]

Excellent!

[tom mann]

Chris333 FTW!

Looks nice, Dave!

[Erik W]

Not to highjack the thread, but here's a grab shot of the turnout Chris built for me a while back.  It actually inspired me, when the time comes to build another layout, not to limit myself by planning with what turnouts are commercially available.  I'll get more flowing trackwork that way . . . and things will fit better. 



Erik

[davefoxx]

Erik,

That's not a thread hijack.  In fact, it's dead-on the theme: custom curved turnouts.  That's at least two layouts that Chris has left his mark on now.

Mine's working great!  A train is running flawlessly over the turnout.  I have to use a piece of tape to temporarily hold the points until I get a ground throw installed, but the first locomotive ran around a caboose just a few minutes ago.  This afternoon, I completed the track by installing the ties under the rail joints.  Sometime soon, I'll get the ground throw installed, so then I can paint and ballast.

DFF

[davefoxx]

Chris333 FTW!

I couldn't have said it better myself.

Looks nice, Dave!

Very nice work all the way around guys! 

Excellent!

Thanks, guys!