Digital cameras - what would you recommend?

[ednadolski]

I'm thinking of getting a new digital camera and I'd like to ask folks here what they use and how they like it.   I'm interested in something not too high-end, but can take decent pics of models and also serve duty on family vacations and get-togethers.

I've looked thru some of the old posts and seems that folks like some of the Canon units, are there any specific models?  Also, what are the brands/models to avoid?

Thanks,
Ed

[ednadolski]

For example, there is this Canon SX20.   Looks like the macro goes to 3.9":

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Canon+-+PowerShot+12.1-Megapixel+Digital+Camera+-+Black/9455127.p?id=1218107269974&skuId=9455127

[John]

And, if you decide to order from Amazon, use our Amazon link, and we get a percentage commission

[wm3798]

I would recommend a Canon provided that Canon has addressed it's fatal lens error problem...  It took the life of my Powershot last year...

Lee

[tom mann]

Ed, go here:

http://www.dpreview.com

And if you like photography and want to jump in all the way, consider getting a DSLR so you can use a true macro lens down the road.  Good entry level DSLRs aren't much more than that canon you posted a link to.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

The only problem with DSLRs is model photography.

Yes, the hardware does the job correctly, but on an actual layout, you can get much more realistic photos by taking advantage of the form factor that something smaller like this: http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=145&modelid=11125

That's what I've used for all the model photos I've ever posted here. The advantage is that you can get the lens right about N scale eye-level.

You can't do that with an SLR.

It's something to keep in mind.

[DKS]

You can't do that with an SLR.

Well, you can, actually, but it takes some trickery, namely a first-surface mirror and a little Photoshop work (to flip and crop).

Ed's point is well taken, but what many compact cameras often lack is the control needed to do things like stop down for the smallest possible aperture, or set focus manually to take advantage of stacking software like Helicon Focus.

Here's a test-shot I took using a Canon 40D, 50mm prime lens, 12mm extension tube, and a first-surface mirror. The POV is roughly that of a 1:220 person standing level with the lower bridge (it may appear to be taken from the edge of the layout, but it's not, actually). Being a test-shot, I didn't bother to take multiple focal-length shots for stacking.
 


Here's another much older shot using a mirror; the only way this could have been taken without a mirror would have been to chop a large hole in the middle of the layout.
 


My recommendation, if your budget allows, is to have two cameras, a DSLR and a pocket camera.

[TrainManTy]

My recommendation, if your budget allows, is to have two cameras, a DSLR and a pocket camera.

I'll second that recommendation. I have a Canon 30D DSLR that I use for photographing models, and my Panasonic ZS3 point-and-shoot takes (surprisingly good) HD video. I don't use the ZS3 for any still photos of the models, but it makes an excellent carry-everywhere camera for video and still photos of real train and other stuff! The main problem with it being that the aperture doesn't go anywhere near the F/22 - F/36 I use to shoot my layout! The 30D was expensive of course (luckily it's my father's who uses it for family photos, so I didn't have to pay for it!), but I paid for the ZS3, and it was only $280.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Eh... I am camera happy. I have a Canon Rebel XTI (I think they sell it as an Si now with minor modifications), A Sony Cyber shot F717, and a new Canon Elph 780.

The DSLR is my heavy lifter... it does my magazine shots and "serious" work. It replaced the Sony, which is a great backup camera. I still use it to do some specialized work. The Elph sits in my glovebox and is used for family events and shots of freight cars in the yard.

[havingfuntoo]

Canon make excellent cameras. If you are moving in to the DSLR market you would be well advised to also look at the range from Olympus. They have several bodies to choose from and a nice range of lenses, some that are well priced with good specs. The Olympus range have one of the best dust reduction systems in the market. You can also up grade bodies when justified with out having to buy new lenses. Canon are notorious for changing lens mounts with model upgrades. 

If you are looking at a 'point and shoot all in one' ....... Fujifilm FinePix camera range come extremely well featured, the Fujifilm DSLR range are high end and have Nikon lense mounts and are not for those of us that like to squeeze a lot out of our dollar. Nikon lenses are considered by some the best in the world but also come with a matching price tag.   

As a start I would be looking for a second hand DSLR body and then acquiring a lens best suited to do the tasks you have. Keep in mind the photo you take is effected more by the quality of the lens than the amount of Mp you have available, once you get over 8Mp the image compression factor (using jpg's or RAW ect) will be what will dictate the quality of your photo. 

[Mark5]

Timely topic as I plan to get a new "railfan" camera in the next month or so. I'm probably gonna keep using my "old" camera for models, so the emphasis will be on a camera that can easily control speed and aperature settings.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

The funny thing is, I feel that for railfan work, good, quick, auto stuff is actually better. At least, for the railfanning I do.

There's no time for manual metering and bracketing in this workflow:

1. Screetch to a halt
2. Dive out of the car (action movie style)
3. Identify pole lines, clutter, etc, in 2 seconds
4. Frame shot in 2 seconds
5. Squeeze shutter
6. Dive back into car, making sure to close the door before Gonzo starts kicking up gravel on the way to the next shot.

It makes this possible:
http://picasaweb.google.com/ed.kapuscinski/CRHSAugust2008RBQ#

Notice the number of shots of the SAME train, on 50mph trackage, and keep an eye on those geotags.

The man has a career in WRC, no question.

[DKS]

Once again, I think all of this justifies two cameras, a point-n-shoot, and a decent DSLR. There are times, as Ed describes, when there's no opportunity to scout out the ideal location, set up a tripod, and take meter readings at a leisurely pace; alternatively, there are such occasions where you will have the time for this, and would want to bracket that money shot.

Same for modeling, as noted before: a pocket cam for progress shots, and the heavy artillery for articles and such.

[wazzou]

I've got a Canon G-6 and a Nikon D-90 just for those very reasons Ed and David.

[AlkemScaleModels]

Like a lot of things, one can never have too many cameras. But I find lately I use my iPhone the most for both still and video.  For heavy artillery, as Dave says, I used a Canon 5D. I hardly ever use my Canon Powershot G2 (I think it is) or my film cameras, Nikon FE, or Olympus SLRS.

I am thinking about a Canon 5Dii and would be willing to sell my 5D to the right offer. It's in excellent shape.