GWIX Hopper

[ednadolski]

OK here is a quick test shot.  I used the Liquitex Burnt Umber with some Burnt Sienna tube acrylics, mixed with distilled water and airbrushed on.   My mixture was pretty thinned out, so it took me a lot of coats.  The paint came off with a brush easier than I expected.  In fact, I ended up wiping out most/all of the effect on the center panels.  I probably could have used a softer sable brush and a lighter touch to get a more subtle effect.  Another thing, I happened to be using a pretty thinned mix of the Aged White fade brew, so I probably was working with less tooth.  A clear coat like Dullcote or maybe even Krylon clear flat might perhaps be worth a try too.

This car is HO, but I think this could work well for N with a finer brush.   (Gary, are you going to try this in N scale?)

The removability I think is definitely a plus, in case you end up not liking the results.   It also should work to seal it up with a spray of Dullcote and apply another layer to get a multi-layered effect.   Like any other technique, a little practice goes a long way (and yes, my streaks need to be more on the  vertical).  Now I gotta find me a car to do as a project  ;D



Many thanks to Tom, for sharing this technique!

Ed

[tom mann]

Ed, that looks good, but I don't know if you want to use this to replicate streaks per se.  Here is a typical prototype shot of the real life weathering I wanted to copy:  http://rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=470212

To me, they look like "dry streaks".  The paint looks like it is wearing away from the top down, as opposed to a rusty top half that "bleeds" downward ("classic streaks"). ;D

[ednadolski]

To me, they look like "dry streaks".  The paint looks like it is wearing away from the top down, as opposed to a rusty top half that "bleeds" downward ("classic streaks"). ;D

I think I see what you mean -  In 'dry' streaks, the rainwater actually removes some of the paint and leaves behind a surface that rusts, whereas with 'classic' streaks, the rusted particles are washed off from an oxidizing surface and flow downwards to stain the paint layers of the vertical surface.

Appearance-wise, the 'dry' streaks would be somewhat rougher and patchier, and the 'classic' would be smoother and vertically continuous. The 'classic' streaks would also tend to have more of the orange oxide coloring, representing the newer layers of washed-off rust particles.  Some proto pix would probably even show a mix of both kinds, in varying degrees.   

In either case, the streaks should be vertical -- however in my test shot, some of the streaks are angled slightly to one side, which is something I'd need to fix.

Ed

[tom mann]

I have this one to share:

[GaryHinshaw]

Here is a typical prototype shot of the real life weathering I wanted to copy:  http://rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=470212

I love this one - I definitely need a few of these for a grungy UP grain train (in N of course).

So a few questions for those who have tried this:

* Do you spray the rust color over the whole car side, or just the region you're targeting?

* What kind of brush action do you recommend?  It looks like stippling would be best for the boundaries, unless the fade-coat texture is contributing to this.

This would be a great subject for a video, BTW.  I think we should get Tom a Bob Ross wig and put him in the studio.   ;D

[ednadolski]

"Today we'll be making more happy little rust streaks!"

[wazzou]

Tell me more about this reverse osmosis water.  I asked about it in another thread with no result.  Is this just a BS name for another product?

[Chris333]

RO water is just highly filtered water. I imagine it is like wet water.

[tom mann]

Yes, Chris is right.  Our house is on well water, so we have an RO hookup to further purify the water.  Since the sink nearest where I do my work is equipped with the RO faucet, I just use it instead of distilled water or WW fluid.

Made by Tim a few years ago:



Gary, I use a variety of brushes in a variety of strokes.  Soft brushes in a swirling pattern for the effects that don't need to be vertical, and stiff brushes in a linear pattern for the "dry rust streaks".

I'm glad this is getting attention!  I've actually been working on this effect since '06.  In this Soo Line example, I dabbed on the rust paint; and this resulted in unevenly applied thick paint that came off too quickly/thoroughly.  The air brush affords you a nice, even layer that is very thin and actually looks like it is not "stuck on"* the surface.



*the monkey feces thrown on wall approach to adding rust effects.

[tom mann]

One more thing:  I paint the areas I want rusted, with a little bit of overlap to allow blending.