AC&Y - Litchfield to Spencer OH

[SAH]

So, in June 2010 it went to storage.  Kind of funny to see the S-surve section in the truck and to see it now.  I honestly wasn't sure it would rise again, but I sure am glad I chose to build in sections. 

The Spencer section looks pretty much the way it always has which I suppose is postive reinforcement regarding the module design.  Pretty tough considering it's moved and been reassembled what, 4 times. 

Of course I didn't build the other sections the same way.  I ripped 1/2" ply and assembled grids.  While it was light (part of the goal) the frame also flexes too much, causing section to section interface issues (read derailments).  So I took down the offending sections and reinforced the key connection points (to the wall and between sections) with 1x4.  Finshed that today and it seems to have done the trick.

The other thing I learned is to be VERY careful when building a section separately from it's adjoining sections.  The Black River section was done in this manner and I had significant vertical alignment issues to deal with.  All fixed now but not as neat and clean as i had hoped.  More later as time allows.

Steve

[Dave Schneider]

Steve,

Thanks for sharing your experience. I just starting the Beer Line and am building it as sections. I am using 1/2 inch plywood and a full 1/2 inch plywood top. I am hopeful that this will be rigid enough. Any thoughts?

I love the looks of your layout with the black fascia and valance. That is a classly look that will never go out of style.

Best wishes, Dave

[SAH]

Hi Dave.  I've been watching your Beer Line posts with great interest.  Well thought out.  Looking forward to seeing your progress.

I mis-typed the lumber dimension in my post.  I ripped 1/4" ply.  I think you'll be fine with 1/2" frame and a 1/2" table.  Also, I'm screwing the back plate of the frame to the wall.  There will be no brackets beneath the sections for support.  As a result, the 1/4" lumber flexed too much, even with only an 8" section depth.  Future setions will be built with 1x4 back plates and ends.  The rest of the frame will be 1/4" ripped ply.  The table is 1/8" hardboard.  Pink foam on top of that.  Then the roadbed (homabed). 

As time allows I hope to throw other ideas out for discussion, consideration or reflection.  Some of them have worked out quite well.  Others not so hot.

Steve

[SAH]

One of the better ideas I tried is shown below.  Going for a shadowbox effect kind of layout and maintaining/building same works OK if the shelf is not very deep.  The Spencer section is 15" front to back however.  Getting to the back side for scenery and general maintenance I felt might become a pain.  So I hinged the valence and hold it in place with chain.


During maintenance or construction I tip back the valence using the chain to hold it in place.  Works great.  Lots of light too.

[Zox]

Now that's nifty!

How much do you reckon the lift-valence weighs?

[SAH]

Good question Zox.  I thought I should add that bit of data after reading Mike's post (or jab) at Ed's featherweight construction technique.   ;D
My contribution to the lighter-than-air design literature:  foam core board.  The valence is constructed with 3/4" square poplar stock.  The "ceiling" is foam core board.  The valence is double thickness chip board (heavy gray cardboard).  Any place there is a light I've attached 1/8" hardboard to the ceiling for heat dissipation.  I keep 1" clearance between any light source and the chip board valence.  I'd say the entire end section I've shown tipped weighs less than 3#.  The 6' long Spencer valence was constructed slightly differently using a 6' x 4" length of 1/4" plywood both above the lights (the ceiling) and for the valence.  The balance of the 11" x 6' ceiling is poplar and foam board as described above.  That section might weigh 8#.  They're very easy to handle.  I installed them by myself.

[sirenwerks]

I think foam core is underrepresented in construction possibilities. In a past career moving priceless artworks and objects for museums I used it regularly as bracing for objects in crates and even as exterior boxing. It's an excellent material and easily handled, cut and bonded. Cloth tape, such as stage gaffers tape, is another product that could find a lot of use for hinging access panels and the like.

[wazzou]

I've built my spraybooth with it.

[SAH]

I played around with a lot of different materials when I was going through my apartment railroading phase.  I posed the question "What if I couldn't make sawdust with power tools?" and tried to answer it with alternative building techniques and materials using a hand saw only to cut 1x lumber. 
Here's a photo of the valence design.  The open areas are filled in with fome cor board.

The sections themselves look something like this:

The lighting for the next level down is incorporated into the section above it.  A hardboard table goes on top of the lateral supports.  The photo shows a design that is several versions back.  The backdrop ply has been cut off at table level.  The 1/4" ply warped which made hanging the section nearly impossible.  The red & white wire to connect the lights has been replaced with white #16 zip cord.  As I wrote earlier a 1x4 is glued between the lateral braces where the section is screwed to the wall.  I use 10" roof valley flashing as backdrop.

[SAH]

Pretty things but short of the mark - from an operating standpoint



I've run a fair number of tests focusing on car weight recently.  I dug up Brian Morgan's article in NSR J/A 2010 in which he discusses wheel set selection and other train handling related issues regarding wheels and couplers.  I'm also fortunate to live within an hours drive of four fine N scale layouts where a 20 car train is considered short.  And better yet I'm able to operate on them regularly to see first hand what works and what doesn't and then pick the layout owners brains on the subject.

My conclusions, in order of importance:  Body mounted the couplers.  Stick to the NMRA N scale car weight RP:  0.5 oz + .15 oz per 1" of car length (40' = 0.95 oz - an off the shelf Atlas box car is pretty close).  Use good quality wheel sets that properly fit in the truck frames.  (I had no idea there were so many wheels available)

Now to retrofit all those nice looking cars I built before I learned what a operating layout was all about.   :

Steve

[Sokramiketes]

Whoa, why tease us with a far away shot of what looks like great equipment? Close ups! 

[SAH]

As I get them converted.  A little some of that peer pressure thing.   ;D

[SAH]

I've made quite a bit of progress recently so I asked John to move this thread to the new layout engineering report section.  Prior to doing so I reread the whole thing.  My how things have changed from the initial concept!!!!  For example:





It's no longer a roundy design, which was the idea all along but I got there sooner than I figured I would.  The wing to the left of Spencer will go to staging, representing points west.  The wing to the right of Litchfield will go to a shelf for a cassette that will be used to transport the train from one level to the next.  Yes I experimented with a helix and convinced myself it could work but never really warmed to the reality of building the damn thing.  So I resurrected the cassette I built for the Atlanta layout.  I know it works.  It's got that "model railroady" stigma attached to it but given the real estate constraints and the size of the layout I couldn't justify the space for the helix and having the train hidden for as long as it's visible.  So, three levels it is, and no helix.

Here is the progress as of today.  Track down east of Litchfield.


I have enough space to do Spencer Forge justice (center of the photo - gray flat spot), make the AC&Y house track functional and visually pleasing (brown flat spot) and give the NKP enough room to work a real transfer run (double track running around the edge).  This would all make better sense with a trackplan I suppose.  Then again, maybe not.     I'm approaching some of the construction issues from somewhat outside the normal approach.  If you see anything that piques your interest please ask and I'll do my best to explain.


Steve

[SAH]

Here are some details regarding the cassette.  One of my wackier ideas, with a twist:  I actually built this one.
It's 6' long, constructed of 1/4" lattice reinforced with aluminum angle stock the entire length.  Plugs at each end for track power.


The top is hinged.  I removed the open cell foam weatherstripping when I decommissioned it several years ago, figuring it would turn into a sticky mess in storage.  The foam goes on the bottom side of the hinged top and contacts the rolling stock with just enough pressure to hold them in place during movement.  Obviously house cars will stay put better than others, which works OK for AC&Y traffic patterns


I used simple decorative hinges - Four of them spaced equally.  They seem to be up to the task.


The cassette limits train length of course but given the era I'm modelling 6' is approx. 2 locos a caboose and 15 freight cars.  Adequate for the AC&Y and a layout this size.

Steve

[GaryHinshaw]

Wacky indeed!  I may have missed this, but how does the cassette dock to the layout? Do you have to hold it in place?

Cheers,
Gary