Airbrush Upgrade

[hegstad1]

On a more serious note, I like my Paasche airbrushes - built like a brick outhouse. Easy to get spares, reasonably easy to clean.

I've had my Paasche H for about ten years now and have yet to find an excuse to replace it.

[SirTainly]

thanks for the replies folks, I'll make some enquiries about a Paasche, as I had originally considered one, but had discounted them as not being particularly "current". An Iwata is still my preferred choice at the moment though.

Simon

[wazzou]

I have a Paasche VL and two Iwatas.  The first I bought, was an HP-B when I shot only Accupaint due to it's thinness, however it did not spray Pollyscale very well at all so I bought based on a tip from an Iwata rep. an Iwata Revolution BCR.  I think it was like $59.95 and it is absolutely a tremendous airbrush.

[Kisatchie]

I've had four Paasche VL brushes (one for each kind of paint I used - Floquil, Scalecoat II, Model Master, and Accuflex). They are very easy to use and are solidly built. I got mine from Dixie Art ( http://www.dixieart.com/ ). I don't understand the comments about them being passe. What, they make digital airbrushes now???

[ednadolski]

I had similar issues with the Aztek.  It relies on the "soak" method of cleaning the tips -- I suppose that's OK for solvents but I did not find it terribly effective for acrylics.

I now have the Badger 155 Anthem.   It's a lot easier to disassemble & clean, tho lately it has begin to 'sputter' a bit.  Probably my fault, I've never been conscientious about cleaning it.

[Erik W]

I have an Iwata Revolution as well.  It's a great airbrush.  It's easy to use and reliable.  I have an Iwata compressor with a moisture trap and I use a paint filter 100% of the time.  No clogs or spitting.  This filter works perfectly and is easy to clean.

http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=88&products_id=11433&osCsid=bcaeb4466a12912fe61ac2653d36607c

Erik

[engineshop]

I also filter my paint. One thing I noticed, if you add some thinner (doesn't matter which one) it produces clumbs. Now I pour the paint back into my paint cup even if I add some drops of another color, mix it and strain it again.
Since I filter my paint constantly I only have to add about 15% thinner to Polly Scale paint, and never had a problem with my airbrush again.
Although Iwata tells that you don't have to completely take the airbrush apart to clean it, I notice over two years, paint was builing up inside the airbrush. So I took it apart and soaked most pieces for a few hours and the airbrush gun is now back in top shape.

[ryourstone]

The Pollyscale airbrush thinner used to work great. About 5 years ago, something changed (even though the label lists the same chemical) and now it turns the paint into clumps. I know the Pollyscale formula itself changed, but I had an old bottle of thinner that would work fine with the same paint that the new thinner would gum up.

BTW I use a Badger 150. But I prefer very thin coats of paint containing 50% thinner and sprayed at low pressure, about 17 psi, so clogging isn't an issue. Seems to be the best way of getting a perfectly smooth finish that holds up under close up photography. But if Bryan says go with the Iwata, I would trust him The only other airbrush I've tried was an Aztec and it ended up in the trash.