Issues With an (Admittedly Old) Microscale Decal Set

[tehachapifan]

Let me start by saying I absolutely love Microscale decals and have been using them for 30+ years and have rarely had any issues at all. My prep and application technique is very solid and I typically get amazing results. These issues could all be related to age of the decals, but I have 30+old Microscale decals that still work like new.

That aside, I finally got around to working on a project I purchased supplies for back in 2013! It was 4 undecorated Atlas 89' flat cars and a set of Microscale decals for TTEX Long Runners. This was not the first time I've built these types of cars or used this decal set (60-747).

The first thing I noticed with this set over older sets (I still had some remnants to compare) is that there was far less clear carrier around each individual decal graphic. The older sets had carrier extend far past the boundaries of each graphic, whereas with these it was almost even with the very edge of the graphic. In some cases, the carrier didn't even continue between words that were supposed to be together as a phrase, making them loose, single words instead!

The next thing I noticed is that it took much longer to get the decals to release from the backing paper. With previous sets, it was 20 seconds in water, then place on a napkin for about a minute and they're ready to go. These took at least 2-3 times longer and would sometimes crack in the process of trying to slide them off the paper. Realizing these were probably older than I even thought, I tested a 30+ year old remnant, and it worked flawlessly.

Once I placed the decals onto the gently curved and narrow side sill of the flat car using Micro-Set, the larger ones that were almost all graphic or a solid color and had virtually no extended carrier would want to lay completely straight or curl upward and not bend with the gentle (convex) curve of the side sill. I've never experienced a Microscale decal curling upward before now. I attribute at least some of this to the lack of extended carrier, which I believe adds weight to the edge of the decal and will wrap around bends and corners for increased adhesion.

Some of the graphics are also just barely too tall for the side sill, leaving a very tiny bit of decal and carrier extending into thin air as opposed to wrapping around the top or bottom of the sill. No amount of Micro-Sol seems to be able to get this tiny extension to lay down around the corner.  If there was a longer extension of the carrier, I'm convinced this would not have been an issue. There have been instances with previous sets where a tiny portion of carrier extends past a sharp bend and one pass with Micro-Sol typically lays it down no problem. I hit these with at least 8 passes with Micro-Sol and it won't budge! Something is definitely behaving differently!

Finally, these just aren't adhering like previous sets. Normally, after several passes with Micro-Sol, the decal essentially becomes part of the paint job. To the point that they couldn't be removed without some type of stripper. The ones that are solid graphic or color right up to the edge of the carrier are starting to flake away with the slightest touch. It's looking like a 2-day decal job is going to be a complete re-do!

Again, all this could be attributed to the age of the decal and, while I store them carefully, I cannot account for how and how long they were stored at the shop I purchased them from. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had any similar issues.

Oh, and BTW, I do apply decals to a glossy and smooth paint finish.

[peteski]

Microscale uses screen printing process to apply all the color inks individually (and clear film too, which is screened on first).
These decals seem like they are simply defective. Maybe even missing the clear film layer altogether?  The color inks without clear film under them woudl be extremely fragile.  Or maybe the clear coat itself was screened on too thin?

As for the decal age, in my experience the common problem with old decals is that the decal images (including clear film) are cracked into many fine pieces.  I never encountered a decal behaving like yours.

[tehachapifan]

Thanks for the reply, Peteski!. I always assumed the carrier film was a top coating. Either way, it is definitely still there on this set but doesn't extend past the edge of the graphics much at all. I would agree with you on the carrier film being too thin, except that doesn't explain why it doesn't want to lay down around a corner after multiple applications of Micro-Sol (even with some of the ultra-tiny labels, etc.). Do these decals have some kind of backing adhesive that could have gone bad (dried-out?), causing the decal to want to stay more rigid and not want to lay down around a bend? Could this also cause the decal to not adhere well and begin to flake away?

[thomasjmdavis]

I think I would go with Peteski's explanation.

My overall observation with decals, regardless of brand, assuming they are stored well, is that the batch may make more difference than the age. That is to say, they vary from batch to batch- impacted by things like temp and humidity and the adjustment of equipment (did it lay down .0005 or .0007 in thickness) .  At one point, I received two matching sheets of decals (not MS) for boxcars.  One was 'perfect' (to my eye anyway), on the other, the white ink was so thin it was translucent- was good in a way, looked like a boxcar that had spent 10 years in the sun, with boxcar red bleeding through the lettering.

The one other thing that occurs to me (based on an experience with my own decals) is that they can be impacted by heat.  Not necessarily in your storage, but during transport.  I bought some years ago at a shop, left them in my car (fell out of the bag) on a 95 degree summer day, and then had similar difficulties in application (ie- they were brittle, broke up and wouldn't form well).  I can't say for certain it was the 'baking' in the car,  but it seems plausible.  And something similar would be possible if they ended up in a hot semi trailer during a shipment from manufacturer to hobby shop.

[Bruce Archer]

Hi All!
    Having been decaling models ( both aircraft and "N" scale for 64 years ( jeez, has it really been that long?!?!?) I have found the following to work, with whichever brand...
1-Decals need a gloss surface to adhere well. Use whatever brand of clear you like
2-If the decals are old, use Microscale's Decal Film, two coats. This will help keep the decals from exploding in the water (sometimes nothing works!)
3-Use warm, not hot water to slide the decal
4-Use your favorite decal setting solution, I use Micro Sol and Set. I have used Future Floor Wax on stubborn decals.
5- Allow to dry completely, then add another gloss coat to hide the carrier film
6- Add a satin of flat clear to finish the job.

If the decal "silvers"do not panic, using a sharp No.11 Blade poke holes in the silvered areas and apply "Future loor wax to that area.

I have not had any adhesion issues. But have had decals curl up, seem to melt and other issues caused by the decals themselves.

I hope this helps...

Bruce

[nickelplate759]

One addition to @Bruce Archer 's list:

If you have hard tap water, use distilled water when applying your decals.

I've never heard of using Future as a setting solution before! 

I use Micro Set first, then Micro Sol after the Micro Set dries, then Solvaset (which is stronger) on anything that's really stubborn.

[tehachapifan]

Thanks for the, guys!

I do every single thing on Bruce's list except I don't use Microfilm or Future. Adding any additional thickness to the decal is unacceptable to me.

Just to confirm, I would rate my experience and ability with applying decals and associated finishes at expert level.

This is simply the first time in 30+ years I've had Microscale decals misbehave like this.

I've also never had to resort to using something other than Micro sol to get the decal to lay down and conform before.

I keep hearing horror stories regarding using Solvaset on Microscale decals, so I haven't tried that one.

Also, I've always used warm tap water with no issues but will keep the distilled water in mind.

[amato1969]

@tehachapifan I only use Solvaset in small doses, and only when a few passes with MicroSet doesn't do the trick - typically only around difficult details when the decal doesn't settle.

[peteski]

There were all very good general tips for applying decals, but they really didn't address the question. I still say it is a defective decal.
Microscale decals are in my experience (and Russ' too) reliably good.  Since this single specific Microscale sheet did not behave like as expected, seems that it is just defective in some way.

[nickelplate759]

I tend to agree with @peteski .   I've only had a couple of sheets of bad Microscale decals, both from the same batch, and I've used well over 100.

[robert3985]

I agree with @peteski about Microscale decals.

And, I have had some sheets that didn't age well, but were (for Hell's sake!) over 25 years old, that disintegrated upon applying, after trying to get them to move around for precise placement on the model.

In one instance, I saved the day by using one coat (as per the instructions) of Microscale Liquid Decal Film, which, surprisingly to me, did not leave a discernible, thicker decal film after the usual application of Micro Sol.

On the other hand, I have had sheets of Microscale decals that seemed to be on a thicker layer of clear film that didn't lay down as I thought they should on detailed areas of the models I was decaling...like over vent gratings.  Since these were stripes I was applying, I was happy for the evidently thicker decal film on them, making them easier to get nearly perfectly straight, but it was taking multiple applications of Micro Sol (like, half a dozen or more) to get them to soften up and lay down tightly into the recesses, even with making sure on the portions of the stripe that weren't laying down that they had tiny holes punched in them with the tip of a new #11 X-acto blade.

Since I had 16 of these engines to complete, this process was going to take WAAAaaaaay too long, and I griped about it to my best friend and fellow N-scaler Jared Sharp, and he commented to me that he had had the same problem once, and that he had decided the problem was that his bottle of Micro Sol might be "old"...and had lost its effectiveness.  So, he bought a new bottle off of the LHS's shelf, and his problem was cured.  I did the same thing, and what do you know...my problem went away.  I had bought three bottles of both Micro Set and Micro Sol over 25 years ago, and this was the last bottle of the three I had purchased before the turn of the Century!

So, in my case, evidently the bottle of Micro Sol I was using had lost much, or most of its decal softening effectiveness through being out-of-date.

Here's what I was working on...

Photo (1) Pennsy fantasy foob paint scheme on modern diesel engines stripping away the Kato paint with 91% IPA, then using Tru-Color Paint, Microscale decals, Micro Set & Micro Sol, and a sealing coat of Satin Clear Tru-Color Paint:


To ease decaling, first, I use distilled water to be sure my decal water is perfectly clear and without contaminants.  Then, I always provide a glossy surface to the area to be decaled. To ensure I have a clean, non-greasy surface for my decals to adhere to, I brush the decal area generously with Bestine/Beacon rubber cement solvent/thinner if I've handled the model/body with bare fingers. I keep a brand-new, unused #11 X-acto blade in its handle on my workbench to poke holes in any silvering or bubbles that may form.  I follow Microscale's directions on their bottles of Micro Set and Micro Sol...wait at least a day after I'm happy with the decal job, then airbrush on a sealing coat of an appropriate "Clear" paint (matte, satin or gloss).  Voila! DONE

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[peteski]

I believe (by its smell) that MicroSol contains alcohol which will evaporate from the (closed) bottle over time. I just recently tossed a 20-year-old bottle of it because it lost its familiar smell.

[Bruce Archer]

Ahhh here is where the decalfilm works, it helps to keep those very fragile decals from "exploding" when they hit the water. I brush it on (it does not affect the decal thickness, as I apply 2 THIN coats).

Using Future as a setting solution is easy.
Place a layer of Future where you wish the decal to be placed
Slide the decal onto the puddled Future, after removing excess water
Apply Future over the newly placed decal.

If you use Future, ANY decal will set nicely ( it works on ICM decals, which no other setting solution puts a dent into them), and there will be no adhesion issues.

FYI: The second gloss coat is to hide the decal carrier film, and give an overall even sheen prior to the flattening agent.

Bruce