GE 70 ton bachmann couplers

[spr1955]

I have two Bachmann 70 ton switchers that run together back to back in a coke plant. I hate the couplers so I replaced the front of each with Microtrains using the existing framework and adding a microtrains lower coupler box top and securing everything with the same screw that came with the bachmann.  There seems to be a very fine window to where things work well in terms of screw tightness. Has anyone done something better? I feel like the more this goes through op sessions the more likely that it is going to fail and I want it to be more solid than is seems at the moment.  Looking for ideas.

[peteski]

I don't won a 60-tonner, but if it is similar to the 44-tonner, here is my MTL coupler instalation:

There is not much open space between the pilot and the truck, so it requires a coupler with the spring in front of the pivot post.


I removed the pivot post from the MTL box I was going to use, then enlarge the hole to pass through the Bachmann's post in the pilot.


Then I installed the MTL box over the Bachmann pivot (it is actually installed upside down, but that is irrelevant).


Then I covered up with the MTL lid and used Bachmann screw to hold it in place.

It's been some years since I did that conversion and I recall that I had to file the pilot opening wider to accept the MTL coupler box.

No problems with the tightness and the coupler swings freely (since the coupler is housed in the MTL box).

[MK]

Peteski, will this method work for their S4?  (Don't have it in front of me to examine.)

[peteski]

Peteski, will this method work for their S4?  (Don't have it in front of me to examine.)

Not sure. I bought one, but with all the projects I'm on, it is still untouched in its jewel box.
That method should work if the coupler box has similar design to the 44-ton switcher.  The only tricky part is enlarging the post hole in the MTL box (so it stays centered and that you don't make it too large).

[Chris333]

Haven't touched a 70T but here I put Z scale couplers on a 44T
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LDUiNShekxoA55qx8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2oJE51HCsPhJ7BnaA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UbD7rtsHmPEiUTGn9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/H28m2TQwSYmi7nkv9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wNwevWzk32n9Fm8E8

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Chris, so basically "screw in a 905"?

[peteski]

Chris, so basically "screw in a 905"?

I suspect you also have to add a shim to lower the 905 slightly, or it will sit too high.

[Jim Starbuck]

I put MT 905 Zs on mine.
Clipped the post off flush with the top of the pilot opening then reached in with a chisel blade and shaved the cast in box sides flush with the top of the pilot opening as well. There was still enough of the hollow post to screw the. Stock 00/90 screw into without pushing up through the deck. I think I sanded the sides of the coupler box slightly until it slid into the opening.
Didn’t put any shims under it and it worked just fine. I also cut the trip pin off because of adding trainline hose detail.
Have done the same with 44 tonners.

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[peteski]

If one is willing to use the Z scale coupler, and it will be reliable  in switching operations (if magnetic uncoupling is not used), then Jim's and Chris' solution is much more better looking, and easier than mine.  My N scale coupler sticks out further out of the pilot and is of course larger. But it can operate in magnetic uncoupling of that is a desired feature.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I think both are fine approaches for different requirements.

For me? STRT 10 is getting a 905.

[spr1955]

Dang !  I should have had a V8....    Z scale looks fabulous.  I'm off to get some Z coulplers.  Thanks guys.

[Jim Starbuck]

I had my 70 tonner apart last night and took photos of my unorthodox coupler conversion. I’m probably not a good example because much of my stuff is off the wall and likely makes a few here cringe. The results work fine for me so grain of salt and all that.
The stock Z scale 905 box is too long and interferes with the truck so what I have done on some close quartered locos like this is to cut the back of the box off flush with the back end of the internals. I put the mounting screw through the coupler which helps hold everything together then hold it on edge on the bench with tweezers. You can see the internals from the side then cut down the top and the bottom of the box one at a time with the tip of an Exacto knife.
Here’s how I cut the shell.

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Again, it’s not for everyone but I think the 905s look better and still work just fine.
Hope this helps.

Jim

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Holy crap. That's exactly what I did! Although I did mine more like a monster and just used a set of nippers to trim things once everything was in place.

No harm, no foul though.

[spr1955]

These are great additions to a solution. Much apprectiated for new ideas.

Thanks,