D&RGW Class 8 Box Car in HOn3

[Erock482]

I think I FINALLY nailed it with this one.
Phrozen 8K Resin seems to have solved my warpage issues.

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[Chris333]

Looks good. All I've heard about 8K resin is that it is very brittle.

[Chris333]

 broke 3 grab irons just looking at the photos   

[JeffB]

That looks fantastic Eroch!  The detail is pretty stunning and the amount of solid modeling work involved in doing this is considerable.  What CAD package did you use for it?

I see that you printed the grab irons as part of the model...  Not a criticism because it looks great, but other than the fact that wire grab irons are a bit more work than printing them, why would you print them when you know how brittle they are?  Just curious...  (It is your model, so do as you please!)

You say that the 8K resin solved your warping issues...  I'm assuming that this is the Phrozen 8K resin?  (which may be the ONLY 8K resin).


Jeff

[Erock482]

Jeff, You are correct this is Phrozen Resin. Elgoo has released some as well but I have not attempted it.

The printed grabs are mainly a time saver, and honestly I find them to be durable enough for this, once cured I've yet to break one off while putting cars together and test fitting components. The stirrups on the other had are more problematic.
Also, 17" Grabs are kinda hard to find premade in HO scale, 20" isnt an issue, but 17" are kind of an odd duck. You can get 18" so maybe I'll just have to adjust.

The one saving grace of 3D printing is you can always print a hole instead of drilling one, which makes the grab iron work less tedious, just add glue, slip into the hole, and viola you're done. And a bending jig doesnt sound too terribly complicated to make.

the 8K Stuff does seem about as brittle as standard Anycubic or Elgoo resins. But I have not had any issues yet.

[timwatson]

I think I FINALLY nailed it with this one.
Phrozen 8K Resin seems to have solved my warpage issues.

Fantastic work @Erock482 those details look so good. So if you had to guess why would you say Phrozen 8k resin has fixed your warpage issues? Did you do anything different with it? I have some but haven’t tried it yet. Thanks for sharing any findings that can make us all better.

[Erock482]

Tim,

It nailed 99% of them, I still get a little bit over long lengths which you can see in the images above, but not the warping across the short dimension that was driving me nuts.

The biggest difference between old settings and new was the lift speed, I dropped it way down from where the Mono X is generally run at. 60mm/min up and 120mm/min down now.

[sd80mac]

I think I FINALLY nailed it with this one.
Phrozen 8K Resin seems to have solved my warpage issues.

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Your results are AWESOME!!! I almost sold all my HOn3 equipment, but now...

I just received a 1kg bottle of Phrozen Aqua Grey 4K resin to try on my Elegoo Mars 3. Up to this point, I've only used Elegoo Water Washable resin, which works well, but after watching a few more videos regarding the higher resolution resin alternatives, I though i would try something formulated for the 4k printer I have. I am so close to buying an 8k printer! I just can't decide between the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K or the Elegoo Saturn 8K. 

Donnell

[Erock482]

Your results are AWESOME!!! I almost sold all my HOn3 equipment, but now...

I just received a 1kg bottle of Phrozen Aqua Grey 4K resin to try on my Elegoo Mars 3. Up to this point, I've only used Elegoo Water Washable resin, which works well, but after watching a few more videos regarding the higher resolution resin alternatives, I though i would try something formulated for the 4k printer I have. I am so close to buying an 8k printer! I just can't decide between the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K or the Elegoo Saturn 8K. 

Donnell

If HOn3 is the direction you're rolling in, I would opt for the Saturn 8K. I'm considering picking up a Saturn 2 or the new Anycubic M3 Premium for my next machine depending how comparisons of the two shape up.

[Dave V]

That's simply amazing.

If you'll allow me, I have one minor nit to pick on that car. The lowest grab irons on a real D&RGW 3000-series boxcar aren't straight, horizontal like that. On the prototype, the lowest grab iron on the side is bent up on the left, and the lowest grab iron on the end is bent up to the right. The reason for this is presumably so that when a brakeman jumps on a car in wet or icy weather, his foot won't slide past the end of the grab.

This is what I mean:

https://ngtrainpics.photoshelter.com/gallery-image/RD054-D-RGW-Box-Cars/G0000LmzRZNNmxaI/I0000F4_IHw6lUNs/C0000Vd2qoA2MbNU

[Erock482]

Dave you are 100% correct. I haven't attempted to print bent/drop grab irons like that as I'm afraid they'll be under supported and fail. granted with the ones on the roof printing at an angle no issue that may be an unfounded fear. I do have it on the attempt list, might give that a stab today.

At this point I'm working on making the grab iron bending jig to do them all out of wire for a bit more durability. I am working on getting some drawings of the RGS/C&S Cars as those will likely be next on the 3D print list.

[timwatson]

If HOn3 is the direction you're rolling in, I would opt for the Saturn 8K. I'm considering picking up a Saturn 2 or the new Anycubic M3 Premium for my next machine depending how comparisons of the two shape up.

 I have a Saturn 2 and I am really liking it @Erock482 what comparison you want?

[Erock482]

I have a Saturn 2 and I am really liking it @Erock482 what comparison you want?

Tim, I'm trying to see if the new light source both systems are touting really make any kind of impact in detail sharpness. Do you have anything you've run on the saturn 2 yet?

[robert3985]

Tim, I'm trying to see if the new light source both systems are touting really make any kind of impact in detail sharpness. Do you have anything you've run on the saturn 2 yet?

I don't think the light collimation hardware most of the new, larger 8K printers are touting is to aid "sharpness", but to get the intensity equalized across the screen so exposure times are pretty much equal everywhere, so that what prints okay in the center of the screen will also print okay on the edge of the screen.

DLP is the only technology that I'm aware of that really aids "sharpness" by totally eliminating the LCD screen, which diffuses the light coming through a lot...making a DLP machine with an X-Y accuracy resolution of 51 microns equal to a MSLA 8K machine using an LCD Mono Screen with an X-Y accuracy resolution of 22 microns...but with much sharper (almost too sharp) corners, points and also layer lines.

For a new larger print volume 8K MSLA printer, right now I'm looking at the Anycubic Photon M3 Premium for its added Z-axis accuracy of 5 microns, which, they say helps minimize layer lines.  Maybe the Elegoo Saturn 2 8K, and the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K also have that same Z-axis accuracy, but I can't find spec's for them. X-Y axis resolution on these is 28 & 28.5 microns, and in tests I've seen online, I don't see any difference between these slightly lower res machines than the top resolution Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K for N-scale prints...but, they have a MUCH larger print envelope for larger scales or larger projects.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore