Where To Find Maxon Motors After Motor Man's Passing?

[Lemosteam]

You will have to achieve well higher that 212 deg, I think.

Also don't run the motor till it sits for a while- the cold motor will attract moisture on the inside surfaces.  let it air dry for a while, and/or blow dry it (not with a heat gun).

[Steveruger45]

You will have to achieve well higher that 2`12 deg, I think.

Also don't run the motor till it sits for a while- the cold motor will attract moisture on the inside surfaces.  let it air dry for a while, and/or blow dry it (not with a heat gun).

Yes, thanks again for that good advice.  You may be right on having to get the flywheels higher than 212F,  I’m guessing a lot depends on how much interference is in the fit.  Still, I have options now to try.

[peteski]

Just last week I removed flywheels from a Kato motor and installed them onto one of the eBay motors similar to the Kato.

I used a gear puller to to remove them from the motor shafts.  Chris333 mentioned this gear puller on TRW fasirly recently.
"Universal Metal Pinion Gear Puller Remover Walkera W010 for RC Helicopter US"
https://www.ebay.com/itm/264029328626

I then installed them on the other motor's shafts using my mini arbor press.


It took some doing to get them both positioned properly, but I didn't use any heat.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

I just got 20 more slow speed motors for $1 each shipped. Even with a 20% defect rate, that's still a steal.

The biggest problems I have been running into is that the plastic casing isn't lining up perfectly with the metal magnet/armature cradle which creates excessive heat and friction. I have been working on tuning these problem motors, but still have a ways to go.

[peteski]

I just got 20 more slow speed motors for $1 each shipped. Even with a 20% defect rate, that's still a steal.

The biggest problems I have been running into is that the plastic casing isn't lining up perfectly with the metal magnet/armature cradle which creates excessive heat and friction. I have been working on tuning these problem motors, but still have a ways to go.

The sintered bronze bearings are spherical and they will self-align with the shaft if you bang the motor (on its side) against a hard surface (like your workbench).  I do this to any motor I reassemble, but it can be done to any with binding shafts.  Just bang away. 

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Sometimes all it takes is a good whack! Thanks for the tip Pete.

[peteski]

Sometimes all it takes is a good whack! Thanks for the tip Pete.

 

On some stubborn ones you have to whack few times on both sides.

[MK]

Whacking motors???     Sounds like something done in New Jersey.   

[Mark5]

RE13 is 13mm.  I have used the 1320 (13mm diam 20mm length) in the Trix K4, all by itself.  If you can find them with
a 1.5mm output shaft (they come in a ton of different configurations, so you need to see a photo of the motor)
You can mount a worm directly on the motor.

The 1320 is a BEAST for power.  Maximum power rating is 1.5 watts which is about double what a comparable Mashima can do (and 0.75 watt is still a LOT of power)
They have 4:1, 16:1 and other gearheads for these as well.

Max,

Where did you score a Maxon 1320? (I've been going through my notes with Motorman)

Thanks!

Mark

[Steveruger45]

Whacking motors???     Sounds like something done in New Jersey.   
[/quote

Hahahah.  My thoughts too.

[Steveruger45]

On some stubborn ones you have to whack few times on both sides.

Pete, thanks for the tips on flywheel exchanging and motor bearing alignment.  Good stuff to know.

[mmagliaro]

Max,

Where did you score a Maxon 1320? (I've been going through my notes with Motorman)

Thanks!

Mark

I only ever got them from Motorman.  I don't know where to get any 1320's now, without buying them straight from Maxon for big $$$

CORRECTION:
Actually,
https://www.maxonmotor.com/maxon/view/catalog?etcc_med=Navigator&etcc_cmp=Online-Shop&etcc_cu=onsite&etcc_var=%5bcom%5d%23en%23_d_&etcc_plc=product

You can get the Maxon RE series, 13 series, 20mm length (the 1320 with rare earth magnets, 1.2W power output) for
about $65 (the prices are shown in Euros, but I converted it).  That ain't exactly "cheap", but at least it's not hundreds.

[mmagliaro]

And while we are lamenting the loss of motors and gearheads, I notice that gizmoszone's website now comes up as "account suspended" if I try to go there.  They have a setup with a Mashima motor and a 5.25:1 gearhead for a good price.  They were plastic, so they were very noisy compared to a Faulhaber, but they did work well.

I wonder what the heck happened to them?

[rodsup9000]

And while we are lamenting the loss of motors and gearheads, I notice that gizmoszone's website now comes up as "account suspended" if I try to go there.  They have a setup with a Mashima motor and a 5.25:1 gearhead for a good price.  They were plastic, so they were very noisy compared to a Faulhaber, but they did work well.

I wonder what the heck happened to them?

 

 It's been that away for a few months now. I was going to order some and saw the same thing.

[Mark5]

@Max, Thanks!

I was talking to the Motorman about repowering my Concor/RR Y6b, but have kept putting off buying the motor until I got the flanges turned down. 

Mark