Foam between handrails and shell

[delphiz302]

Hi all -
Does anyone know the name of, and where to buy, the foam used between handrails and shells?  I don't need it cut, can be in sheets. 
Example pictures from a Fox Valley GP60:
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[C855B]

This may work: https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Open-Cell-Foam-Sheet-5GCW6

You're looking generally for 1/8" or 3mm open-cell foam. One caution, however: if you're planning on using this with painted models in a manner similar to the handrail inserts, the type of foam is important because some types - I can't tell you which - will want to stick to some paints if left on too long.

[John]

look in your local craft store .. michaels, etc .. they have something very similar.

http://www.michaels.com/shop-categories/hancock-fabrics/988617649

http://www.michaels.com/search?q=foam%20sheet

[C855B]

Oooooo... I wouldn't use "Foamies" or those other thin craft sheets for something supporting models, if that's the objective here. I've used some of it for projects; it's closed-cell and too stiff to cushion. It also out-gasses (smells funny), so there are still solvents lying in wait to mess up any surface it's pushed against.

But otherwise good advice. Take a sample of the foam to Michaels or other fabric store and see if they can come close.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

This may work: https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Open-Cell-Foam-Sheet-5GCW6

You're looking generally for 1/8" or 3mm open-cell foam. One caution, however: if you're planning on using this with painted models in a manner similar to the handrail inserts, the type of foam is important because some types - I can't tell you which - will want to stick to some paints if left on too long.

Closed cell foam. Open cell is the cheap stuff in pillows and couches. Closed cell holds its shape and won't "deflate" under pressure.

Neoprene and Urethane are the most popular closed cell foams. I have found Neoprene can sometimes stick to custom painted or weathered models. All open cell foams will do the same to some extent. Closed cell Urethane is what Atlas and Kato use.

On a totally unrelated note, I HATE cutting foam inserts, especially on Kato "book" style cases. They cuts never look perfect to me. Even using a straight edge and razor doesn't look great. Heated wire tools do not work well on flexible foam. A micro band saw with guide might work.

I have found these work very well:
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10416026

These inserts come in light or dark gray. They are a direct fit for Kato, Tomix, Green Max and other standard sized book cases. They also have ones available for the smaller "mini" book cases Kato uses for 4 car sets.

25 Meter class is what you are looking for. This will fit standard North American 85' passenger cars. Shipping can be a little expensive - as much or more than the foam itself. But to me the results are worth it.

Casco provides a range of quality book cases in a range of sizes and colors. Matching colors to specific passenger trains can be useful. I use Tomix light gray cases (with blue cardboard band) and Casco foam inserts for my Acela trains. Standard Kato dark green cases with Casco inserts are used for my Conrail OCS. I will use maroon or purple for my MBTA commuter trains.

You can find storage cases here:
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/list/700/0/1

Foam inserts are here:
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/list/701/0/1

[MK]

I just use a sheet of toilet paper and roll it (or fold it)until the right stiffness/thickness.  No need to worry about paint sticking.  I have a Kato with the same piece of paper for close to 10 years.  No negative impact.

[nkalanaga]

MK:  I've used paper towels the same way.

[DKS]

I just use a sheet of toilet paper and roll it (or fold it)until the right stiffness/thickness.  No need to worry about paint sticking.  I have a Kato with the same piece of paper for close to 10 years.  No negative impact.

This.

[peteski]

Strips of brown corrugated cardboard (cut from shipping boxes) of the thickness similar to the foam inserts will also work well.  Need to use a very sharp thin blade (new single-edge razor blade works well) not to crush the corrugations.

[nkalanaga]

A new hobby knife would probably work as well, and either would be simpler than getting paper rolled to the right thickness.  Never though of using cardboard, but thank you!

[MK]

With rolled paper you can "infinitesimally" control the thickness.  With cardboard you have to scrounge around to look for the right thickness combination.

[peteski]

While I'm not knocking the TP roll method, I see things that I don't care for.

The infinitesimal adjustability is actually one of them.  Too much futzing around to get that perfect fit.  TP also is rather soft, especially the 2-ply "luxury" kind.  The factory foam inserts are fairly firm to prevent the handrails from bending inwards while stored.  TP spacers don't seem that they will provide enough firm support. TP is fairly flimsy, shreds easily and has lots of fuzz.  I see it shredding and unrolling, especially after repeated removals/insertions.

Sure, some of those things can be addressed.  Using cheap stiff single-ply paper will make the rolls stiffer and reduce the fuzz and tearing. However, if I was going the paper roll  route, I would likely use a good quality paper towel (like Bounty).  Stiffer, thicker and minimal fuzz.

Yes, it will take some searching to find the right thickness corrugated cardboard, but just a flap from a carton will provide a lifetime supply of spacers. And the walkway width is fairly standard on most locos, so one size will fit great majority.

But like I said, either method works.

[MK]

Using cheap stiff single-ply paper will make the rolls stiffer and reduce the fuzz and tearing. However, if I was going the paper roll  route, I would likely use a good quality paper towel (like Bounty).  Stiffer, thicker and minimal fuzz.

That's what I use.   

[jpec]

You should come to where I work...you can still make out the wood chips in it...

While I'm not knocking the TP roll method, I see things that I don't care for.

The infinitesimal adjustability is actually one of them.  Too much futzing around to get that perfect fit.  TP also is rather soft, especially the 2-ply "luxury" kind.  The factory foam inserts are fairly firm to prevent the handrails from bending inwards while stored.  TP spacers don't seem that they will provide enough firm support. TP is fairly flimsy, shreds easily and has lots of fuzz.  I see it shredding and unrolling, especially after repeated removals/insertions.

Sure, some of those things can be addressed.  Using cheap stiff single-ply paper will make the rolls stiffer and reduce the fuzz and tearing. However, if I was going the paper roll  route, I would likely use a good quality paper towel (like Bounty).  Stiffer, thicker and minimal fuzz.

Yes, it will take some searching to find the right thickness corrugated cardboard, but just a flap from a carton will provide a lifetime supply of spacers. And the walkway width is fairly standard on most locos, so one size will fit great majority.

But like I said, either method works.