Custom graffiti- tagging techniques for models

[Scottl]

I've found my modelling interests rekindled in the past few weeks as I have started to work through a pile of projects sitting on my workbench.  First up is a stack of IM grain cars that I picked up from a friend.  I have been putting the kits together and it is a challenge that gives me great admiration for the souls who work in the IM factory.  As I assemble them, I am taking time to re-mark them to their current call marks and do some weathering. 

And of course, graffiti.  No modern (and not so modern train) is without it to some extent.  There are lots of ways of approaching this and I hope to document my efforts and to bring a collective knowledge to the subject. 

If you don't like graffiti or have strong opinions about it, please keep them to yourself. This is a modelling thread and is not intended to condone or glorify illegal activity.  It is to focus on the modelling aspects that are suitable for any scale (although my examples will be n scale).


As a starting point, I have been using commercial graffiti decals.  Microscale has a few sets but many of them are rather large for smaller scales.  I have cut a few lengthwise to make them a little better sized and the effect is nice, but there are only so many of these decals to use.  I've bought a variety from ebay sources, and these are generally fine, but suffer from having to be trimmed closely and a lack of white ink. 

Here are a  few examples with both types with some light paint fading using Zn white and flat finish:







The lack of white ink in some of the commercial decals is a problem, especially on dark paint.  I've tried another approach that seems promising.  I started with a picture (from the internet, source long lost) like this:



It is a simple matter to crop out the surrounding material to isolate the graffiti, scale and then print it on white decal film.  Some careful trimming with a sharp blade and a decent rendition of the original:



Even photos that are not ideal views can be used.  I used GIMP to distort this perspective image:



Some isolation of the graffiti in GIMP, scaling and then printing on white decal film:



I'm not really very happy about having to trip these decals so tightly as it generates a sharp transition on the model, but I am hoping the sharp edges will fade with weathering. 

[Scottl]

Another idea I have been toying with is scanning the ebay colour decals and reprinting them on my own white decal paper.  With some careful trimming, I think they will be serviceable for my own use. I could also put together composites of multiple images and print as one decal to simplify cutting and to reduce edges on the model. 

[Philip H]

I've. Ostlymused the Blair Line graffiti decals when I've applied it - along with a few @peteski originals. I find the Blair Line to be good renders at 3 feet -'up close they can to a little pixelated. Honestly haven't tried the Microscale ones.

What printer and paper are you using? How do you fix the ink on the decal?

[Scottl]

I forgot about the Blair Line decals. 

I have a supply of Micromark decal paper, nothing special.  I use a laser printer so my first attempts went straight on, but there has been some peeling with the decal softener.  My most recent prints have been given a coat of Polyscale matte.

[mu26aeh]

Check out Weathering Solutions.  They have some graffiti decals available, scaled for N and HO scales.  Lots of ICH tags, though I have not gotten any of those.  I got a pack they call Spraycan Scribble Graffiti.  Four different colors of the same design.  Here is a couple pictures showing some of them, along with decals from their cement streaks.

http://store.weatheringsolutions.com/categories/graffiti-decals

20160401_091240 by Adam Henry, on Flickr

20160401_091136 by Adam Henry, on Flickr

20160401_091155 by Adam Henry, on Flickr

[peteski]

What is good about Alps printer is that I can print the white undercoat smaller than the graffiti image, so the white edge doesn't show. But Alps also has fairly rough halftones, so the overall image quality is not that great. Color laser printer most likely can produce much smoother looking colors (no halftone grid visible), especially if it is capable of stochastic diffusion dithering.  Here is a good article about this.

I would love to get my hands on the ink jet Micro-Trains uses for tagging their cars!  But those are big bucks and the inks cost a bundle too (those are industrial printers).

One possible solution would be to print the white undercoat on Alps and the color layer on color laser printer (both on clear decal film). Then apply them both on the model (white first,, the color).  But I don't own a color laser printer.

[Scottl]

The Weathering Solutions products look great, and the scribbles would be handy.

Printing white is the trick- if you have the Alps that is one solution.  I thought I would try cutting a patch of white film that matches the colour image, and then print the colour on clear film.  That way you can position the white backing first and hide the edges under the colour.  It would also let you put some fade to the colour edges as you don't need to trim it tightly.

I just have an HP colour laser- the printer is not expensive but the toner is another story.

[tom mann]

What I've been doing is painting white underneath a clear decal.  This way you have control over how the white blends into the side of the car.

[Scottl]

You you hand paint or mask off an area and spray it?

[tom mann]

You you hand paint or mask off an area and spray it?

I've done both.  I'm about to do a SP caboose that has a real featherly edge - so'll I'll mask and spray it.