I know that there are maybe a million "How To's" on how to do a Kato RDC install on the net but mine is a bit different. Besides the decoder install I'll also be installing a strobe light on bot ends of the rdc. Of course you'll need one Kato RDC car theyre pretty cheap nowadays about $35.00 depending on where you shop.
I purchased a Digitrax DN143K2 i couldnt find much from other decoder companies like TCS or Lenz for this particular install. For the strobe lights I went to Streamlined Backshop Services for the strobes. Bryan at
http://www.sbs4dcc.com/ was very helpful via email when first researching this project, other companies I contacted never returned my email. The strobes were pretty cheap $7 per led with resistor and magnet wire attached now thats cheap, heck i may get some porch lights too depending on how this goes. For soldering I have a Hakko 936 soldering station with adjustable heat and a fine point soldering tip. I'll be updating this thread as I go along and youre more than welcome to ask questions if you have any.
While installing the decoder and strobe lights you may as well check your rdc for the split U joint as pointed out in this thread.https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=27067.msg277064#msg277064I plan on using the Digitrax installation instructions & manual for the rdc found below.
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=27067.0 - Instructions
http://www.digitrax.com/static/apps/cms/media/documents/documentation/decodermanual.pdf - Manual
Kato N scale RDC-1
LED, Resistor, Magnet Wire and Strobe fixture.
LED on a dime
Strobe Fixture on a dime
How to install the strobe light and fixture.Installation is simple. Begin by painting the base of strobe light fixture, typically silver or black. Next, drill a #55 hole through the shell in the desired location for mounting the strobe fixture,apply a minimal amount of CA glue to the hole, and insert the post on the bottom of the fixture. Using sprue clippers or a hobby knife, trim the post flush with the bottom of the shell. Apply a minimal amount of CA glue to the end of the post and attach the flat, front face of the LED so that it is reasonably centered on the post and pressed tight against the post and inside face of the shell. Now is a good time to test your work, if youu are happy apply a modest dollop of Microscale Krystal Kleer over the LED and inside face of the shell to help secure the LED then apply a generous dollop of liquid electrical tape over the LED and inside face of the shell. Repeat as necessary to create an opaque coating to block the visible light inside the cab.
8/30/12
I havent made any updates to this thread in a bit but I got my DN143K2 today & I located my thin tip soldering tip. I'm getting a little nervous about the install but I'm still looking forward to doing it. I thionk I'll start the install during the Labor day holiday weekend.
9/1/12
Well I felt a bit stressed out a decided to work on the install a little and visualize where things would go. following the directions on Katos website made things a lot clearer than I thought would. It looks like I may have to give up interior lighting if I want strobe lights. I never had interior lights before so I dont think I'll miss it much. I need to do more reading at Digitrax to see if I can remove the interior lighting module and solder on my strobe lights. I'll post some pics of the RDC shortlty to show the dis-assembly of the RDC.
I took a crack at installing the decoder and it was a bear like others had mentioned. It was simple things that frustrated me about the install. Once when instaalling the decoder I I installed the floor section the wrong way so that didnt work of course, I taped the contacts that the motor leads had to touch. Simple mistakes like those made me a little nuts.
Whenever I installed the decoder the right way it still wouldnt work, I encountered that problem before. So I placed blobs of solder on the pads that the motor leads needed to connect and on the motor leads too and I got front and rear lights to work as well as the interior lights to work and of course the RDC is running.
The strobe lights are a different story, the leads that connect to the resistor came un-solederd as well as the other one. I lost one of the strobe fixtures and got the other one installed. I guess this gives me time to fomulate a game plan as to how to go about installing the strobe. I feel pretty confident about installing the strobe and dealing with magnet wire even though it is T-I-N-Y.
Interior Lights
Strobe Fixture
