Marmion Valley - HOn30 2 x 4 Layout

[timgill]

Nice! Is that code 40?  (I can't tell, it's hard for me to judge size in HO scale pics)

Ed

Actually, it's code 55; I had a bunch left over from another N scale project.

I've done a lot of handlaid turnouts on templates before, but this is my first time handlaying ALL the track. It's proving to be...educational...to say the least.

[timgill]

A busy few days around the workshop. I have finally finished contouring the landscape, and applied the first initial coat of Sculptamold to the layout.

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

This is definitely an area where I have a bit of a learning curve. Visualizing and then executing the land contours in 3D proved to be a bit of a frustrating and painstaking excercise. However, I was more pleased when I started to blend the landforms together with Sculptamold.

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

The landforms will get a heavy sanding with 50 grit sandpaper, and then a "patch coat" of Sculptamold to clean up any big gaps or bubbles in the texture.

I am discovering more and more that working in HOn30 is giving me an opportunity to really stretch my modeling skills and explore projects that push my comfort zone. This Funaro & Carmelengo resin caboose kit is no different; this is my first resin kit, and, much as the Toma kit did, it is proving to be a bit of a learning curve. I have seen resin kits like this described as a "scratchbuild in a box," and I certainly can relate. I am about halfway through this kit, and am plugging along steadily.

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

I am having trouble getting the nylon string on the underbody to the right tension. It just looks "slack" to me, and doesn't have the right-angles that it needs for the correct look.

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

Additionally, my drilling for the wire handgrabs was a bit imprecise, so you can see minor imperfections in alignment.

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

Being somewhat of a perfectionist, this bothers me a bit, but it really is something I can live with and learn from for next time. Must get some newer, sharper bits for my pin vise next time.

However, I am quite proud of how #2 is coming along. She was dullcote-d for "tooth" and given an initial coat of weathering with artist's pastels:

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

HOn30 update 9/23/14 by timgill1983, on Flickr

I have to decide how to seal this coat of weathering (Dullcote spray-bombing seems to obliterate it), and then I'll do more specific "spot weathering" with rust/grease etc., as well as some drybrushing to pick out some highlights.

All in all, I think that I am enjoying the "roll-your-own" nature of working in HOn30 so far. It really is addicting, in its own way. Once you get a model to a certain level of completion, there is a lot of satisfaction gained.

[Chris333]

About the tie rod angles. In real life they would go through the truck bolster and out to the end beam next to the couplers. To model that you need to drill the floor holes right at the bolster. But in real life the trucks wouldn't swing as much as the model has to. So you probably have to push the holes back a bit to get wheel clearance.

Nice job on the loco, I need to get crackin' on mine...

[timgill]

But in real life the trucks wouldn't swing as much as the model has to. So you probably have to push the holes back a bit to get wheel clearance.

Right. Since I'm running this on *tight* curves, I wanted the trucks to be able to pivot as much as possible...so, compromise.

[tom mann]

Nice looking stuff, Tim.