Author Topic: Powering Island Modelworks MP54  (Read 1360 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

up1950s

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 9753
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +2321
Powering Island Modelworks MP54
« on: July 16, 2008, 01:29:42 AM »
0
Powering the MP54 using the TM05 chassis .

First there are more ways , but this is what I did , and may not be the best way .

Because there is a greater interest in the MP54 and no gut shots have popped up yet , I thought this may be of interest to some .

First I ground down the 4 side pilasters to the window lower edge . I use 1016 couplers on long cars and there placement dictates what steps need to be taken . On all cars I want the coupler to be just under the end sill . When you file the floor so it fits you will see that the sill on the floor is higher ( when the car is turtle ) than the end sill on the body . They have to match  . The floor isn't always the same thickness on both ends . My thinnest end was .080 , So I needed to sand the obese end to match that 080. but we don't need the whole floor because we are putting in the TM05 . I cut off both ends about 440. back from the end sills . Then sanded that fatso end to 080. Next on the body shell I sanded it kinda flat . More like de-ridged the edges . Filler here and there will be needed . If you go nuts sanding you may regret it . Then at the end doors , not the side ones , there is a shallow pilaster . You will need to make that 080 . deep from the bottom of the end sill to allow those floor ends to set in place . The bottom of the TM05 has a plastic bulge which has a weight in it . Remove the bulge flush with the bottom of the TM05 , the weight falls away . Now add a strip of 020. to the lower ends of the chassis , then the kit supplied end steps and partial floor which you worked on , but you will need to file a arc on the inside edge to clear the gear towers . Make sure it all fits in the body shell before gluing , and make sure you don't glue the chassis / end sill assembly to the body , and the fit should not allow for fore and aft movement . Once that is done the couplers can be mounted . Now we need to make a ledge across the pilasters so the chassis goes in deep enough so as not to show from the side view , and also limits it from going too far in . I indexed my cross piece towards the ends , abutting the side door lip . You need to get in those ends to glaze the windows , so be aware of that .Once that is shimmed on all four sides you should mark the body end with the matching chassis end . I use a given amount of drill holes . First car has one hole on the inside of the roof towards on end but not all the way through . and the same with chassis , towards one end . Car 2 has 2 holes . The reason for this is that the chassis to body drilled holes will be unique , and each chassis will be needed to fit into each body , and in only one way . Now if you look at a bottom view of my assembled car you will see 4 silver MTL screws . Those are where I drilled mine to hold these assemblies together . On my next one I will endeavor to get more meat around the screw holes  . Lastly I cut all the underbody details off the original floor , and after building a speed control for my model disk sander , I sanded off the remaining floor on each , now individual part , and glued them to the underside of the TM05 chassis in the same locations .

Hope this is of some help . I have to go out Wednesday to slide fishes down my neck . I will answer any questions before and after my Pelican act .   















Richie Dost

up1950s

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 9753
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +2321
Re: Powering Island Modelworks MP54
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2008, 02:13:28 AM »
0
Rethinking that pilaster cross piece . That was originally put there so a single screw behind the coupler would be the chassis mounting . But that didn't line up , and I went to 4 screws . Cut the pilasters down to 208 thousandths deep from the edge of the body shell , and that ought to do it . Shim or grind as needed . Line up your 4 screws to land in those which is where they are going anyway .

Looks like I lost an air tank popping the hood , I have it , and will remount it . These were only lightly glued on , I never got around to laying in a perimeter edge of glue yet . Was only done a few hours ago .
« Last Edit: July 16, 2008, 02:21:51 AM by up1950s »


Richie Dost

Chris333

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 18399
  • Respect: +5672
Re: Powering Island Modelworks MP54
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2008, 02:26:21 AM »
0
Can't beat that. Those Tomytec chassis do come in handy.