Micro Engineering Turnout problem

[diezmon]

So, I started working my my turnouts.. most of which are older ME code 55 turnouts.  I've been isolating the frogs and taking the little spring out to get 'em ready for manual control.

Those of you who are familiar with ME turnouts are familiar with the spring action.  Well, I took the spring out of the and replaced the throw bar with that longer plastic piece from the kit.  And *$&#!!  now the *&$!! point rails fall out because there is SO little space in those little joiners where the point rails meet the rest of the switch!

They're built with two joiners that hold the point rails, and allow them to hinge back and forth.. but there's like 10% of the joiners actually holding the throw rails.. and they slip out unless you have the spring switch in there.

What have other people done?  I can't be the first to experience this problem.

[3rdrail]

I'm using M-E's Code 70 switches, but I leave the spring in, cutting off the bar between the ties to insert the long throwbar into the hole in the bar between the points. The hole needs a slight reaming. I then use gel CA. Has worked so far.

[DKS]

I've used many of these turnouts in the past, both powered and manual. The snap spring must be left in, otherwise, as you discovered, the turnout falls apart. (Peco turnouts experience similar difficulties if the spring is removed.) I had no problems as long as I left the spring in place. If you actuate it with a sprung linkage (like a "Z" bar), it will work perfectly. I never used the supplied throwbar, however; I always connected the linkage directly to the hole that the throwbar would ordinarily engage.

[SAH]

It is possible to run without the spring, but other mods must be made.  I DCCized mine:  Isolated the points so each can match the polarity of the adjacent stock rail.  In the process the, spring had to go.  IIRC I joined the point rails with a second pcb tie closer to the rail joiners, isolating the rails by cutting the foil between the rails.  I then inserted a spike close to the new tie.  Close enough so the point rails do not back out of the rail joiners, but far enough away so there is no binding when the points are moved.  A picture would show the installation better but I'm on the road this week.  I'll try and get a photo when I'm home this weekend if you're interested in knowing more.

Steve

[diezmon]

Well, I was able to revive the two switches I'd opened up.  I used some old guitar string wire(B  .013) to make a new spring.   They're back to working again! 



Steve, a photo would be great, as I want to go to DCC sometime, when I find one of those Round tuits.