Build a code 40 turnout in a code 55 fixture?

[freedj]

I have one #6 code 40 turnout that I want to build for the layout, and I have all the tooling for Code 55 turnouts from Fast Tracks.  The point form tool is the same for 40 and 55, but the jig is different.  The PDF tie sheet is the same for 40 vs 55.  Has anyone tried to build a code 40 turnout in a 55 fixture? 

It seems like if I push all the rails the same direction in the jig then the different size of the rail foot shouldn't matter. It will be more fiddly than normal, but I could see it working. Will it be easier than just doing it on the print out directly with the standards gauge? 

[Maletrain]

I am no expert on making turnouts (yet?), but I think you want to push the rails towards the center, not all to one side.  The reason is track gauge.  You want the inner edges of the rail heads to be the same distance apart no matter the size of the rail heads.

But, the jigs don't directly space the rail heads, they space the rail feet.  So, if the code 55 foot is wider than the code 40 foot, then the heads will still not be spaced quite correctly.  And there is noticeable difference in rail head width, so I expect there is also substantial difference in rail foot width.

Still, it might be good enough.  I suggest that you put some code 40 rails in your jig and hold them against the center surfaces, then measure the resulting gauge with an NMRA track gauge tool.  IF it passes, then maybe worth a try to assemble a turnout that way.  As I think about it a bit more, probably best to actually solder two pieces of code 40 rail to a tie before using the NMRA gauge.

Others will probably tell you that you don't really need a jig, and can do it with a printout of the Fast Tracks scale drawing glued down on some rigid surface to align your rails, once you have had some practice with the jigs.

[garethashenden]

I would get some of the 3 point gauges that Micro Engineering sell and use those. If you want to do it all in the jig too that would probably work, but relying on the gauges on the rail head will be more accurate if the rail foot is different.

[freedj]

I have a set of c40 3 point gauges to use, but they are so light weight that they are hard to be confident in. I just finished building a c55 curved turnout on a paper template, so that is for sure an option. I do prefer the fixtures, but I can’t see spending for a fixture for a single turnout.

[Sumner]

....... I just finished building a c55 curved turnout on a paper template, so that is for sure an option. I do prefer the fixtures, but I can’t see spending for a fixture for a single turnout.....

Since you've done that with success and only need one I just go back to that method.  If you need to do a number down the road then maybe spend the time trying to figure out how to use the fixture and if you do pass that info onto us.  I have the fixture for c55 #6 straight and have made a number that way and it is faster but also enjoy building them on the paper templates.

Sumner

[pedro]

@freedj I sent you a PM… I’ve got the c40/6 fixture and can bang one out for you if you only need one.

[robert3985]

I've built hundreds (maybe more) turnouts since the early 1980's in Code70, Code55 and Code40.  I've always used paper templates taped down securely (with the tape spaced further than the widest tie on either side of the template).  I got started before Fast Tracks had been thought about.

The tools I use for gauging are 3 Micro Engineering Code40 3-point gauges, and my NMRA Standards Gage.

Additional tools are a good metal straightedge/ruler and the tools you're using for soldering, cutting and filing when using the Fast Tracks Fixture.

Before I get started, I mark the paper template where I want my PCB ties to go (I use more than what Fast Tracks does...especially at the frog and at the point rail toes...y'know, the long headblock ties), and then tape them down as my first step.

I'm careful to bend the rails as close to the curvatures as I can get 'em, because Code40 isn't as stiff as Code55 so to ensure your turnout retains its proper geometry, it's important to relieve any stresses on it caused by the rails themselves by bending them carefully.

Since you've already built turnouts using the FT Fixture and at least one using a paper template, making a Code40 turnout on a paper fixture shouldn't be a problem at all for you. 

I find that Code40 turnouts are quite a bit easier to fabricate than Code55 turnouts because the rails bend easier, and there's less metal to file away.

Frankly, I'm pretty sure that if you just build one using a paper template, it'd be no more difficult than attempting to compensate for the Code55 FT fixture's differences.

Photo (1) - My last Code40 turnout on my Park City Branchline, leading to the Echo Turntable & Engine house:


Photo (2) - Here are three turnouts built monolithically for my UP-style center siding entrances & exits on paper templates on my bench:


I do quality control as I'm building them, always checking to make sure my handy test-truck runs smoothly through the last assembly I just finished, and then correcting it if needed before proceeding on.

Although I appreciate Fast Tracks bringing hand-laying turnouts & track to the masses, after a while the fixtures become sort of a crutch.  With the knowledge you've already gained from using a fixture, it shouldn't be a problem for you to build on paper templates when you've got an atypical turnout that's needed.

Good luck and have fun!
Bob Gilmore

[freedj]

Thanks for the advise and encouragement all, and a big thanks to pedro for the offer to build one for me.  I went ahead and used my #6 fixture the same way you would use a paper template, except more weighty, and it turned out very nicely.  The fixture does a nice job of holding the PCB ties, and then just use the paper template method from there.

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I tried pushing the rail all one direction but the code 40 is so flexy that I wasn't confident that I would get a good result.

[jagged ben]

I'm curious, can anyone take some calipers to some code 55 and code 40 rail and tell us how they compare?

[robert3985]

I'm curious, can anyone take some calipers to some code 55 and code 40 rail and tell us how they compare?

Code40 rail is .043" high (mine vary between .043" and .042"), the railhead width is .019", the railfoot width is .0385"

Code55 rail is .055" high, the railhead width is .0255", the railfoot width is .0525"

Photo (1) - Here's a drawing showing scaled-down prototype measurements of 131lb rail vs ME Code40 rail as far as rail height, railhead width & railfoot width are concerned:


The one thing that is most obviously wrong with both Code55 and Code40 rail is that the railhead's top isn't curved, but flat...which makes it look much wider than it actually is.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore