"Smooth Fine Detail" from Shapeways

[nkalanaga]

We had a lot of discussions about how to prepare FUD, but I haven't been able to find anything on SFDP.  I have found that soaking it in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol is NOT a good idea.  It turns opaque white (not a problem) and warps badly (definitely a problem).

So, what am I supposed to do with the stuff?  Or does it need any special prep, other than a good soap and water bath?

[Lemosteam]

We had a lot of discussions about how to prepare FUD, but I haven't been able to find anything on SFDP.  I have found that soaking it in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol is NOT a good idea.  It turns opaque white (not a problem) and warps badly (definitely a problem).

So, what am I supposed to do with the stuff?  Or does it need any special prep, other than a good soap and water bath?

FUD and SFDP (formerly FXD) are the same material ansd are cleaned the same. FXD is simply FUD printed at a higher resolution. I bathe mine in bestine for 40 minutes in an altrasonic cleaner, and then I use my air eraser to clean highly detailed areas of the part.

[nkalanaga]

So they just relabeled it?  OK, so I'll find some Bestine.

Thank you!

[narrowminded]

We had a lot of discussions about how to prepare FUD, but I haven't been able to find anything on SFDP.  I have found that soaking it in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol is NOT a good idea.  It turns opaque white (not a problem) and warps badly (definitely a problem).

So, what am I supposed to do with the stuff?  Or does it need any special prep, other than a good soap and water bath?

Let them air dry for a few days.  They may return to shape, at least enough to still be usable.

[C855B]

Let them air dry for a few days.  They may return to shape, at least enough to still be usable.

Or not. I tried to strip paint from an FXD shell soaking in 91% IPA. It warped in under 20 minutes, and never recovered. It didn't bother me, though, as I had already written it off and was "trying things" just for the sake of trying. Glad I discovered what NOT to use with something not important. 

[mmagliaro]

I found something on the Shapeways site that recommended using olive oil (no joke).  I cannot remember where I found that.  I have used olive oil on some Shapeways parts and it worked great at getting rid of the oily residue (just follow up with warm soapy water to get rid of the olive oil).   I doubt olive oil would cloud or warp anything.

[wazzou]

The whole point of soaking them in something though is to get rid of the Wax Residue.  Did the Olive Oil accomplish that?

[milw156]

like dissolves like

[Chris333]

The instructions for the machine they use says soak in corn oil first. I think this helps the crystals that form over time. After than I soak in Bestine.

[bdennis]

Hmm Olive oil hey.. Sounds like a good idea. Its hard / next to impossible to get Bestine in Australia. The alternative is Heptane.

I will give Olive Oil a go. I have a caboose from ages ago that I have never got around to doing anything with..

[nkalanaga]

Bestine is a brand name for heptane, and it seems, from an online search, that it's actually intended as rubber cement remover.

One Shapeways forum decided that the best remover was 140 degree (F) water with Dawn dish detergent.  Several of the commenters tested that, and said it worked as well as Bestine/heptane.  I know they use Dawn for grease spills in highways, so it might work, and certainly couldn't hurt anything.  We have Dawn, so I might give it a try this weekend.

As for the warping, the parts I have are N scale containers (body and floor), and Wuttermelon's extended draft gear (box and lid).  The draft gear straightened out, and looks usable.  The container exchanged a "swayback" warp, with straight sides, for a straight roof and "in and out" warped sides. The floor is curved like a chair rocker.  I doubt that I can fix either, but that's why I ordered extras!

[Chris333]

That same hot water could fix the warp. Once it is how you like hit it with cold water to set it.

[narrowminded]

As for the warping, the parts I have are N scale containers (body and floor), and Wuttermelon's extended draft gear (box and lid).  The draft gear straightened out, and looks usable.  The container exchanged a "swayback" warp, with straight sides, for a straight roof and "in and out" warped sides. The floor is curved like a chair rocker.  I doubt that I can fix either, but that's why I ordered extras!

Give them a little more time.  They may settle out some more.  Maybe not perfect but better, maybe usable.

[screeh]

Hmm Olive oil hey.. Sounds like a good idea. Its hard / next to impossible to get Bestine in Australia. The alternative is Heptane.

I will give Olive Oil a go. I have a caboose from ages ago that I have never got around to doing anything with..

Give me a hoy if you want to try heptane, I bought a big bottle from Science Supplies Australia in Mitcham a while back and have plenty left - Stu

[Lemosteam]

Since I use Bestine and a ultrasonic cleaner, the 40 minute bath gets the parts very warm.  When I pull them out, I can restrain them with tape magnets, or a weight on a flat surface (I have a cast iron table saw wing that I use) until they cool.

Brushing and cleaning to me just invites breakage and unwanted damage.  I have some designs that only I as the designer can print using the print it anyway button, that are well below their design standards for ,wall thicknesses and I have never has a failure, because I have never had to physically touch the part during cleaning.  This is also why I like the air eraser.