Clear putty ?

[Spades]

I do the same as Peteski, except tape is on the outside burnished tightly and I use 3M acrylic red body putty from the inside. leaves a smooth surface. One tube lasts a life time

G

[JanesCustomTrain]

I do the same as Peteski, except tape is on the outside burnished tightly and I use 3M acrylic red body putty from the inside. leaves a smooth surface. One tube lasts a life time

G

If it was clear instead of red it would work. Or is it clear ?

Jane

[Spades]

If it was clear instead of red it would work. Or is it clear ?

Jane

Jane

Not clear the putty dries red.  Sorry  I just assumed you wanted to fill the boards.  I should have read the whole thread.

[peteski]

I do the same as Peteski, except tape is on the outside burnished tightly and I use 3M acrylic red body putty from the inside. leaves a smooth surface. One tube lasts a life time

G

I tried that few times but after the resin hardened and the tape was peeled off the adhesive from the tape adhered better to the resin than to the tape (so the adhesive stayed on the model and was a bitch to clean up).

Jane, I don't remember where you are located but in USA the UV curable resin is readily available in many local stores. Either in the adhesive section or in "as seen on TV" section.

[craigolio1]

Could you fill the hole with low temp hot glue, and then trim flush with knife?

Craig

[JanesCustomTrain]

Could you fill the hole with low temp hot glue, and then trim flush with knife?

Craig

I rather use something that can be sanded than cut if it needs to be.

Jane

[MK]

What about the Woodland Scenic "Deep Pour Water" being discussed over in the Products Discussion forum?

[JanesCustomTrain]

What about the Woodland Scenic "Deep Pour Water" being discussed over in the Products Discussion forum?

Good thinking. I tried Vallejo Still Water already and it didn't really work for me. Also just to level out the old glass inserts on the Kato SD40s and SD45s.

Jane

[peteski]

Good thinking. I tried Vallejo Still Water already and it didn't really work for me. Also just to level out the old glass inserts on the Kato SD40s and SD45s.

Jane

And I thought you weren't a fan of 2-part epoxies.   

[JanesCustomTrain]

And I thought you weren't a fan of 2-part epoxies.   

The Vallejo stuff (26.230) is straight out of the bottle, one part     (and no, I am not gonna try the Woodland stuff)

Jane

[peteski]

(and no, I am not gonna try the Woodland stuff)
Jane

Looking at this post:

What about the Woodland Scenic "Deep Pour Water" being discussed over in the Products Discussion forum?

Good thinking. I tried Vallejo Still Water already and it didn't really work for me. Also just to level out the old glass inserts on the Kato SD40s and SD45s.

Jane

It seems that you were agreeing that the "Deep Pour Water" was a good thing to try, while the Vallejo stuff didn't work for you.     

[JanesCustomTrain]

Ha ha, yeah nah, using ModelWater was good thinking (only because I already tried it)     I expect that UV stuff to be what I am after, fingers crossed.

Jane

[JanesCustomTrain]

Have you tried canopy glue?

John, I got a bottle Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue yesterday. It looks like, it smells like and it dries the same as Microscale Kristal Klear. I am not a scientist but I would say it is the same stuff.

Jane

[havingfuntoo]

If you can get over your angst of using resins, you might like to consider a finishing resin that is used on surf boards. It is completely clear provided you don't over dose the activator. If you use to much activator it will turn pink, generate excessive heat and craze. To prevent it sticking to the backing tape use some car polish that contains silicon, (the more silicon the better) remove the tape shortly after the resin cures and before it hardens. Leave it for 3 to 4 days before you work on it.
If you are using several layers to build up to a desired level make sure you pour each layer as soon as the cure appears to be occurring. By doing this each layer will link and become one integral layer being much stronger and a lot more transparent.

Don't use filler resin (the repair kits for boats use filler resin) they do not cure as hard as finishing resin.