Repairing a Walthers 130' Turntable

[alhoop]

Not sure how useful this will be but if you have a Walthers 130' turntable that has stopped moving in the prescribed manner, it's possible there is
one or more cracked gears. Here is how and what I used to replace a  cracked gear on my turntable. It would not move in a CCW direction and
made a clicking noise when moving CW. There are 3 small gears and one large gear that drives the TT against the pit 'rail'. These are available from  giZmoszone.com . All are called motor gears. The part # for the small one(s) is GM05-10-19 and for the large gear GM05-14-19.
If a gear is replaced make sure the replacement  gear goes back in exactly the same position on the shaft as the gear that is removed. Also watch for and save the acetal thrust washers for reuse. If replacements are needed 100 #2 Acetal washers can be obtained on EBAY
for about $10.00.
A 3/4"x1 1/4" x10" piece of wood,plastic etc should be used to support the bridge to preclude damaging the delicate bridge details.
Begin by removing the three motor screws and one drive gears cover plate screw Photo 1.  Note color of motor wires and where they go in case one or more break off. Lay motor back on bridge and carefully tape in place, being careful not to damage the code wheel. Remove drive gears cover plate and outrigger supports by prying loose from bridge. Using photo 2 a  guide, carefully remove the drive train and attached plate from bridge recess. Inspect and replace any cracked gears on the drive train or the white worm gear mounted on a short shaft with a worm under where the motor worm goes. I had to smooth the end of the secondary worm - make sure there is a #2 acetal thrust washer on the short shaft next to this worm. Photo 4.
Reinstall drive train and gears  - unit should look like photo 3 . Using plastic compatible oil and grease, lube as shown in photo 3. Apply a drop of oil to each end of motor shaft.
Reinstall the drive gears cover plate and screw and motor, motor cover and  three screws.
Not shown - my motor wires (blue and orange) are attached to their respective inside bridge wall with a dab of silicone to preclude their being caught in the code wheel.
If any soldering is needed on the motor wires BE EXTREMELY careful not to touch the code wheel with a soldering iron. I'm pretty sure no replacements are available.

[mplsjct]

Funny, I ran into the same problem, also ordered my replacement gears from Gizmozone (got a few extra just in case), this was a while back, maybe 3 years or so.

I used a Kato jewel case to support the TT bridge, if I recall correctly.

I contacted Walthers about replacement gears, they responded, saying something to the effect of "they will see what they have", but then I never heard back.

I also posted my findings, can't remember if it was here or on Trainboard, there weren't many comments, so I figured this wasn't a common problem.

My TT was still working when I discovered the problem, it would move in one direction, but had a significant cog moving in the opposite direction.

[peteski]

Good solution to a common problem of split plastic gears.  I suppose we don't hear more about it because I suspect that not many modelers own these relatively expensive turntables.

If the fit between the gear and its shaft is too tight the new gear will eventually stress-crack too.  If the metal shaft is smooth then the tight fit is probably the only way to keep the gear locked onto its shaft. But if there was linear fluting on the shaft then one could slightly ream out the hole inside the gear for a looser fit, then use adhesive to lock it in place. That way the gear would not be prone to cracking,

[robert3985]

Good solution to a common problem of split plastic gears.  I suppose we don't hear more about it because I suspect that not many modelers own these relatively expensive turntables.

If the fit between the gear and its shaft is too tight the new gear will eventually stress-crack too.  If the metal shaft is smooth then the tight fit is probably the only way to keep the gear locked onto its shaft. But if there was linear fluting on the shaft then one could slightly ream out the hole inside the gear for a looser fit, then use adhesive to lock it in place. That way the gear would not be prone to cracking,

I've got one of the early non-DCC ones still in the box along with 15 stalls of the "modern" roundhouse.  I've never taken the turntable out of the box, so if the gears are dried out and split (like the nylon idlers on Hallmark Geeps and F's), at least now I'll know how to repair 'em!  Still got a year or so before I begin work on my Ogden UP engine facilities.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[alhoop]

Back in operation:
See N-Scale magazine Nov-Dec 2010.

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Al

[mighalpern]

thanks for the part numbers, going to get a few to have as extras. 
BTW your link did not work because it should be giZmoszone.com

[Ogden Rails]

Is the drive mechanism on the DCC version the same as the DC model.? I just want to check if this problem with split gears also applies to the DCC turntable.

[alhoop]

Is the drive mechanism on the DCC version the same as the DC model.? I just want to check if this problem with split gears also applies to the DCC turntable.

It looks like the only difference is the electronics board on the bridge and the controller.

https://www.walthers.com/dcc-turntable-conversion-for-ho-cornerstone-built-up-130-turntable-933-2829-sold-separately

Al

[wm3798]

If anyone wants a turntable bridge to experiment on, I have one available.  I believe the drive is fine, I managed to blow up the controller... this is the first generation one with the DC push button, before the DCC version came out.

PM me if you're interested.

Lee

[Ed Kapuscinski]

And I have the pit for it too. I pulled it out before filling it in.

[UP4-8-8-4]

Good to know about repairing the Walthers 130' turntable.
Also thanks for the link for replacement gears and such.
Haven't had any problems with mine, but went on and ordered four of each gear.