General Rules of Thumb: When to Purchase FXD rather than FUD?

[Upstate Gator]

This topic is geared towards those of you who develop in Shapeways or have bought from there.

I've started looking at some detail products on Shapeways, and I'm not sure when it's best to pay extra for FXD. Sometimes the difference is minimal; often it's at least 50% more.

I know there's been conversation about FXD being preferable for N scale passenger cars, engine bodies, etc., and I understand that when there's a large surface, such as a car side, that it may make sense to do FXD. Is that true?

When looking at smaller details, such as REA carts by @3rdboxcar  (http://shpws.me/Cwsb) and track bumpers by Stony Smith (http://shpws.me/DLnb) that are offered in both FUD and FXD, would the differences be noticeable? I know that @Lemosteam offers the fans and vents (http://shpws.me/LrUU) only in FXD. Is there also a durability factor?

Thanks,
Ben
Fairport, NY

[wcfn100]

Unfortunately it could come down to how it's printed.  I believe FXD is only better in the Z axis or what they refer to as the 'layer'.  The resolution of the X and Y are the same for both.

Maybe someone can correct that if it's wrong.

I've only had a few things printed in both.  Most are so small that the price difference isn't much so I just go with FXD, but my NE5 caboose shell was quite a bit more.  There's definitely a difference, but it's hard to put a $ value on it, mosty because there are still issues to deal with for clean up and still some layering effects.

Jason

[Philip H]

yeah, my experience is its all about print orientation - which even the designer can't specify.  What I have bought is in FUD, and if you clean and prime it carefully it passes the 3 foot rule with ease.

[C855B]

Here's a thread discussing a direct comparison with loco shells: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=36112.msg427019#msg427019

[wcfn100]

Here's a thread discussing a direct comparison with loco shells: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=36112.msg427019#msg427019

What was the price difference?

I'm okay with the extra $7? I think I paid for my caboose because I really only need one for now and can hold out for better tech for future prints.


Jason

[Upstate Gator]

There are several listings of the shell on Shapeways, but it looks like 50% difference. $50 to $75 or $71 to $107.
For something as visible as a locomotive shell, the difference makes sense to me. I can also see the difference possibly being a price problem for some of us.

[towl1996]

Unfortunately it could come down to how it's printed.  I believe FXD is only better in the Z axis or what they refer to as the 'layer'.  The resolution of the X and Y are the same for both.
Jason

Agreed. I ordered some stuff in FXD and thought shapeways made a mistake, it's a crap shoot unfortunately.

[basementcalling]

Agreed. I ordered some stuff in FXD and thought shapeways made a mistake, it's a crap shoot unfortunately.

Yea, Of my two ventures into buying FXD, one wasn't impressive enough for me to routinely order it over FUD. Most of my purchases have been on detail parts and scenic details for buildings, which aren't front and center as much as a car or engine shell.

The FXD depressed center beam I ordered from StonySmith though is a work of art. There are a few clean ups, but overall it was noticeably better than FUD, though again I think when there is a world of difference it's usually the print orientation playing a role as well.

I brush paint most details over a coat or two of primer, so I can cover minor imperfections with sanding and filling. Haven't tried a loco shell yet, though if someone were to offer an UP SW10...

[Lemosteam]

This topic is geared towards those of you who develop in Shapeways or have bought from there.

I've started looking at some detail products on Shapeways, and I'm not sure when it's best to pay extra for FXD. Sometimes the difference is minimal; often it's at least 50% more.

I know there's been conversation about FXD being preferable for N scale passenger cars, engine bodies, etc., and I understand that when there's a large surface, such as a car side, that it may make sense to do FXD. Is that true?

When looking at smaller details, such as REA carts by @3rdboxcar  (http://shpws.me/Cwsb) and track bumpers by Stony Smith (http://shpws.me/DLnb) that are offered in both FUD and FXD, would the differences be noticeable? I know that @Lemosteam offers the fans and vents (http://shpws.me/LrUU) only in FXD. Is there also a durability factor?

Thanks,
Ben
Fairport, NY

Ben, here is the reality- FUD and FXD are the same material, so functionally they are the same.  FXD. Is simply printed at a finer resolution, which takes longer, as a result the machine spends more man hours than when printing FUD.

In Terms of print quality, I do some things to try to mitigate the striation, such as design in smooth parts and surfaces whenever possible for sanding ease.  I design details as add on pieces instead.  It makes it a more challenging kit, but I like building things.

I have said this a million times; the finer the resolution, the higher the time and as such cost.  Stepping will never go away, simply because printers cannot print in a truly analog nature they print curves in steps.  Like the difference between an artists painting and a robot painting or like trying to draw a circle on an etch a sketch.

 I offer some things in both prints, but I have found that for the most part, FUD is fine, especially if you can sand it or if it is part of an undercarriage, like trucks or underbody parts, or if something else will cover it, like an etched side.

For very small detail like the vents, FXD is worth the difference, IMHO.

Personally I think folks try to put too much detail on things, when they could offer them as a kit. Just my humble opinion.

Hope this helps.

[jimmo]

Ben, here is the reality- FUD and FXD are the same material, so functionally they are the same.  FXD. Is simply printed at a finer resolution, which takes longer, as a result the machine spends more man hours than when printing FUD.

In Terms of print quality, I do some things to try to mitigate the striation, such as design in smooth parts and surfaces whenever possible for sanding ease.  I design details as add on pieces instead.  It makes it a more challenging kit, but I like building things.

I have said this a million times; the finer the resolution, the higher the time and as such cost.  Stepping will never go away, simply because printers cannot print in a truly analog nature they print curves in steps.  Like the difference between an artists painting and a robot painting or like trying to draw a circle on an etch a sketch.

 I offer some things in both prints, but I have found that for the most part, FUD is fine, especially if you can sand it or if it is part of an undercarriage, like trucks or underbody parts, or if something else will cover it, like an etched side.

For very small detail like the vents, FXD is worth the difference, IMHO.

Personally I think folks try to put too much detail on things, when they could offer them as a kit. Just my humble opinion.

Hope this helps.

What he says.