Body mount couplers for Atlas cars - suggestion

[nkalanaga]

The Accumate coupler is probably the simplest working knuckle coupler possible, although many feel it isn't the best looking.  In any case, most Atlas cars use it, and most are truck mounted.  For those who prefer body mounts, here is a suggestion, for Atlas or anyone else.

The couplers can easily be taken apart and reassembled, which is the key.  Almost anyone can do it, with no special tools, and no small parts to lose.  If we had a plastic body-mount adapter, to provide the cover plate and extend the center sill, it would be simple to take the retaining clip/center post off the truck, along with the coupler, and attach it to the adapter.  Made of styrene, the adapter would glue to the underframe, and the job is done.   Make the adapter longer than a standard coupler, and the user could cut it to length, making extended draft gear easy to model.  Cut the remainder of the draft gear from the truck and the job is done.

The easy design would be a standard, one-size-fits-all part, with the purchaser providing any shims needed for height adjustment.  A fancier design could be tailored to individual models, making it a simple drop-in replacement, but at higher development and tooling costs.

If Atlas chose the second option, the adapters could be provided with the cars, and painted to match the individual model.  In the future, if the wanted to switch to body mounts at the factory, the adapters could be installed there.

I just finished installing body mounts on three Evans boxcars, which needed extended draft gear, and made my own from styrene strips,  using the Accumates.  It's easy to do, but being able to simply swap the couplers and glue the part on would be even simpler.

 

[crrcoal]

Can you post a pic or two of what you did? Thank you!

[nkalanaga]

No, but I can describe it in a few sentences.  It really is that easy. 

You will need Evergreen styrene strips, unless you want to cut your own, which is a pain.  I used 0.015 x 0.060, 0.015 x 3/16 (0.188), 0.060 round, and, optional, 0.040 x 5/32.  You will also need a hobby knife and a 1/16 inch drill.

Take a strip of the 0.015 x 3/16 and cut it in half.  You can use the whole strip, but half of it is easier to handle.  Mark a line down the center with a pencil.

Glue a piece of 0.015 x 0.060 to the top of each edge, making a 0.075 x 3/16 channel.  Be generous with the glue, so there are no gaps.

Let the glue dry thoroughly, a week or so won't hurt

Optional:  Glue pieces of the 0.040 x 5/32 between the sides for strength.  You'll need to leave a 1/4 inch gap for each coupler, so it might be easier to make a few before you start using the spacers, just to see how everything goes together.

Decide how long you want your boxes.  If they're too long, they can be trimmed later, at the bolster end, so don't be stingy.  Mark 1/8 inch from one end, on the center line, and drill a 1/16 inch hole.  Don't cut the boxes apart yet, they're easier to handle in a strip.

Taper the end of the round rod a little, stick it through the hole from the outside, and cut it off.  Leave about 1/4 inch on the open side of the channel, and glue it into the hole.  Again. make sure it's solid, and straight.  Repeat for however many pieces your making.

When that's dry, you can trim the excess from the outside, where you cut the rod, and cut the boxes from the strip. 

Take  the rest of your 0.015 x 3/16 strip and drill 1/16 inch holes in it for cover plates.  They only have to be about 1/14 inch long, but can be longer if you wish.  Make the hole 1/18 inch from one end, to match the boxes.

Paint the inside of the boxes and cover plates, as you won't be able to do that later.  Actually, I paint the boxes, and clean the top of the sides so they'll glue well, but use a black permanent maker on the cover plates.  Plastic cement will glue through that, and it's easier than cleaning the edges for gluing.

Put the couplers in the boxes, making sure the spring whiskers are inside, and put the cover plates over the pins.  Seat the covers well, hold them together, and try the couplers.  They should move freely.

If they do, carefully glue the edges of the covers to the channel, and the pin into the hole.  Most of mine fit tight enough that they'll stay without the glue, for a while, but the glue is needed.  Try not to clue the coupler in place, but if a little gets inside, don't worry.

When everything is dry, work the couplers back and forth a few times.  Plastic cement won't stick to the couplers, so even if they've stuck, once they break loose, you're fine.  Trim and smooth the excess pin sticking through the cover plate.

Glue the boxes to the underframe, or use crews behind the coupler, whichever works best.  Paint the outside to suit.

These aren't detailed draft gear models, just plain rectangular tubes, but they work.  If the first few don't work well, you haven't lost much, as the couplers will still be good, and plastic strips are cheap.  The result is 3/32 by 3/16 inch, 15 x 30 N scale inches, or about the size of a 1025 box.  I haven't had problems using these, on 50 ft cars, and 11 inch radius curves.

[crrcoal]

Awesome. Thank you!!

[delamaize]

I just came here to post this and run.....

[peteski]

I just came here to post this and run.....

I agree.  Slinky or not, MT couplers rule!

But if you were like me, you would keep posting that message over and over (like I do about my dislike of Digitrax) until members start throwing virtual rotten tomatoes at me. 

[Spades]

Or wutters boxes: https://images1.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_4179459_13526388_1450863186.jpg

[nkalanaga]

Three problems with the 1015s, from my perspective:

They make lousy extended draft gear, when using the stock MT parts.  One has to mount them ON something, which means the floor has to raised to adjust for the mounting pad.  1025s have the same problem, but they're a little longer, and I can get away with thinner pads, because the longer box keeps it more rigid.

The boxes are thicker than the 1025s, or my Accumates, and look clunky hanging from the end of a car.  The 1025 box is a reasonable size and shape for many extended draft gears, and is what I used for years.

1015s cost money, that is in short supply.  With 1025s, I have a lifetime supply of draft gear boxes, and can reuse the MT truck mounted couplers.  Using my own boxes, I can do the same with Accumates, so either way, no need to buy a new coupler.  I could use McHenrys, but I don't really like them, as I've had several lose their springs, and have never been able to repair one.  I don't remove them, unless I have to, but when I do, they get an MT or Accumate replacement.

The only place I routinely install 1015s is on locomotives, most of which are designed for them.  They work fine, and don't look bad in a diesel pilot, so there's no reason to cobble up a substitute.  And, if manufacturers want to use them in freight cars, that's fine, especially when they supply their own draft gear, as that often looks better than any aftermarket conversion. 

Spades:  If he would make them longer, so they could be used as extended draft gear, he'd have what I suggested.  They couldn't be solvent cemented to the car, but other glues should work fine, and one could always drill a hole behind the coupler and screw it on.

[Mark5]

MTL needs to make an Extended Draft Gear box for peeps that want to move into the 21st century (N scale wise).

That said I like and use accumates as well.

Mark

[nkalanaga]

Mark:  I've wanted MT to make one for a long time.  Either 1015s or 1025s would work, as they wouldn't have to use the overly thick 1015 box they now have.  Put a pin on the cover plate, that press-fits into the screw hole, then a real screw hole behind the coupler, and half an inch or so of center sill behind THAT.  The 1015 would have the advantage here, because it's shorter.  The modeler could cut any extra behind the screw to fit the car, drill and tap a hole where needed, and it's ready to go.

And it's not just a 21st century thing, anyone modeling the 1960s on could use a bunch of them.  Most of MTs cars fit the extended draft gear era, even if the particular car didn't have them.

[Mark5]

NK,

My comment wasnt about when these appeared on the rails (I was there), it's that we're here in the 21st century and MTL does not offer extended couplers for those that body mount.

Mark

[Wutter]

Thanks Spades for the plug. I'll chime in here as well, I think for what this thread is trying to accomplish, the coupler boxes on my store are a great way to convert to body mounts that are compatible with MT, Accumate and McHenry couplers.

I'm not sure what the exact MT number is, but the boxes are designed to work with the couplers that come in the MT truck mounts. Simply cut off the box on your trucks and swap over the internals to the new body mount.

I have Extended Cushion, Medium Extension as well as Standard gear versions available in multiple quantities.



http://shpws.me/KVMh



http://shpws.me/Lc0j



http://shpws.me/Lc0k

[amato1969]

Very nice!  I have two Atlas 60' auto parts cars that these may work for...

I was going to order a batch of Bowser/Lee English couplers, but the "long" extensions shown here may do the trick!

  Frank

[nkalanaga]

Mark:  I misunderstood you.  Sorry!

Wutter:  Those MT truck mounts are 1025s, my favoite coupler, and the first N scale couplers made by Kadee, way back when.  Looking closer at the pictures I can see the holes for the pins on the MTs.  I had the same idea of reusing the truck mounted couplers, but took the easy way, and ordered 500 pair of 1025 boxes and lids a few years ago...

Your parts are exactly what I was suggesting.