Author Topic: Etched Brass Building Construction Techniques  (Read 2302 times)

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basementcalling

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Etched Brass Building Construction Techniques
« on: October 27, 2015, 03:59:36 PM »
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I'm about ready to resort to bubble gum to get a couple etched brass kits to assemble and for parts to stay together.

I've been using various ACC glues in as small amounts as possible with a pin in use for application. A thicker ACC gel, a medium viscosity hobby brand version, and a fast thin formula all produce the same result. Parts that stick, but fall off at the slightest movement of the stair tower structure.

Should I have bathed the parts in vinegar to add some tooth to the brass first? Should I toss out 3 different bottles of super glue because they are defective? I'm using small amounts, but enough that leaves a visible amount once the joint breaks that I then remove with an Xacto blade before regluing.

All the extra handling involved is not good for hand rails and other delicate parts. I've finally gotten my bending skills up to par with a couple larger bending tools I got from Northern Tool and modified to allow a firm accurate grip, but I'm losing my grip on sanity because the parts, now bent square, won't stay attached even if I bump the cutting board too hard.

Peter Pfotenhauer

peteski

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Re: Etched Brass Building Construction Techniques
« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2015, 04:13:20 PM »
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Soldering is your friend my friend.  Can't make any stronger or more reliable joint than that.  Here is a good example: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=35891.0
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Chris333

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Re: Etched Brass Building Construction Techniques
« Reply #2 on: October 27, 2015, 05:35:51 PM »
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And don't solder after gluing. The heat will destroy the glue joint.

basementcalling

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Re: Etched Brass Building Construction Techniques
« Reply #3 on: October 27, 2015, 07:15:16 PM »
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Soldering is your friend my friend.  Can't make any stronger or more reliable joint than that.  Here is a good example: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=35891.0

So instead of gluing fingers together I can burn them?  :drool:

What about solder after gluing in spots? Would the ACC wick the solder along the joint? Fumes would be a bad issue though.
Peter Pfotenhauer

peteski

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Re: Etched Brass Building Construction Techniques
« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2015, 07:32:27 PM »
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No Peter, pre-gluing and soldering don't really mix.  Sounds like you might have to work on your assembly techniques.  :)  Maybe try making and using jigs which will hold the parts steady while gluing or soldering.
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basementcalling

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Re: Etched Brass Building Construction Techniques
« Reply #5 on: October 27, 2015, 10:46:00 PM »
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No Peter, pre-gluing and soldering don't really mix.  Sounds like you might have to work on your assembly techniques.  :)  Maybe try making and using jigs which will hold the parts steady while gluing or soldering.

That's what the instructions from Alkem suggest. But Bennie gets magical results with techniques others fail with.

Jigs for the stairway assemblies is probably the way to go, Ski. Never used em before. Looks like I picked the wrong week to super-sized my coffee cup.  :D
Peter Pfotenhauer

peteski

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Re: Etched Brass Building Construction Techniques
« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2015, 10:49:08 PM »
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... but this is a good week to start sniffing (burned) glue.  :D

Seriously. I don't see using glue for temporarily holding the parts being soldered. The melting temperature of regular (not low-temp) solder is much higher than melting/burning temperature of most glues (like CA glue).  So, if you try that technique, you I can see you inhaling lots of nasty CA glue fumes. Plus the burned glue residue will not allow the solder to wet (and stick to) the metal parts being soldered.

Even if you found a low-temp solder which melts before the glue burns up, the glue would also prevent the solder from wetting and sticking to the metal parts being soldered.
« Last Edit: October 27, 2015, 10:58:16 PM by peteski »
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sizemore

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Re: Etched Brass Building Construction Techniques
« Reply #7 on: November 19, 2015, 04:39:31 PM »
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Personally when I do EMD handrail stanchions, I used apoxy to secure it to stanchion to the body. Then flux all the stanchion pockets, lay the handrail in and hit it with the lightest bit of solder. Works like a charm. I use shims with a fiberboard top on the hood to ensure the stanchions are all perpendicular/square. Then use a Q-tip with a little lacquer thinner or acetone to clean up the flux. Then pull out the shim.

Flux and "high" heat is what really makes this work. A good digital soldering station can be had for about 50 samoleans.

Currently wrapping up an N Scale "MASH" helicopter, that for the most part is soldered with the exception of the rotors. Its very fine, tack and move.

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Mastertech

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Re: Etched Brass Building Construction Techniques
« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2015, 05:19:37 PM »
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ATTN; I'm no scientist or chemist but burning  Cyanoacrylate adhesives  without  oxygen will  produce >>>cyanide gas<<<. yup!! try not to sniff the burning glue!!
ttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate#Toxicity
BTW read the cotton part :scared: :scared: :scared:
my thought on this is to find a more flexible glue or solder is the best