Sss Corner office

[gary60s]

Corner Office building

Here is a corner office that can be used on a street corner or in an industrial area. Footprint is 2 x 2 1/2, it's an easy build, and can go anywhere on your layout. It can be done in wood but sketches are based on styrene thicknesses. If you use another material adjust dimensions accordingly. Paint parts before assembly, except where the edges glue to other parts.

The building directions and materials are in the sketches, and to make your build easier you can enlarge them to full size and print them out. Read directions in assembly sketches before cutting out parts as you may want to change some sizes or cut fewer, or additional, openings.
Included sketches are: Overview sketches, Parts templates,  Assembly sketches,  and PDF's.

To print the part templates actual size, use the PDF's. Select best printer quality, set PDF zoom to 100%, and page scaling to "none" or actual size. Check your printed page to see that 3" lines are exactly 3" long. Once you have template printed, you can cut with scissors (leave a 1/8" border) and arrange on your material for maximum sheet usage. Part templates for siding are a mirror image, when needed, so that you can cut walls with siding side down (easier to cut). Be sure siding grooves are oriented correctly. Use rubber cement or Krylon Easy Tack Repositionable Adhesive to glue paper templates to your material and then just cut on lines. No measuring ! Paper comes off easily.

Cut out parts carefully using a SERB and straight edge. The best way to cut out window openings is with a corner punch. It is important to follow assembly sketches IN SEQUENCE or some parts may not fit.


































https://www.dropbox.com/s/p4t60fz5h23u487/cobpt1pdf.pdf?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jfxvkxlnc7qp144/cobpt2pdf.pdf?dl=0

[pnolan48]

Neat building! I might redraw it for .020 styrene, which is the thickest I can cut with my digital cutter. Actually the cutter can probably handle .040, but not without a lot of groaning. And then it might be only score and snap, which is not good for windows.

[central.vermont]

I really love all these buildings you have done Gary but I am wondering if when you do a building such as this one with clapboard siding that you could draw it with the provision of using square stock on the edges to simulate corner trim. In the case of this building you are using .040 sheet and .040x.040 square stock could be used for the outside corners.
Just a suggestion.

Thanks, Jon

[gary60s]

Thanks for the compliment and the suggestion Jon.

Way back when I started making these sketch sets and doing the scratch building (about 5
years ago), a lot of thought went into how I was going to do the corners. At first I
beveled the wall edges at a 45 degree angle and glued them together. With plastic solvent
cement, this resulted in a strong joint, but beveling edges was an extra step that I felt
could be eliminated by using butt joints. With proper solvent cement gluing techniques
(i.e. capillary action, using clamps and/or magnets) the butt joints are very strong.
Evergreen's #291 angle (used for corner trim) perfectly covers the butt joints and adds
even more strength.
 
If you look at my other sketch sets and the assembly drawings, you will see that all wall
corners are staggered to make perfect butt joints.

Not to say your square stock method won't work, because I'm sure you've had great success
with it. I tried it with one corner, was obviously doing something wrong, gave up and went
to the butt joint method with angle trim to cover joints.

Thanks again for the suggestion, and I'm sure there are other scratch builders who use
your method.

Thanks, Gary

[pnolan48]

I use Gary's butt-joint method on nearly everything I build on ships. I have to remind myself that "the sides always clip the ends," and "floors are inside everything," or I end up with some pretty cock-eyed structures.