Calling Spookshow Mark

[ATSF_Ron]

I recently acquired a brand new Atlas SD45 in SP for a great price.  Out of the box, it has similar pickup issues as described by Spookshow Mark.  Mark, would you mind explaining how to get the truck bottom plates off?  I'm a bit hesitant to pry too hard on things and have never removed bottom plates off of a plastic diesel loco.  I'd like to clean the wheel axle pickups like you mentioned in your review.  Thanks in advance.

It's interesting, even after wheel tread cleaning with CRC the loco has so many stalls in DC mode that it's essentially useless.  But it's about 90% of where I want it to be operationally in DCC. There are still those occasional stalls in random places that result in sound stoppage.  Hopefully, cleaning the axle pickups solves that problem.  I immediately changed a few CV volumes, as the thing is painfully loud to my ears as delivered.  Especially the horn and bell.  I will say though, the horns sound amazing with the factory reverb dialed in!






It's interesting to me that while I was taking these photos on my ancient iPhone, I didn't notice a huge difference between the Atlas and the Kato.  Having uploaded the images though, wow!  The Kato's handrails almost look chunky in comparison, and I appreciate the truck details on the Atlas.  But realistically, on the layout from 2-3 feet away my 64-year-old eyes can't pickup too much of that these days.  Both models are great runners and pullers.  I just need to finish up the detailing on the Katos and get some typical SP grime on all of them!

[peteski]

Best way to get Mark's attention is to mention him like this: @spookshow

Also, you posted photos of multiple angles of the loco except the most important one: bottom view! 
Seeing how the truck cover plate looks could likely let members other than mark answer your question.

[ATSF_Ron]

Thanks Peteski!

@spookshow, here is the truck in question.  Thanks for any input, guys!

[GM50 4164]

Ron, the easiest method I found was to remove the couplers on both ends and pull the shell off. Then, I used a xacto knife to part the clips from the trucks. The bottom cover clips over a little nub on both ends of the truck assembly, the part with the gears and wheels. After that, the bottom gear/truck cover pulls away.

I posted pictures of the truck disassembled in the SD45 thread here. Page 3, reply 37
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=58341.30

[ednadolski]

I used a xacto knife to part the clips from the trucks. The bottom cover clips over a little nub on both ends of the truck assembly, the part with the gears and wheels. After that, the bottom gear/truck cover pulls away.

I always get a bit nervous abut using something too sharp that could damage the plastic (or a finger).  One way I like to do it is to use the tips of a tweezers to push on two of the nubs at the same time (which also helps to separate the two halves of the truck).  Mainly it is a matter of finding the right place to push with the tweezers, then the truck pops apart without too much effort.


Ed

[peteski]

Like Ed, I also  use tweezers as a 2-prong pry bar to unlock the little nubs with hooks.  It allows to release both at the same time.

As far as Atlas/Kato comparison goes, I don't really see much difference in the handrail thickness. Atlas handrails are painted while Kato is bare plastic but to me they seem to be close in diameter.

But the surface details on Atlas hood (the doors and latches) seem very exaggerated. I think the more subtle doors and latches on Kato hood look more prototypical.

[spookshow]

What they said 

-Mark

[tehachapifan]

Regarding those (gorgeous) Atlas N SD45's, it's possible to make the gyralite work (if you are willing to do without the interior cab light). Someone posted the how-to here on TRW and I did the modification with mine. Woks great! It's a matter of switching a couple wires and some (careful) resoldering. For whatever reason, these got delivered with the interior cab light being set up on an output that can be programmed as a gyralite, but the actual gyralite got wired to the headlight output with the headlight. I'm going to assume this mod would void the warranty. I'll look for that thread later but got to run for now.