Anderson Power Pole Pullouts

[Maletrain]

I Just spent the afternoon tracking down a short in one loop of an N-Trak module layout.  In the process, I found that most of the modules were electrically connected only by the rail joiners for that loop.  In fact, the short was on a module bus wire disconnected at both ends, with one set of feeders still attached to the rails and the other set pulled out (under the layout) and twisted together, so that they made intermittent contact.   

Many of the disconnected Power Pole connectors had the wires pulled out of their connectors, and others had their plugs disconnected. 

I am going to repair that bus to connect all modules, but I need to get some more knowledge about the Power Poles, which I have not used before.  I did find some written instructions and a U-Tube video on them.

What I am wondering is whether I can reuse the existing plugs, or do I need to buy new ones.  The crimp-on contacts seem to still be in the plugs, and I saw that they are held there by a flat spring clip.  Is there some easy way to get them out to reuse, or should I throw away the existing plugs + clips and just buy new ones?  I think they are the 30 amp version.

I also need to locate a good crimping tool, and am not sure if the club still has one stashed somewhere, so recommendations on that too, please.

[MK]

Funny you brought this up.  I just spent the past hour making some T-Trak buses for my club using Anderson Power Poles.

Most important thing is use a genuine PP crimper.  Avoid imitations, counterfeits, pliers, etc.  That's probably the reason why the wires got pulled out.  I made a ton of buses and what we call "spiders" that sit between buses that branch out to Kato connectors.  They have been in use for a while traveling from train show to train show.  And it's not just me handling them so it has gone through Joe Club Member testing and from different clubs too.  They all held up.

The colored shells are not gauge specific.  And as you noticed there's a flat metal tang/spring in each.  As you push a connector in, the "finger" of the connector goes past the tang and snaps in making a connection.

You can reuse the shells IF you are careful in removing the crimped connector.  Take a small jewelers screwdriver and gently lift the finger of the connector until it clears the tang and then pull out the connector wire.  The tang is pretty robust but it can be bent improperly if you are not careful.

Also, when crimping be sure that the split in a connector faces the correct direction.  Look at the crimper tool and you'll see a "wedge" on one side.  The split in the connector faces this wedge.  During the crimp the wedge actually splits the connector and forces the edge to curve and dig into the wire.  The cross section of the connector should look like this after a proper crimp: oo

Lastly, use the correct connector based on the wire gauge you are using.  There are 3 types, 15A, 30A and 45A.  Each accepts certain wire gauge.

Done correctly (every step) Anderson PP are pretty much bullet proof.

[cec209]

That is an excellent explanation by MK.

I have done at least 1000+ PowerPole connectors and I can't emphasize enough that using the crimper from PowerPoles is the best and easiest way to make foolproof crimps.

PowerPoles sells a tool (about $10.00) to help insert and remove the metal connector from the plastic shell but the small screwdriver MK suggests will usually do the job.  Be patient, these can be challenging at times.

[peteski]

Yes, crimping (using the proper crimper and using proper gauge wire which is not too loose) is the recommended way to go. But as an alternative wire can be soldered into the Power Pole terminal. If done correctly that works just as well as crimping, but the solder joint needs to be made properly (using flux and making sure the solder wicked into the joint).

[Maletrain]

It looks like the price of crimping tools has inflated well beyond $10.  The least expensive I am finding are $25, and they quickly go to $60, $99 and even hundreds of $.

So, looking for recommendations.  This tool has good reviews, but those could even be fakes, these days.  https://www.amazon.com/APIOLO-Connectors-Compatible-Electrical-Connections/dp/B0C6LDPWKV/ref=sr_1_5

[peteski]

It looks like the price of crimping tools has inflated well beyond $10.  The least expensive I am finding are $25, and they quickly go to $60, $99 and even hundreds of $.

So, looking for recommendations.  This tool has good reviews, but those could even be fakes, these days.  https://www.amazon.com/APIOLO-Connectors-Compatible-Electrical-Connections/dp/B0C6LDPWKV/ref=sr_1_5

I believe the quality of the crimp is directly related to the tool's cost.  The NTRAK club I belong to bought a crimping tool when we were converting to Power Poles.  They club's funds paid for it and everybody in the club has access to it.  I believe its price was on the upper end of the spectrum. Industrial quality ratcheting crimper. It works really well.

[Lemosteam]

It looks like the price of crimping tools has inflated well beyond $10.  The least expensive I am finding are $25, and they quickly go to $60, $99 and even hundreds of $.

So, looking for recommendations.  This tool has good reviews, but those could even be fakes, these days.  https://www.amazon.com/APIOLO-Connectors-Compatible-Electrical-Connections/dp/B0C6LDPWKV/ref=sr_1_5

I think @cec209 was referring to a pin/receiver removal tool at $10.  I paid $22 (now $14) for this Gardner Bender crimp tool many years ago.  I recommend crimp and solder.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00079LN1Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

[Maletrain]

The "upper end" of the price range is very "upper"!  For instance, see https://powerwerx.com/anderson-1309g2-powerpole-crimping-tool-15-30-amp for $280, and it doesn't even do 45 amp connectors - that costs another $280 ( https://powerwerx.com/anderson-1309g3-powerpole-crimping-tool-45-amp ).

And this will all be out of my pocket, not club money.  I intend to use it for T-Trak module power buses as well as fixing this N-Trak layout.  But, I am already putting hundreds of $ per year into the club, and am looking at other needs there too (not to mention my own).

So I would really like to find a good tool for a decent price.

[Sokramiketes]

I think @cec209 was referring to a pin/receiver removal tool at $10.  I paid $22 (now $14) for this Gardner Bender crimp tool many years ago.  I recommend crimp and solder.

I was of the crimp and solder, belt and suspenders, mindset too.  Now, especially for a traveling layout, I'm in the "proper crimp" and no solder camp.

A couple courses in race car wiring changed my perspective.  Harsher environments, lots of vibration, solderjoints lead to inflexible wire, work hardening, and points of failure.  Much of the race car stuff is based in MilSpec standards.

I haven't taken to concentric twisted wiring harnesses... yet... though I really want to try that sometime.  I do like barrel crimps and the two layer heatshrink for wiring connections though.  That's been a game changer. 

Check out https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/learn-motorsport-wiring/  if you find yourself wiring a big modular layout...

[MK]

We have been using this exact one for years and years with 100% success.  You don't need to spend $280.

https://powerwerx.com/tricrimp-powerpole-connector-crimping-tool

I agree with Mike.  I'm a solder guy through and through but for PP I crimp only.  Once you add solder and if you are not skillful, you can create an interference (from the solder) on the connector preventing it from going into the plastic shells easily or even at all.

Crimping, if done correctly, is actually more reliable and will last pretty much forever, when compared to soldering.  Soldering creates a stress point at the point where the solder ends and the wire begins.  Now in our little N-scale world, which is not Milspec, it may not matter.  But the discussion here is for buses and T-Trak module connections where things can be roughly handled by many different people many times a year. 

[peteski]

We have been using this exact one for years and years with 100% success.  You don't need to spend $280.

https://powerwerx.com/tricrimp-powerpole-connector-crimping-tool

Actually I believe that is the tool my club owns (I haven't seen it for some time). It has machined steel dies, handles 3 sizes of pins, and the long ratcheting action arms assure proper crimping pressure.  I guess it is less expensive than I thought.  It is a quality tool.

[cec209]

I use the TriCrimp tool, too. Around $45.00 isn't bad, considering it can handle the 3 most used PowerPole sizes.

[ridinshotgun]

As important as the tool is to make sure you use the correctly sized metal crimp tab.  Most people order the regular 15/30/45 amp plug assortment but it usually only comes with the 30 amp metal insert made for 12-14 gauge wire.  They are too big  to attain a proper crimp for smaller feeder wires.  You have to shell out for the 15 amp inserts  for 16-20 gauge wire.

That tool from Powereworx is the best tool I have used at a good price point.  Once I got the proper inserts I have never had a crimp fail with that tool.

[peteski]

As important as the tool is to make sure you use the correctly sized metal crimp tab.  Most people order the regular 15/30/45 amp plug assortment but it usually only comes with the 30 amp metal insert made for 12-14 gauge wire.  They are too big  to attain a proper crimp for smaller feeder wires.  You have to shell out for the 15 amp inserts  for 16-20 gauge wire.

Exectly.  As I also mentioned earlier it is important to use the correct wire gauge with correct pin size. Or as you put it, use correct pin for the wire gauge being used.  If the pin is too large for the wire it will not get properly crimped (loose).

[Maletrain]

I'll check the diameter of the wires that pulled out when I get to the club again on Wednesday.  I am guessing 12AWG from memory.  Plus the N-Trak Standard is for 30 amp Anderson Power Pole connectors.  But, I will make sure before I buy.  Can't get the tool and parts delivered before Wednesday, anyway.