Attaching Unitrack to T-TRAK modules

[Dave V]

OK, T-TRAKers,

What's your preferred way to attach Unitrack to T-TRAK modules?

I know if you're on foam, you have limited options other than glue of various types.

Now, I have seen pre-made T-TRAK modules (like the one I bough) that have screw-holes in the roadbed that align with the screw holes in the bottom of the Unitrack. Does anyone know what size screw that is?

Since the Unitrack is the structural connection between modules, I understand it'll undergo shearing stress in a way it wouldn't on a non-modular layout...want to make sure that what I do is sufficiently strong.

Thanks in advance!

[squirrelhunter]

I used to use marklin screws, but I don't think they make the right size anymore, the last time I needed screws I got Rokuhan ones from Z scale hobo.

https://zscalehobo.com/rokuhan/screws.html

[Ed Kapuscinski]

When I'm burying it, I use a bead of Tacky Glue along the ballast shoulder.

When I'm not, I'll often just use a couple big blobs of liquid nails under the track.

[Point353]

[Dave V]

When I'm burying it...

<raises_eyebrow>

Perfect, thanks!

[timwatson]

I personally don’t recommend foam based ttrak modules. We have 10+ year old modules that have giant sags across the middle. I’ve only used Masonite and cork on top for my modules. I hope that helps.

[randgust]

Yeah, if anything, I've found out that the vertical Kato rail joiner connections on Ttrak are the weak link, there's more vertical play and stress there than anyplace else.  You can end up with a really rough joint, or a lifted end, or all kinds of mischief.

I've taken to drilling a hole and putting a tiny wood screw on my Kato ends as it seems like any nail I use pulls out, and any glue eventually gives.  But that just forces the problem to the rail joiner rather than springing the track.

But even with that, stuff happens.   Last year at Altoona I had Atlas GP's snagging pilots on track joints and a Kato GE-P42 snagging the pilot and derailing. 

I carry a short straightedge, and some thin shims, as just clicking them together ain't good enough.

[wm3798]

I build up the base with foam, but then use a bit of 1/4" plywood that is glued and screwed to the frame.  On the bridge modules recently completed, where only about 3" of track is mounted to anything, I used 1/2" that was secured through the foam block to the base plywood.



The track is installed with a blob of liquid nails, then I run a screed of the same glue along the edge of the roadbed to stabilize it, and that gets bedded with ballast.  I don't do the screws.  Ain't nobody got time for dat.

Lee

[bman]

I personally don’t recommend foam based ttrak modules. We have 10+ year old modules that have giant sags across the middle. I’ve only used Masonite and cork on top for my modules. I hope that helps.

I second this. I wound up replacing the foam base with wood on 2 of our club's Ttrak modules. The foam of each module wound up sagging to the point everything would uncouple at each module end due to the angle of the track in relation to the adjoining module. Do as Lee has done. You'll thank Lee later. 

As far as attaching track I have used small screws here and there drilling from the top then a dab of paint to match. I then run ballast(Pick your favorite mix) down the shoulders and middle and secure with the tried and true 50/50 white glue water mix with mixed with your favorite wetting agent. It's seemed to work so far over the past 4 years and the beating modules tend to take.
 

[Pizzaparty]

I’ve used silicone bath caulking. It holds it in place and has a small amount of give. My module is about 5 years old and I haven’t had any issues