Unitrack painting problem

[thomasjmdavis]

Multiple passes with a rail paint pen built up some color… I am fairly satisfied with how the ties look painted, but I feel like I’m not quite there on the rail yet. I’m also not 100% certain that the rail paint is going to remain colorfast… It seems to be bonded with hope and ignorance than an actual chemical bond.

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Given the amount of difficulty you've had painting, I am curious... When this shipment of rail came in, did you check to see if it electric current passed through whatever was coating it?  Any oil type substance should have been removed by any number of things you tried (generally the dishwater and toothbrush would take care of it).  It almost seems like there was a conversion varnish or acrylic lacquer or something sprayed on it- which I would think would cause electrical pick-up issues.  The other possibility that occurs to me is that Kato just polished that batch to the point there was nothing for the paint to grab on to.

My go-to cleaner is 90% alcohol.  If that doesn't work, Simple Green. And if necessary, an overnight soak.  It doesn't seem to harm most plastics, but takes off most paint.  And if you soak plastics, they will smell like Simple Green, no matter how much you rinse them, until you get a coat of paint on.  Do NOT try this will resin castings- I've had a couple bad experiences with severe warping.  But the polystyrene of the average injected molded N scale carbody seems to come through the ordeal fine.

[Dave V]

Given the amount of difficulty you've had painting, I am curious... When this shipment of rail came in, did you check to see if it electric current passed through whatever was coating it?  Any oil type substance should have been removed by any number of things you tried (generally the dishwater and toothbrush would take care of it).  It almost seems like there was a conversion varnish or acrylic lacquer or something sprayed on it- which I would think would cause electrical pick-up issues.  The other possibility that occurs to me is that Kato just polished that batch to the point there was nothing for the paint to grab on to.

My go-to cleaner is 90% alcohol.  If that doesn't work, Simple Green. And if necessary, an overnight soak.  It doesn't seem to harm most plastics, but takes off most paint.  And if you soak plastics, they will smell like Simple Green, no matter how much you rinse them, until you get a coat of paint on.  Do NOT try this will resin castings- I've had a couple bad experiences with severe warping.  But the polystyrene of the average injected molded N scale carbody seems to come through the ordeal fine.

I haven't hooked them up to power.

But note that I did make forward progress on painting to my satisfaction.

[robert3985]

Ahem... https://conrail1285.com/hacked-unitrack/

You don't even need it at the ends.

Wellll...that's cool!

Thanks Ed!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Depends upon the/your definition of works "fine".
Suppose that someone wants to run trains with 'pizza cutter' wheel flanges, for example, that run "fine" on Unitrack but don't run "fine" on a module with non-conforming track.
Do you then exclude the trains or the module?

The only time that's an issue is if they're using track that causes problems, not that it doesn't match the standard. And in that case, I don't know, I'd hope everyone's cool enough to resolve the situation amicably.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Wellll...that's cool!

Thanks Ed!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

I'm actually working on a "technology demonstrator" module to show it off at Altoona.

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[dem34]

I'm actually working on a "technology demonstrator" module to show it off at Altoona.

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You should snap it onto that one off handlay module I did as a test.

[dem34]

Depends upon the/your definition of works "fine".
Suppose that someone wants to run trains with 'pizza cutter' wheel flanges, for example, that run "fine" on Unitrack but don't run "fine" on a module with non-conforming track.
Do you then exclude the trains or the module?

I would diplomatically explain that its 2024 and that is not an issue for the bulk of attendees. In the same way I often have to occasionally remind beforehand that Rapido Comets will not work on most of our setups unless they are modified with longer coupler shanks. Or that if a Car keeps derailing and holding up the parade it needs to be sidelined. And likewise, if a module fails to work properly with %90 of stock it needs to be sidelined for the show. Its of course courtesy that if its an easily resolved issue that one offers to help resolve it. But its not uncommon at shows to have to as nicely as possible tell guys that their rolling stock may not work well on the current setup. Or that if a module has such a bad miswiring job that we need to do open heart surgery on it, it needs a once over at a meeting before I will allow it back on the roster.

[Point353]

I'm actually working on a "technology demonstrator" module to show it off at Altoona.

Will those rail joiners on the rear/yellow track work "fine" will all trains/wheels?

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Will those rail joiners on the rear/yellow track work "fine" will all trains/wheels?

I'd assume so, they're the Kato ones.

That's a bit of a tricky situation: they're engaging the wrong part of the Peco code 55 "double web".

I don't think I'd recommend using the Peco stuff honestly, but I wanted to include it here to show it can be done.

[peteski]

The metal part of Kato Joiners is very deep. Can't you coax it to engage the bottom part of the Peck C55 rail? As shown they look like they are too high and be caught by wheel flanges.

[dem34]

The metal part of Kato Joiners is very deep. Can't you coax it to engage the bottom part of the Peck C55 rail? As shown they look like they are too high and be caught by wheel flanges.

I think if you wanted this to work nicer the "easisest" way is to file off the center profile with a thin file or a small grinding disk. The bottom profile is generally compatible with other Code 80 track.

[Point353]

I'd assume so, they're the Kato ones.

That's a bit of a tricky situation: they're engaging the wrong part of the Peco code 55 "double web".

I don't think I'd recommend using the Peco stuff honestly, but I wanted to include it here to show it can be done.

Have you tried the Kato 20-045 conversion track pieces?

[Dave V]

Have you tried the Kato 20-045 conversion track pieces?

Those should theoretically work with Peco code 55, right?

[Ed Kapuscinski]

The metal part of Kato Joiners is very deep. Can't you coax it to engage the bottom part of the Peck C55 rail? As shown they look like they are too high and be caught by wheel flanges.

Yep. Did it already. Just realized it was like that after seeing the photo.

[arbomambo]

Have you tried the Kato 20-045 conversion track pieces?

This kato piece is designed to transition to Tomy track-in-roadbed, to use it for any other track you have to shim it quite a bit.
Better to save money and just shim whatever track you’re going to connect to a regular piece of Unitrack.