The N scale Pennsy Juniata Division 2.0 - TTrak!

[Dave V]

Because who doesn't love a good layout engineering thread?

I inventoried my remaining N scale stuff, and I actually have enough rolling stock right now to do Pennsy:

2 x Bachman K4s 4-6-2 (one pre-war, one post war)
1 x BLI M1a 4-8-2 (post-war)
1 x GG1 (in shadow keystone)
3 x PRR cabins (2 N5s and an N5c, all shadow keystone, all with Trainphone antennas)
ALL of my heavyweights
Assorted freight cars.

So, was watching Youtube and found a channel featuring these module kits:

https://klawndyke.com/catalog/

I know that there are cheaper options but something about the precision involved in these kits appeals to me.

I was also gratified to learn that testing my M1 on 11" radius curves suggested I can go with the smaller radius endcaps just to get going.

So, just to clear the air:

1) This doesn't replace the RGS
2) For now, this doesn't replace the Colorado Midland...thought the latter I may be willing to sell as a whole with trains but for some serious dinero.
3) This is so that I can make forward progress on a Pennsy layout for when I move back to Pennsylvania in 5-6 years without having to make a decision right now on whether I want to quit HOn3 after the move.
4) This keeps me flexible for room size and shape someday.
5) For now the HOn3 Rio Grande Southern First District is my primary effort, but save for projects already un the queue, I plan to defer indefinitely any major capital improvements or major purchases.

So, some other rules:
1) TTrak means Unitrack with the exception of a siding or two. I look forward to the challenge associated with "dressing it up."
2) No helixes (LOL).
3) Need to go DCC since the M1 really, really requires a staggering amount of startup voltage from a DC power pack. Besides, all my steamers have sound, so why wouldn't I want to use it?

Some other ideas:
1) I would like to do a PRR interlocking with a tower, which means I'm back in the market for a PRR tower and operating LED position light signals.
2) I would like to do a set of urban modules and a set of rural (Middle Division-like) modules.
3) I would like maybe to do a stone arch bridge (it really isn't Pennsy without one).

This will be a slooooooooooow roll. I think to make my return to s acale I sold out of, and to pay for replacement of items I already sold to friends at bargain prices, I'm going to try to finance this as much as I can by liquidating other stuff. Stay tuned to the Trading Post for some Hon30 items. I may also sell off one of my Blackstone C-19s that I have way too many of.

It's been 7 years since I modeled PRR. Yet the lure of the Standard Railroad of the World never fully faded (any more than my love of the Rio Grande Southern ever waned during my Pennsy days). It's time I have the best of both worlds, and time I returned to modeling America's Broad Way of Commerce.

When we return to PA in 5 or 6 years, I'll have modules to take to N Scale Weekend.

[eja]

Can't wait to see it !  I know it is going to be inspirational.

 

[Chris333]

Downvote because no helixes!   

[dem34]

Because who doesn't love a good layout engineering thread?

I inventoried my remaining N scale stuff, and I actually have enough rolling stock right now to do Pennsy:

2 x Bachman K4s 4-6-2 (one pre-war, one post war)
1 x BLI M1a 4-8-2 (post-war)
1 x GG1 (in shadow keystone)
3 x PRR cabins (2 N5s and an N5c, all shadow keystone, all with Trainphone antennas)
ALL of my heavyweights
Assorted freight cars.

So, was watching Youtube and found a channel featuring these module kits:

https://klawndyke.com/catalog/

I know that there are cheaper options but something about the precision involved in these kits appeals to me.

I was also gratified to learn that testing my M1 on 11" radius curves suggested I can go with the smaller radius endcaps just to get going.

So, just to clear the air:

1) This doesn't replace the RGS
2) For now, this doesn't replace the Colorado Midland...thought the latter I may be willing to sell as a whole with trains but for some serious dinero.
3) This is so that I can make forward progress on a Pennsy layout for when I move back to Pennsylvania in 5-6 years without having to make a decision right now on whether I want to quit HOn3 after the move.
4) This keeps me flexible for room size and shape someday.
5) For now the HOn3 Rio Grande Southern First District is my primary effort, but save for projects already un the queue, I plan to defer indefinitely any major capital improvements or major purchases.

So, some other rules:
1) TTrak means Unitrack with the exception of a siding or two. I look forward to the challenge associated with "dressing it up."
2) No helixes (LOL).
3) Need to go DCC since the M1 really, really requires a staggering amount of startup voltage from a DC power pack. Besides, all my steamers have sound, so why wouldn't I want to use it?

Some other ideas:
1) I would like to do a PRR interlocking with a tower, which means I'm back in the market for a PRR tower and operating LED position light signals.
2) I would like to do a set of urban modules and a set of rural (Middle Division-like) modules.
3) I would like maybe to do a stone arch bridge (it really isn't Pennsy without one).

This will be a slooooooooooow roll. I think to make my return to s acale I sold out of, and to pay for replacement of items I already sold to friends at bargain prices, I'm going to try to finance this as much as I can by liquidating other stuff. Stay tuned to the Trading Post for some Hon30 items. I may also sell off one of my Blackstone C-19s that I have way too many of.

It's been 7 years since I modeled PRR. Yet the lure of the Standard Railroad of the World never fully faded (any more than my love of the Rio Grande Southern ever waned during my Pennsy days). It's time I have the best of both worlds, and time I returned to modeling America's Broad Way of Commerce.

When we return to PA in 5 or 6 years, I'll have modules to take to N Scale Weekend.

Can't wait to see them at Altoona when that time comes.
And yeah. In terms of off the shelf modules. Spend a little more. Being able to just click things together saves a lot of trauma if there isn't any flights of fancy going in the dimensions. Personally I just say avoid CMR's non box kits. (They seem to expect you to have a belt sander to finish off 45 deg joints).

I know Showcase makes the signal equipment needed. But you may need to get creative if you want Catenary.

[wm3798]

Why wait?  It's a whole three weeks until the Altoona Show.  You can do it!
Lee

[Point353]

3) Need to go DCC since the M1 really, really requires a staggering amount of startup voltage from a DC power pack. Besides, all my steamers have sound, so why wouldn't I want to use it?

https://www.modelrectifier.com/product-p/0001200.htm

[keeper]

The modules you mentioned look very nice.

Do it!

[Dave V]

That's good... I need something cheap. The only issue is all my locomotives have DCC so I would need the ability to operate two trains at once. But...given that the trains just go in circles on separate tracks, I might not need two throttles.

I'm debating for a first step using this double:



...to do a nice double-track fill with a PRR interlocking tower:



...which is a model of an actual PRR tower at Warren, PA, and works until I can scratchbuild a more Middle-Division-feeling tower. With two set sof crossovers from Kato:



...with the concrete ties painted like wood. And lastly, I would need some LED position light signals. Sadly I missed the nice ones NJI made. So that's an enigma for now.

So that's what I'm thinking for a first step.

[Cory Rothlisberger]

So, some other rules:
1) TTrak means Unitrack with the exception of a siding or two. I look forward to the challenge associated with "dressing it up."

Not sure you'll have trouble "dressing it up" sir. I'm STRUGGLING right now with the turnouts. Curious how you tackle those...

[Ed Kapuscinski]

FYI, if you're going to be dressing it up, start with the concrete tie stuff. You'll be painting it anyway and the ties are a good bit more "scale".

[Dave V]

FYI, if you're going to be dressing it up, start with the concrete tie stuff. You'll be painting it anyway and the ties are a good bit more "scale".

But the ties also have that "hourglass" profile meaning they don't look like wood ties.

[Dave V]

OK, question for you T Trak guys... I see that the standard is "Blue white white blue" for wiring. How do you deal with shorts across the crossovers? If I wanted to wire the whole thing for DCC, do I need a reverser or something?

[Ed Kapuscinski]

OK, question for you T Trak guys... I see that the standard is "Blue white white blue" for wiring. How do you deal with shorts across the crossovers? If I wanted to wire the whole thing for DCC, do I need a reverser or something?

You just hit on one of the things I deal with in my BANTRAK TTRAK box.

There is a pretty simple solution: just flip the polarity somewhere between your DCC system and the yellow track feeders. Alternatively, you can include an auto-reverser (I like the PSX-AR or OG-AR if you can find them).

[Dave V]

So, since crossovers are a pain... I'd still love to have them given how iconic they are, but in the standard T-Trak configuration, they'd cause a short. Are those Kato single crossovers already insulated/gapped, or would I need to cut gaps?

[Ed Kapuscinski]

So, since crossovers are a pain... I'd still love to have them given how iconic they are, but in the standard T-Trak configuration, they'd cause a short. Are those Kato single crossovers already insulated/gapped, or would I need to cut gaps?

For posterity: yes, they are insulated/gapped.