In defense of Puff Ball Trees

[chessie system fan]

Can you elaborate on this? I've not heard of this technique before and the results look really good.

Thanks.  I found the technique in an old N Scale mag from the '90s.  Basically, cut a very long piece of floral wire, put yarn "branches" in the middle, fold the wire over to pin the yarn in place, twist the wire, and then tease the yarn so that it's fluffy.

[wm3798]

Ah yes, one of the notorious Hundman 12 part treatises on over-modeling some minutiae on the layout.  Exhaustive research, and 27 color glossy photographs with circles and arrows.

Looks like an interesting way to make that ONE tree you need next to the front edge of the layout.

My photo references were purely related to the backdrops.  You'll notice that the modeled scene has more detailed trees in the foreground.

And I'll disagree with Ed on the photo backdrop argument.  Having a shallow 3-D something that helps the eye transition from the modeled environment to the back drop is mission critical in expanding the scene.  Puff ball trees, and for that matter building flats and other shallow details will always enhance the effect, because they will catch whatever the local lighting is, whether it's carefully planned track lighting in your layout room, or the ambient lighting of a train show hall, and all the highlights and shadows will be compatible with the built environment in front of them. 



The backdrop on my TTrak modules aren't even puff balls.  I glued coarse ground foam to the skyboard, 14" from the front edge, to provide the illusion of distance (puff balls would be way too big) in addition to some painted ridges.  This still provide enough texture to catch light and cast shadows consistent with the models in front.  I also used photos of models for the backdrop structures, combinded with "unfolded" DPM and other kits.  Can you tell which is which?  With a printed back drop, it would just look like there was no attempt at blending.

Your murky photos look good when photographed at just the right angle, but at some point the viewing angle is going to be skewed.  And as far as lighting goes, you have the advantage of modeling early winter where everything looks flat and miserable, which is compatible with the rest of your modeling. .

Those of us pursuing the look of an inhabited planet might prefer to have some texture to make the scenery work more effectively.

Lee

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Suck it, Trebeck.

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I can do summer this way too. My favorite part of THIS is using your OWN image against you. You shot the photo I'm using for that backdrop. Hahahahahahahahahahah.

I agree 100% about wanting the shallow relief for blending purposes though:



(By the way, for anyone who doesn't know, Lee and I have been friends for decades and this is friendly jesting.)

[Missaberoad]

I'm sure it's been said time and time again but Lee is a savage! 

Remind me never to trade barbs with him. 

(Obviously this post is in jest and respect)

[Sokramiketes]

This is part of my conundrum. Where does one find a cheap supply of that?  There's the woodland Scenics light green variety and the white kind used in pillows.  But what we need is a dark greyish brown.  And I'm skeptical about spray painting white polyester because some white will likely show through here and there.

It actually takes paint pretty well, and the light white fibers sprayed with browns and grays allows a nice varience in tone automatically. 

I haven't seen it rub off appreciably over time.  Check out the Modutrak thread for it used as undergrowth. 

[wm3798]

I started with white polyfiber and cheap flat black spray paint.




Once you get a good coat of wet paint on them, you roll them in some fine foliage ground foam.



Same experience.  No appreciable color loss.
Lee

[amato1969]

When Ed and Lee get after it... 

[CRL]

Has anyone tried using fabric dyes on the white polyfiber?

[wm3798]

Not yet, but logic dictates that as a plastic, the fibers aren't going to be very pourous, which dye needs to work properly.
I've always used spray paint since it's a topical application, gets reasonably good penetration to the inner bits, and while its wet and sticky you can apply your foliage pretty easily.

Now the other advantage Ed has with the photo backdrop is that in his dreary winter scene, puffballs don't work AT ALL, because they live or die with the foliage applied.  They don't work at all as nekkid winter trees.  His treatment of Super Trees as a late fall/winter element is actually pretty good.  So good, in fact, I use a picture of them as the backdrop for most of the 3D renderings I use to sell my clients on my designs...



I'll need to get a fresh shot though...  maybe something with a photo backdrop, what say you @Ed Kapuscinski ?

Frank Lloyd Wrong

[MK]

Has anyone tried using fabric dyes on the white polyfiber?

Not yet, but logic dictates that as a plastic, the fibers aren't going to be very pourous, which dye needs to work properly.

They have a product called RIT Dyemore for polyester, acrylic, acetate plus blends that contain those fibers.

https://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Rit-More-Liquid-Fabric/dp/B08Y98RH3P

[nscaler711]

@Ed Kapuscinski
To be fair, that "Summer w/ GP15 looks a tad foggy, while your foreground looks super clear. May I suggest using a fog machine on the next photo op?
 

My only problem with using actual photos for backgrounds is that they usually look too real next to our models/scenery.

Now there is something I have wanted to see, especially for backgrounds that are "further" from our focus which is normally the trains, is having photo backdrops that are just slightly out of focus. Kind of like how our eyes actually work.
Not sure if that makes sense, but it does in my head anyway.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

@Ed Kapuscinski
My only problem with using actual photos for backgrounds is that they usually look too real next to our models/scenery.

Lol, that is indeed a problem. But I view it as a challenge.