Bulletproof Code 30 (and smaller) Track Experiments

[Chris333]

This is some HOn30 track I printed flat. The detail was made to mimic Peco HOn30 track.

[Mark5]

Kudos for thinking outside of the box.

I would consider something like this for sidings. 

[robert3985]

Here's the tie spacing/size diagram I use for mainline/branchline/industrial sidings for my layout...which is an official UP Common Standard document:

Photo (1) - UP CS Tie Size, Tie Spacing Diagram for different use trackage w 39' rails:


I don't know if you've even considered spike patterns, but since you're printing your own tie/spikeheads/tieplates, you might find this information useful:

Photo (2) - UP Spike Patterns for different use track:


As for your tieplate and spikehead details disappearing after painting & weathering, the consensus among those of us experimenting with printing our own ties and tie strips is that for visibility's sake, tieplates need to be at least twice as high as they would be if scaled down to the "proper" dimensions.  Spikehead dimensions need to be increased also, by at least 200% height-wise and different enlargements in other dimensions.

Photo (3) - Just in case you don't have actual dimensions for spikes, here's an official diagram:


For your reference, here are three different tieplate diagrams...

Photo (4) - 8 hole tieplate:


Photo (5) - 6 hole tieplate:


Photo (6) - Tieplate for 90lb older light rail:


Modern tieplates are larger than pre-transition era tieplates, with more spikeholes, even for lightly used trackage.  Older trackage (pre-transition era) used smaller tie plates and lighter rail for both mainline and lightly used trackage.

It's interesting to note that older diagrams mention rail weight, but modern diagrams mention rail base width, which leads me to think that rail weight has been mostly standardized to maybe two different weights, with base sizes standardized between 5 1/2" and 6"...no matter what "use" the trackage is for.

Maybe you can use these for added accuracy for your printed tie experiments.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[chessie system fan]

That's exactly what I needed.  Thanks, Bob!

Fresh out of the printer, here is Z scale code 25 track compared to Micro Trains track.

[craigolio1]

Z scale Code 25!!  It looks so good.

Craig

[chuck geiger]

This would be over 100 if you used another brand of ballast with a tighter mix of colors like Arizona Rock and Mineral. Great work.

[PRRS]

This is stupendous!

Do you plan to offer the .stl files?

Now if only the turnouts were this easy.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Also with Kato rail.  You never have to clean it 

I've heard it also stops rounds up to 7.62×39mm.

[chessie system fan]

I'm not sure yet about the file, though if someone wants some prints I'd be happy to send some.  Though all of this is academic if turnouts don't work (I'm working on that next).

Doe anyone have any advice on how to file point rails consistently if the rail won't fit in a Fast Tracks jig?

[robert3985]

I'm not sure yet about the file, though if someone wants some prints I'd be happy to send some.  Though all of this is academic if turnouts don't work (I'm working on that next).

Doe anyone have any advice on how to file point rails consistently if the rail won't fit in a Fast Tracks jig?

My recommendation would be to make your frogs out of a different rail that WILL fit in a Fast Tracks filing fixture...and would still be held by your printed turnouts ties. You'd have to choose your rail.  ME Code70's railhead is too wide, but ME Code55 is only .001" (one one-thousandths of an inch) wider than the railhead on Kato rail.  With only 0.025" of the rail showing above the tieplates, that gives you .030" to play with below visible rail with Code55 rail.

Since prototypically frogs are separate from the rails going into and coming out of it, you could make a printed insert to hold your soldered-together frog, which would slide down into a matching cavity to hold it in position with the frog isolated with tiny gaps, with a hole in the frog insert to run a wire attached to the frog out of the bottom to power the frog if wanted.

Frog construction could be done on PCB ties, held in a consistent position by a printed fixture for added strength and ease of frog construction, the PCB ties also giving a good place to solder on the frog-powering wire lead...then, trim the PCB ties at the outer edges of the frog's rail feet, slip it into the printed insert, trim the frog's rail ends flush with the printed insert, then thread the frog power lead into the hole or cavity in the main turnout tie print, slip the insert with the attached frog into the matching cavity, and there ya go!

At least if I were you, this is where I'd start.

Here's a little "frog" information about frog lengths and the shape of the wing rails:

Photo (1) - U.P. Common Standard #6 and #7 Rigid Frogs:


Photo (2) - U.P. Common Standard #6 1/2 "Crotch" frog and common #9 mainline rigid frogs:


How long were the guardrails?  Where were they positioned on different sized frogs?  Here's some information...

Photo (3) - Guardrail positions for different sized turnouts:


Photo (4) - Guardrail diagram:


U.P. also used 11' guardrails and I have the info for them if you want it.

Maybe these diagrams will inform you of frog lengths, guardrail lengths and positions and be useful. 

If I were doing this, I would think strongly about printing the guardrails as part of your turnout tie platform rather than making them separately out of NS rail since the tops of these didn't get burnished by the passing wheels.  This would speed turnout construction up considerably and look more prototypical IMO.

Hmmm...you could also maybe print the frog wing rails too as part of the frog insert.  This would make the check gauge on your turnouts very consistent and also speed up frog construction.

Maybe these diagrams will assist you to get your turnouts looking more prototypical.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Cajonpassfan]

This is a great experiment; following closely....
Sorry if I missed it, but what is the dimension between top of tie plate and top of rail, ie what size flange will this accommodate?
Also a comment: I don't mind oversized ballast with my code 55 rail, I actually prefer it, but for scale size light rail, I would  consider smaller grain, or even just dirt on a logging/mining branchline....
Great stuff, keep it going please.
Otto

[chessie system fan]

Thanks.  Right now for the code 30 rail, the distance from the top of the tie plate to the top of the rail is .662mm. The code 25 is .562mm.

Up next is a turnout, but I need to order more rail before I can complete one. 

[Chris333]

Someone in the Nn3 group is doing code 30 rail by etching in the web.

[peteski]

Someone in the Nn3 group is doing code 30 rail by etching in the web.

Does that men they take rectangular 0.030" tall  wire and etch both sides for the web, or are they complete rails made by double-side etching flat sheet into rails?

[Chris333]

Double etch a flat sheet.