General Tire Akron - Original Plant Build

[SAH]

Perhaps if I start a build thread I'll finally finish this thing.

Here's my progress to date.


Here's the prototype I'm building.  Mine is a mirror image of course.


To catch up to this point:  https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=40799.msg639154#msg639154

The brown block behind the Admin Bldg. was the original plant and is the next build phase.  Borrowing @Chris333 beautiful image flip, I've marked the original plant outline in yellow.


Sometimes we get lucky.  Here's a beautiful image of the original plant (after what was probably the first expansion actually) I found on Summit Memories.  Akron is in Summit County.


The goal is to add the original plant to what is already built, finish off some details on the existing build and get the whole structure to another level detail-wise.  A lot of ideas are bouncing around in my old brain right now.  I'm itching to give them a try.

[DirtyD79]

Looks like you're already pretty well along. Also, that's a great way to make a wall corner work for you rather than against you.

[SAH]

Also, that's a great way to make a wall corner work for you rather than against you.

When originally built it served that purpose exactly.  In the current layout config, not so much.  A pain to light and place a backdrop, but it still works OK.

Since the windows on the plant expansion (already built) did not match up well with anything on the market I elected to draw them on vellum, making the windows one of the layers.


The original factory uses more traditional windows structures.


I built an HO scale model of the B&O Akron Jct enginehouse for a local modeler and in the process really dug into Tichey window and door castings for the first time.  I liked 'em and decided they would work well for General.


Since I'm not printing the windows this time, determining the final window size became the first task.  Essentially design the structure around them.  While not an exact match I think the result captures enough of the proportions to call them good.  The prototype structure is long gone anyway, so who's gonna know.



Other window configurations are required but you get the idea.  I'm drawing the building elevations now, so I'll shortly know how many windows I have to make.  Hint:  Lots.

[btrain]

That’s great looking structure, Steve. I apologize if I’ve asked you this before, but what did you use for the brick sheets, and also the corners blend seamlessly together. I’ve seen other paper and card-stock modelers use water color paints to hide any mini white tears on the edges, but I see absolutely no hint of that on this building.

[SAH]

That’s great looking structure, Steve. I apologize if I’ve asked you this before, but what did you use for the brick sheets, and also the corners blend seamlessly together. I’ve seen other paper and card-stock modelers use water color paints to hide any mini white tears on the edges, but I see absolutely no hint of that on this building.

Thanks Brian.  I used Evans Design Brickworks to print the brick sheet on matte photo paper for the General Model.  For the enginehouse I drew the tile pattern and printed it on better quality gray construction paper - Think scrapbookers supplies.  The original structure was board and batten siding.  Some kind of tile, enameled perhaps, was applied before the end of steam.

For the brick structure I used colored pencil to hide the white edge of the photo paper.  I tried markers initially but the ink bled into the printed brick and looked awful.

[SAH]

I finished the test elevation after lunch, printed it out and taped it to the mockup.  Not bad.  After some tweaks and more thought on making the artwork fit a layer cut sequence I can start choosing materials.  Then I'll have to relearn how to use the x-y cutter.  It has been at least 3 years since I did the existing model.   

[wm3798]

Fantastic!

[SAH]

Thanks Lee.

This morning I began pawing through my sheet goods for possibilities and came upon this remnant.  The brick is printed on gray Canson art paper.  Same pattern and color as the brick to the right. I'm thinking the slight contrast might give a sense of time passage.

[bbussey]

Perhaps if I start a build thread I'll finally finish this thing.

That's the primary reason I post to my layout page in Facebook.  Gives more incentive to finish.

[SAH]

It took a few passes to relearn the x-y cutter ins and outs but relearn I did.  The basics anyway.  Now to improve the cut quality.
Here's one section of the base sheet.  I'm using Model Brickyard to print the paper stock.  Great program for this kind of thing.  I need to keep playing with color though.  So far my test sheets are a little too purple for my taste.

[SAH]

A different brick color and pattern printed on three different colored sheets.  Not so evident in the photo but the dark gray sheet to the right looks pretty close.  However, I'm not 100% satisfied it's good enough quite yet.

[SAH]

After discovering my window openings were a bit tight I reworked the drawing and printed all three sections for a final fit check.  I think I've hit upon the cutter settings to get a nice clean corner cut.  I now must start thinking seriously about the backer layer since I'm using 3D window frames this time, rather than 2D print on vellum.

[SAH]

Here's one of the sections fresh off the cutting table.  The transfer mat is slightly sticky, but not too sticky.  A fine line for certain.  The section wall has been separated from the mat.


Now that I have successfully cut three sections I started on the next level back.  It's .050" matt board.  The cutter is a pretty tough machine but this sheet thickness is a bit much for it.  I suppose with some experimentation I could get clean, complete cuts but letting the cutter mark the cut locations and give me a head start to do so manually is a good trade off.


All three sections cut and ready for final prep.


Finishing the matt board cuts by hand introduces some error in the opening dims.  I give each section a good soaking with Matte finish spray bomb, then use a file and if necessary a hobby knife to clean up the openings, test fitting the windows as I go.


It was at this point I realized the windows will need glass.  Ugh.  Printing the windows on vellum did away with this requirement.  But we must suffer for our art, no?  In any event the next step was to paint the windows and the edge of the window openings.


Almost to the point where it looks like something!

[Sokramiketes]

Consider cutting the window grid, on the backing board, with straight lines up and down.  A full grid of lines instead of window opening squares.

You'll get a knife blad traveling straight and 90 degree corners.

The same clean out step, with an X-acto.

And your brick overlay covers the extra scribe lines that are on the wall surface at the end. 

[Dwight in Toronto]

Please forgive my ignorance, but what is this “cutter” device? 

I recently did free-hand Xacto cuts to make a few door and window openings in styrene as part of my first ever scratchbuild attempt (on an N scale box cab; build thread is a few posts down). 

The few I did turned out ok, but the number of openings shown here, and the clean, repeatable cuts, are on another level.  Anxious to learn!