What caulk to use to glue cork roadbed to 1" foam?

[Bill H]

Hi;
Getting ready to glue some cork roadbed to some 1" foam. I have always used PL-300 to glue foam to the framework, and I have used to use plain DAP caulk to glue cork roadbed to plywood. Thoughts? Which is preferable for gluing the cork to the foam?

I have always liked the ability to shift roadbed when it was glued down to plywood with plain DAP caulk. I suspect that cork glued to foam with PL-300 might not be so easy to shift - hence my question.

Kind regards,
Bill

[mu26aeh]

Personally, I just use Elmer's white or school glue for cork to foam application

[Rossford Yard]

Or wood glue.

[MK]

I have always used the water based DAP adhesive caulk with no issues.  Cork roadbed to foam and even track to cork roadbed.  Comes in white or clear.  Easy cleanup with water.  I suspect much easier to remove than PL300.  PL300 is polyurethane adhesive and I've used it to glue landscaping masonry.  A bit of an overkill.   

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwik-Seal-5-5-oz-White-Kitchen-and-Bath-Adhesive-Caulk-18873/100040837

[Dave V]

I always use Titebond yellow carpenter's glue for this.

[mmagliaro]

DAP 230 "Premium Elasotmeric Sealant"... in gray.  It sticks to foam core, foam or cork, wood, plastic, and stays slightly flexible after years in place so it doesn't crack.  It is safe to use on foam board.   I also use it to glue the track to the roadbed, where I like the gray shades because it hides any slight "misses" you might have in the ballast.

[GGNInNScale]

I use the cheapest white caulk in the big tubes (not the gun size!).  Easy to change things when you need to...

[mike_lawyer]

I just use wood glue.  Works great.

[Steveruger45]

I’ve used both cheap white caulk from the dollar store and yellow wood glue.  Both have worked and held up just fine

[chuck geiger]

I always use Titebond yellow carpenter's glue for this.

Yes

[Dave V]

To follow up on my post; consider this. You may have reason to change your trackage at some future date. You want a glue that won't hydrate enough to move when you soak the ballast, but you also don't want something so permanent that you destroy everything within a few inches of the centerline to remove the roadbed.

I'm 6 years into the HOn3 RGS and I already know I'll be moving track again once I've built the Burnett & Clifton coal pockets for Rico. With the Titebond (I use Titebond II), I can get a putty knife under the roadbed and get it out of there without laying waste to the surrounding earth.

[bbunge]

....
I'm 6 years into the HOn3 RGS and I already know I'll be moving track again once I've built the Burnett & Clifton coal pockets for Rico. With the Titebond (I use Titebond II), I can get a putty knife under the roadbed and get it out of there without laying waste to the surrounding earth.

I use a X-acto or similar knife to cut through the cork into roughly 1/4x1/4 or so squares.  The putty knife will lift off the squares quite easily, although it can be a bit messy.

[Bill H]

Thanks guys for the input. I like the idea of being able to shift track if it becomes necessary, so I am going to test a few of these options.
Kind regards,
Bill

[jpwisc]

I always use Titebond yellow carpenter's glue for this.

Same here! It holds great.

[robert3985]

I always use Titebond yellow carpenter's glue for this.

I also use Titebond glue for gluing cork roadbed to my splined Masonite subroadbed, to industrial and yard areas that have plywood subroadbed, and, when I built several 6' club modules using 2" foam as both the subroadbed and scenery base.  Works excellently in all three applications.

However, I don't plan on changing my track plans since I build my design my track plans as close to the prototype as I can in the space I have.  But, in the couple of times I've chosen to add a turnout and spur, or improve my old yard ladder, it wasn't a problem removing the original cork roadbed, re-sanding down to the subroadbed, gluing in the new cork...then sanding it to get rid of any humps, bumps or ski jumps...just like I do when laying cork roadbed the first time.

I use Titebond II, which has a short set-up time instead of Titebond III, which is engineered to have a much longer set-up time.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore