Walthers turntable, code 80 or 55?

[Tom4884]

I'm working on installing a Walther's 130' turntable and was wondering if anyone knew if the bridge track is code 80 or code 55?  I'm using code 80 track for the roundhouse stalls and the ends of the rails are too high to match up with the turntable.  I have checked the documentation on the turntable and it makes no mention of what track it uses.

Thanks,  Tom

[peteski]

If there is no mention of the rail height then I would say 99% it is code 80 (the N scale standard track).  I have one from the 1st run, but it is packed away.    Someone else will likely chime in.

[Mark5]

If Walther's website is to be believed,

https://www.walthers.com/motorized-130-turntable-130-39-6m-length-typical-of-bigger-tables-built-from-1900s-on

the last line under Product Information says "Comes with Code 80 rail installed on bridge"

Mark

[nickelplate759]

Not sure how you installed yours, but if I remember correctly you need to remove some of the ties from under the connecting tracks so just the bare rails rest on the edge of the pit.

[Tom4884]

https://www.walthers.com/motorized-130-turntable-130-39-6m-length-typical-of-bigger-tables-built-from-1900s-on

the last line under Product Information says "Comes with Code 80 rail installed on bridge"

Mark

Thanks,  guess I missed that somehow.   I removed the ties from the portion of the track the lays on the edge of the turntable,  will try gluing the ties down between the turntable and roundhouse.

Thanks,  Tom

[CBQ Fan]

I use code 80 with my table. Atlas code 80.

[C855B]

I'm working on installing a Walther's 130' turntable and was wondering if anyone knew if the bridge track is code 80 or code 55? ...

Code 80. Looking right at it.

[jdcolombo]

Yep.  Code 80.

Remove ties from entry/exit tracks on the pit surround and glue directly to pit surround.  If you use Code 55 track, shim the rails with .020 styrene to match the height of the table rail (the .005 difference in height won't matter, but an .025 difference does).

John C.

[pedro]

This seems like a good place to ask if anyone’s ever successfully done a rail/deck transplant on one of these. While I’m fully prepared to shim as necessary to code 40, (I’ve already recessed the pit so that it’s flush with the surrounding cork surface,) it would sure look a whole lot better to have code 40 on the bridge. I’ve yet to try messing with it, but thought I’d ask.

[C855B]

This seems like a good place to ask if anyone’s ever successfully done a rail/deck transplant on one of these. While I’m fully prepared to shim as necessary to code 40, (I’ve already recessed the pit so that it’s flush with the surrounding cork surface,) it would sure look a whole lot better to have code 40 on the bridge. I’ve yet to try messing with it, but thought I’d ask.

Same thought here, but the TT is so far down the list as layout projects go it may never see a roundtuit. 

[robert3985]

I'm definitely going to replace the Code80 trackage, as well as the ties on my Walther's first-run turntable, but...it's down on my list of projects as I don't have my future engine facilities planned yet.

I was planning on using Micro Engineering Code55 Bridge Track since the engine facilities I'm going to replicate will be the Ogden roundhouse/turntable, coaling tower and ash pit...which serviced large steam engines such as Big Boys & Challengers on trackage that would be considered to be "heavily trafficked".  For me, Code40 trackage goes where the Big Boys wouldn't have run.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[wm3798]

Definitely code 80


If you add walk boards between the gauge you don't see it.  I shimmed up the fan tracks, which were c55.  Worked fine.

Lee

[mplsjct]

Micro Engineering code 70 track is the best match I have found for the track Walthers used, I have one installed on my layout and there is absolutely no drop or raise where the two come together.

perhaps Walthers thought this was the best compromise to please most N scalers

[sschnabl]

I thought the same as you, that this is probably c70.  However, I took my digital caliper to one of the rail ends, and it measured 0.080.  I'm wondering if one could just unsolder the two wires that power the bridge, slide out the rails, then slide in the rail of your choice.  The only issue I foresee (other than needing a steady hand with the soldering iron) would be if the rail foot were too wide or too narrow for the plastic spikes holding it in place.

Scott

[pedro]

I thought the same as you, that this is probably c70.  However, I took my digital caliper to one of the rail ends, and it measured 0.080.  I'm wondering if one could just unsolder the two wires that power the bridge, slide out the rails, then slide in the rail of your choice.  The only issue I foresee (other than needing a steady hand with the soldering iron) would be if the rail foot were too wide or too narrow for the plastic spikes holding it in place.

Scott

I just had a close look at mine, and the rails will definitely slide out easily after unsoldering the wires. Complete deck removal seems to be a no-go without complete disassembly to get at the screws from underneath, not to mention the fact that the entire deck is molded as one piece, walkways, ties and all. I’m afraid of upsetting the integrity of the whole thing.
I’m leaning toward “discretion the better part of valor” approach and just shimming up to the existing rail. In my case, wanting to go to code 40, I have concerns about the gauge being off, and the ability of the “spikes” to hold code 40 rail. Will have time to think on it some more before I need to worry about it.