Using 3D printing resin for projects and kitbashing

[Lemosteam]

For a while now, I have been using a small vial of translucent black 3D resin to repair prints, fill gaps and even large holes.

Whatever container you use, be sure that it does not let light in. In my case I epoxied a magnet to the bottom, placed the cap on and used shrink tubing to stop any light. The magnet helps in keeping the vial from tipping over and the Altoids box helps with that too. I also shake the viral before each use.



The benefits are great as a quick hit with the UV fob solidifies thin layers very quickly.

Here is an image of gap filling around the edges of the inset door.


Here, I am filling the square bell hole in a Minitrix boiler. Just behind that and in front of the new sand dome, you can see where I have completely filled the large 4mm long x 2.5mm wide hole across the boiler shell left from snipping off the original Minitrix sand dome. Took many layers and I used tape on the inside (clay would have been better IMHO) to puddle the resin in the open hole.  You can also see how I was able to sand the area smooth to restore the original curvature of the boiler using my handy dandy Ultrasonic toothbrush head sander.

I am sharing because I have found this a quite useful and reliable tool. There are some plastics and metals that the resin will not adhere to, so don’t assume it will, but as a filler, it’s much better than waiting for putty to dry and shrink. The fills below took less that 20 minutes from fill to sanding.

I have given thought to offering these similarly to when Max made his linguistic black gold, but zi would need to buy some vials. Let me know of any interest, an I will investigate further.

[mark.hinds]

How does this compare with using CA adhesive, and then sprinkling baking soda on it?  (Needs to be sanded after). 

MH

[Lemosteam]

How does this compare with using CA adhesive, and then sprinkling baking soda on it?  (Needs to be sanded after). 

MH

Hi Mark, never tried that method.  Could you share an example?

[AlwaysSolutions]

FWIW I use an old orange prescription pill bottle to store the resin I use for this same purpose. They're orange to keep UV light from potentially degrading the efficacy of the medicines inside.  (my day job is working for a large pharmacy)

Incidentally, regarding baking soda - I actually add a sprinkle of baking soda to a drop of resin to make it more malleable when applying in certain situations.  It sands great after curing, too.  I have not done extensive testing on this so I'm not prepared to say it's the best thing since sliced bread, however it has worked really well for the tiny areas I've used it on to fill holes or build up areas.  I don't think it adds strength, but it sure does make it easier to use as a curable putty instead of a flowing liquid.

Cheers -Mike

[peteski]

Baking soda is basically used as CA accelerator and possibly a filler. This unusual method of setting CA glue has been around for some years, and some still use it today.

I would discourage from using that method.  Baking soda is hygroscopic. If some of it is left exposed after the glue sets, it will absorb moisture (especially in humid climates), then the individual grains will dissolve and start oozing out of the glue joint.  It is messy and will ruin your model.  Yet, I see modelers insisting on doing that when there are actual CA accelerators readily available, specifically designed to do the job.  And no ooze.  If the CA needs to be thickened, use an inert filler like plastic shavings, microbaloons or talcum powder (along with the accelerator).

[Lemosteam]

One, I would NEVER use CA as a filler, as clumsy as I am, the model would end up a frigging mess. I actually hate CA with a passion, but it is unavoidable.

@peteski, what is this accelerator you speak of and how do I apply it in a teeny tiny location like at the end of a grab going into a tiny hole?

@Angus Shops below is an image of the hole I filled above. It is about 1/8” wide by 3/32” long. Again I used tape inside, applied resin from the outside for the first several layers, peeled off the tape, hardened the inside (yes there were leaks, clay would have been better), and then finished and sanded the outside, all within 15 minutes.

[Chris333]

I have a 100 pack of these little whisker tips for CA. The hole is so small that I leave it with the cap off and it never dries up. You can point it right at a grab iron and squeeze, watch the CA go up the tube and place just a small dot.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124690597902

I also keep a 16oz. bottle of CA in the fridge to keep refilling my small bottles.   

[peteski]

CA accelerator is a chemical (liquid) whihc instantly sets CA glue.  I couldn't model without it (as I;m a CA glue addict).

There are multiple brands out there (just google "super glue accelerator").  Some brands are more aggressive than others, and some contain acetone which will affect paint and plastic.  I prefer Bob Smith Industries (BSI) brand accelerator.  It has almost no odor and it doesn't melt paint or plastic. it also evaporates leaving pretty much no residue.

As for applicators, for applying tiny amounts of glue I I made my own using sewing needles with the top of the eye ground of, creating fork-like end.
I apply the accelerator using Micro-Brushes (they are disposable).



Unless I need a large amount of CA I never apply it from the bottle. I dispense a tiny amount in to a small cup then I dip the applicator in that.



If the above image looks familiar it is because it made to the banner images.

Not sure why you have such a hard time with CA glue.

[Lemosteam]

Oh, I have all kinds of applicators too, but my hands and fingers are huge and I struggle positioning parts, hoping the CA will at least grab, but of course it never does, and the part falls off taking the CA with it. If I try to use gravity to keep the part steady, invariably the tip of my applicator will grab the part and when
I pull the applicator away, of course, the part goes along for the ride. My blood is boiling just thinking about how often this happens to me.

I use an old piece of Mylar for my CA blob as I am using it. I just hate it.

[peteski]

That's why you like that JB Weld UV cure super glue.  It works like liquid accelerator, but ti is light waves. 

Sounds like you do lots of 3-handed gluing.  For that I usually stabilize the item I'm gluing things to (prop it up on the work bench), then in one hand hold in tweezers the part to be glued, apply some CA to it, then in the other hand I grab the accelerator soaked MicroBrush (which I prepared earlier and which is sitting on my workbench in a location that is easy to grab from), I then place the part to be glued on its final location on the model, then touch the MicroBrush very near where the glue is. The accelerator will then spread out on the surface eventually hitting the CA glue.

For things like stanchions, I use a needle applicator to apply CA to the hole in the walkway or to the post on the end of the stanchion), then I press the post on the end of the stanchion into the hole, then apply accelerator.

[mark.hinds]

Baking soda is basically used as CA accelerator and possibly a filler. This unusual method of setting CA glue has been around for some years, and some still use it today.

I would discourage from using that method.  Baking soda is hygroscopic. If some of it is left exposed after the glue sets, it will absorb moisture (especially in humid climates), then the individual grains will dissolve and start oozing out of the glue joint.  It is messy and will ruin your model.  Yet, I see modelers insisting on doing that when there are actual CA accelerators readily available, specifically designed to do the job.  And no ooze.  If the CA needs to be thickened, use an inert filler like plastic shavings, microbaloons or talcum powder (along with the accelerator).

Never had your "ooze" problem.  I just apply the CA to the hole (or whatever), dump the baking soda on the glue joint, and after a short interval, brush the extra off, and file down.  Here's an example, using CA to fill the holes in a plastic button I used to represent a hatch on the top of a 1/96 scale R/C submarine's sail (the black dots in the center).  The project has been on hold for over 10 years (due to lack of a place to test it), and no issues have occurred over that time period. 



However, your warning disturbs me, and perhaps just to be safe going forward, I should pick up a bottle of accelerator next time I visit the LHS. 

MH



MH

[peteski]

Never had your "ooze" problem.  I just apply the CA to the hole (or whatever), dump the baking soda on the glue joint, and after a short interval, brush the extra off, and file down.  Here's an example, using CA to fill the holes in a plastic button I used to represent a hatch on the top of a 1/96 scale R/C submarine's sail (the black dots in the center).  The project has been on hold for over 10 years (due to lack of a place to test it), and no issues have occurred over that time period. 

(image to be inserted in a few minutes)

However, your warning disturbs me, and perhaps just to be safe going forward, I should pick up a bottle of accelerator next time I visit the LHS. 

MH

I applaud you on you decision Mark.  If you live in a dry climate, you might not have problems, but why tempt faith?

Here are some examples (I have seen more baking soda/CA issues in my hobby travels).
https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/ca-glue-and-baking-soda-problems.344059/
https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/140535-superglue-and-baking-soda/

[Lemosteam]

If you read my original post, this resin is not the JB Weld, it’s printer resin which cures much faster. Plus I have it in abundance. The JB product was expensive for a 1 oz  tube, that is inside that huge handle.

[peteski]

If you read my original post, this resin is not the JB Weld, it’s printer resin which cures much faster. Plus I have it in abundance. The JB product was expensive for a 1 oz  tube, that is inside that huge handle.

Yes I read your description and understand the concept.  I guess I'm guilty of changing the topic slightly. I recall you mentioning in another thread about  JB Weld UV as being a God-sent for certain of you gluing tasks.

Going back to using CA as a filler is that when fully set, it becomes harder than the typical plastic or resin used for shells.  So when sanding, you will end up sanding more of the surrounding softer plastic than the CA-filled area.  But it takes time (hours) for CA to fully harden. If you sand shortly after it sets it is easily sandable.

BTW, I removed a small aluminum tube of JB Weld UV from that giant shell, and also trimmed the screw-on cap to something more manageable.