Converted an N scale Kato E8/9 to LokSound

[GGNInNScale]

Hi to all   I converted a Kato E8/9 from NCE N12A0 to LokSound Micro DCC Kato Direct Widebody.  I milled out the back of the frame to fit an 11x15mm OWS speaker with a custom made 3D printed case.  I clipped the two copper strips in the front and soldered wires from the truck posts to the copper strips.  Kapton tape was used to isolate the copper strips.  The other Kapton tape was used to hold things down while I soldered the connections.  I did not bother to remove it.  I used the 3mm LED from the LokSound kit.  No rear light.  I soldered the motor contacts to the PCB.  I loaded the dual 567 sound file from the ESU library.  I modified the extensive set of controls and sound files.  Sounds great- the new features of the LokProgrammer allow for "boosting" the bass, and cutting back the treble for better balance.  It pulls the 5 car set (NMRA weighted) with no problem up 2% grades.

[peteski]

Interesting install.

Looks like you made the speaker enclosure design for this install available in https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=57292.0

I'm curious why you went with a bit of a Frankenstein install using part of the original Kato pickup strips in the rear and hardwired the front truck pickups?  The decoder board is designed for retaining the iriginal pickup strips (for the front and rear truck pickup).

[GGNInNScale]

Hi   I have found the Kato pickups to be pretty good (HO and N scale).  But, several of my newer Kato units have issues with consistent contacts in the center area under the decoder- either from a curved decoder PCB (it does not take much) or slightly warped strips.  I had a devil of a time with a P42 last year- gave up and hard wired it.   I did cut the bronze strips as you can see to the right side.  Then, wired the strip ends to the decoder pads and the truck vertical pins.  With the new speaker, it is quite loud!  Had to turn it down a few times...

[peteski]

I guess I'm still not understanding the reason for clipping the front of those strips and using wires.  The photo does not seem to show anything in that area which would require clearance.  The strips lay down flat (like like they do at the rear).

[GGNInNScale]

Hi again  I changed the wording a bit.  It was not for clearance, but for solid contact to the PCB.  This is where I had issues with the contact between the PCB and the bronze strips.  I had a P42 (new) with this problem with an NCE decoder, and the ESU LokSound that I have installed now.  I had a Kato F7 A/B pair with the same issues.  So, as Louie Anderson said "I rewired it"...

[peteski]

Hi again  I changed the wording a bit.  It was not for clearance, but for solid contact to the PCB.  This is where I had issues with the contact between the PCB and the bronze strips.  I had a P42 (new) with this problem with an NCE decoder, and the ESU LokSound that I have installed now.  I had a Kato F7 A/B pair with the same issues.  So, as Louie Anderson said "I rewired it"...

Ok, thanks.  I have done installs of this type of decoder problem free. But I do use the T-shaped snap to  securely clamp the decoder to the motor cradle.  I guess that puts more pressure on the contact points.  But I have also sometimes soldered short pieces of wire from the uncut clip to the decoder.

In this P42 the blue dots is where solder would be and purple "wires" are also shown soldered to the Digitrax decoder's bridge rectifier diodes (since this decoder does not have track pickup pads on the top of the PC board.

[Sokramiketes]

I only seem to have problems at the motor to decoder connection, and solder at the gray t-shaped snap on all E8/E7/PA installs. 

I'm surprised at the problem with the long rail contact strips?

[Jbub]

I only seem to have problems at the motor to decoder connection, and solder at the gray t-shaped snap on all E8/E7/PA installs. 

I'm surprised at the problem with the long rail contact strips?

I did with some F units. If you look closely, there are little bumps on the strip that contact the decoder or lightboard in dc units. Even with this bump facing up (as I believe it should) it would sometimes lose contact, so I added a slight bend to ensure proper contact.

[GGNInNScale]

JBub- I agree with you.  I had this problem on several engines.  Seems like a good approach, but your only need a few 100 millionths of an inch... I never had good luck putting back the little gray clips- usually they would simply pop out.  So, I solder the motor contacts and work arounds for the main contact strips depending on my mood at the time.

[peteski]

Looks like modelers have different experiences with this type of install.  The way I see it, the T-shaped clip is important for reliable contact, and they seem to stay in for me.

[woodone]

i Just did a KATO E8 and did have problems with the decoder making contact with the strips. those punch marks on the strips are not much to make a good contact with the decoder. I used the clip to hold the decoder down plus some Kapton tape. If your clip does niot hold try a new one.!