Track Cleaning - Again

[MVW]

FWIW: A few months back, I switched from rubbing alcohol to mineral spirits as a cleaning agent, and started using some light touches of graphite, as mentioned above. Operation is much better, and stays better much, much longer than when I used alcohol and no graphite. In fact, I haven't had to clean the rails again, except for some very little spot cleaning.

I'm becoming a firm believer in mineral spirits/graphite ... but, you know, YMMV. 

Jim

[Chris333]

I use graphite also, but I wonder if the more the rails are polished the less it helps?

[Bendtracker1]

I'll jump in and say this.
I use to use IPA and was always re-cleaning the tracks and wheels.
I did finally break down and gave the NO-OX a try, but the results were iffy.  After about 2 months things started to stutter again.
Knowing it was basically a grease and even though I thoroughly cleaned it off per the instructions, things were back to running erratically.

After reading about the Polar vs Nonpolar stuff, I switched to using a contact cleaner, specifically the WD40 Contact cleaner (but I've also tried the CRC-226 but when it ran out, I picked up the WD40 version).  This worked much better IMO, but still not great.

I would also go as far to say, stay away from using Mineral Spirits as it's meant to thin enamel based paints, which are oil based.
You can feel the oil in the Mineral Spirits.

About the same time I saw where Scott Thorton posted a video where he used a section of flex track that hadn't been cleaned.  He placed his sound loco on it and it ran, but very erratically, without stopping the video or cleaning the track, he applied some 4B graphite with a couple of quick, light wipes and tried running his loco again.  It ran flawlessly.  Unfortunately he took the video down as he got a insulting comments about it.

So seeing this, I gave it a try.  Without cleaning the tracks I wiped a small section of track with the graphite and ran a loco.
It stuttered until it got to the section where I applied the graphite, then it ran nice and smooth.  Getting past the treated section, it still ran good.
I'm assuming because it still had some graphite on the wheels?

I've been applying graphite ever since, and not in a heavy application.  I lightly applied it small sections, mainly around turnouts and start running.
If I have not ran a train in sometime, I have notices some stuttering, but nothing like before.  To which I have attributed that it's more likely dust that has settled on the layout since it's in the basement and I have an unfinished ceiling.  By using the dust monkeys, I think it's solved my issues.  Also the I feel that the graphite does not attract the dust because it's dry and not wet or greasy.


So what I do now is I DUST the rails by means of pushing an old gondola equipped with a Woodland Scenics Dust Monkey.


I also use and old ROCO track cleaning car and add a light amount of graphite where the pad contacts the rails.


Then place a locos or two between those cars and run it around a few laps and I'm good to go.


For spurs, I just apply a quick light swipe of graphite and call it good.

If I really need to clean the tracks, like after working on Ballasting or Scenery, I'll scrub the rails down using the Contact cleaner and Rail Buddy from Woodland Scenics then, wipe up any excess and re-apply the graphite.

So far this has worked for me, but as they always say, YMMV
 

[Dwight in Toronto]

I’m between layouts at present, but have a 16’ oval of Kato Unitrack (and a 2nd oval inside that one) that I use to test LokSound installs, fine tune rolling stock, and to keep me involved, interested and amused.  Well over a year ago I tried swiping with the softest graphite pencil I could find, and I dare say that it does seem to almost eliminate track cleaning, and delivers pretty flawless dcc/sound performance. 

[Doug G.]

The best abrasive type cleaner is the yellow Perfect block. It's more like an ink eraser. not too abrasive. I have been using one since 1964 and recently had to buy a new one as the original was finally worn too small.

I almost always agreed with Linn Westcott on model railroading matters but not on the No-Ox issue. I will never put that, or hair clipper oil, or anything else like that on rails.

Doug

[tehachapifan]

I will also add that all "brightboys" are not created equal (if referring to all eraser-shaped track cleaners as brightboys). I still use one (I think an actual Brightboy) that is probably over 30 years old and goes all the way back to my HO days, because I have not been able to find one that works anywhere near as good. It is probably less than half its original thickness now and the corners are all worn way down. I purchased a new one a couple years ago (not sure of brand) but it had a slightly different texture and feel. It actually must've laid down some kind of residue on the track as trains wouldn't run at all afterwards. And so, I continue using the 30-year-old one, as trains run flawlessly after using that one.

...funny reputation about brightboys though. There are so many folks that are convinced they scratch the track. I guess I can't say for sure that they don't (or any more or less than anything else), but I'm still yet to find anything else that makes the rail as slippery-smooth afterwards. I've seen washers getting recommended over brighboys, but it sure seems like this would potentially cause more damage to track than a brightboy would. Plus, isn't the railhead somewhat rounded? How does a washer hit anything but a very narrow section of it then (assuming the washer is spanning both rails)? Also, I've tried attaching brightboys on decicated cleaning cars but I find that nothing quite compares to elbow grease.

[Scott1984]

I am so glad I did not ask about this subject. I was about to and decided to search first. It looks like a very controversial subject at times. Is the graphite still working for you guys?

[peteski]

I am so glad I did not ask about this subject. I was about to and decided to search first. It looks like a very controversial subject at times. Is the graphite still working for you guys?

 This particular thread was started less than a month ago. It likely is for those who favor that method.  Sounds like all respondents have well established track care methods.

[Scott1984]

Sounds like people are using what works for their situation. I wanted to see what was working for folks. My layout is in the garage and does not take too long for the track to get dusty.

[peteski]

Sounds like people are using what works for their situation. I wanted to see what was working for folks. My layout is in the garage and does not take too long for the track to get dusty.

There is no magic dust-repellent for track.  It will accumulate, especially if whatever cleaning solution leaves an oily film.  Regardless of what you hear about miracle cleaners/protectants (especially in your situation), you will have to periodically clean the track.  There is plenty of wide-ranging advice in this thread. It's up you you to select one or more methods and go with it and see how it works for you.

[Scott1984]

That is what I am going to do. Right now I have been wiping it off with IPA. I know that is not the best plan, just using because that is what I had. Might try the graphite method, would like to see how that works out. Thanks!!

[Chris333]

According to what I read IPA will attract dirt and dust.  Acetone is better.  I still use IPA sometimes though. 

[peteski]

According to what I read IPA will attract dirt and dust.  Acetone is better.  I still use IPA sometimes though. 

I don't know what authority is writing this "stuff". IPA should leave no residue at all (it is alcohol with some water depending on the IPA strenght), so how can it attract dust to a clean bare-metal surface?

Now if you use some sort of 70% rubbing alcohol which might have some additives (like skin lubricant), those additives will be left behind when the alcohol and water evaporate.

[Scott1984]

Hey Chris,I have seen the same info on that. Do you have any issues with the Acetone? You said that you had used graphite, how is that working for you?

[Chris333]

Alcohol is a polar solvent so it attracts dust.

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I think the biggest thing to do is polish the rails. Go down to the finest sandpaper and then rub with metal.

Graphite works, but I have no idea how to measure how well anything works.